Well, I finally blew up... Need advice
06-17-2010, 04:51 PM
#151
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1st so it hops into the meat into 2nd and 2nd gear all the way to 7700 so you don't bounce of the rev limiter before your tires start hooking again.
06-17-2010, 04:52 PM
#152
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what about for the track though? cross the line in 3rd gear i hope lol. my trans hates me.. i get random mis shifts all the time at the track. i think my car in general just hates me.
hmm.. how much psi did you push the 20g up to? i know hahn says their supposedly good to 30 but im sure theyre full of ****.
hmm.. how much psi did you push the 20g up to? i know hahn says their supposedly good to 30 but im sure theyre full of ****.
Turbo lsj car you would want to do it for the first two gears and then stretch it out in third if you are at the track as well.
1st so it hops into the meat into 2nd and 2nd gear all the way to 7700 so you don't bounce of the rev limiter before your tires start hooking again.
1st so it hops into the meat into 2nd and 2nd gear all the way to 7700 so you don't bounce of the rev limiter before your tires start hooking again.
Last edited by ralliartist; 06-17-2010 at 04:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
06-17-2010, 05:10 PM
#154
Aftermarket sleeves if you can afford/aquire them, I have no idea who manufactures anything off the shelf anymore, been a while since I owned a Cobalt. When you have the sleeves installed, I'm sure this will be a given but just in case, make sure they are honed with a torque plate, call around and see if any local machine shops have an ecotec torque plate, not many do. Whoever's pistons you end up installing, make sure you use their recommended clearances to a tee. Also shoot for the ring manufacturer's recommended rings and gaps. I've used OEM bearings on the rods and mains to GM's specs with no issues, be sure to check those especially if you end up line honing the mains.
From the way you said it blew, you for sure popped a sleeve. Probably the side of #1 or #4, mine was the right rear corner of #1 sleeve
06-17-2010, 05:19 PM
#155
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fair enough either way there's still power up there with a decent sized turbo. I don't want to completely hook up I like my tranny lol
06-17-2010, 06:34 PM
#156
oh crap.. i forgot, should i stick with the ngkbkr7e's? or should i go another range colder? if the turbo is good for it, im going to run 25 psi and ill probably be in the range of 400-420 whp.. i just dont know if i should stick with those plugs.
06-17-2010, 08:00 PM
#157
Well after all of this talk about Bates Engineering I finally decided to get in touch with him and talk to him about a block with forged sleeves. I sent him an e-mail. I'm kinda unable to give him a call at the moment due to my working hours, but hopefully we can do business through e-mail.
Does anybody know if he responds to emails often?
Does anybody know if he responds to emails often?
06-17-2010, 08:16 PM
#158
Well after all of this talk about Bates Engineering I finally decided to get in touch with him and talk to him about a block with forged sleeves. I sent him an e-mail. I'm kinda unable to give him a call at the moment due to my working hours, but hopefully we can do business through e-mail.
Does anybody know if he responds to emails often?
Does anybody know if he responds to emails often?
06-19-2010, 09:48 PM
#160
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I think he just wanted to know if he should go colder or continue running bkr7e's since he'll be runnin 25 psi
I dont have experience with that much boost but I know other just dropped the gap down a bit and continued runnin bkr7es
I dont have experience with that much boost but I know other just dropped the gap down a bit and continued runnin bkr7es
Last edited by Stiner; 06-19-2010 at 09:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
06-19-2010, 11:44 PM
#162
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I ran 8's for awhile when i was pushing 22-23psi on the S256 i was reading the ground strap of the plug to make my determination.
It takes a few sets of plugs to read them properly. The way i do it is throw in a new set of 7's and run a few high boost runs then pull th plugs and look at the ground strap you want the purple/bluish mark just rounding the turn on the ground strap and not really going all the way to the threads. if it goes all the way to the base of the threads then you need 8's
also keep you gap tight, real tight i was gapped @ 26 i tried 30 then 28 and it will still blow out spark when it was really cold outside. i gapped em to 26 and never had a problem again.
also take a piece of sand paper and run it against the bottom of the ground strap a cpl times to remove any burs or pieces hanging down from production. they can creat hot spots and act like glow plugs. this will also ensure your gap is true.
hope this helps some.
It takes a few sets of plugs to read them properly. The way i do it is throw in a new set of 7's and run a few high boost runs then pull th plugs and look at the ground strap you want the purple/bluish mark just rounding the turn on the ground strap and not really going all the way to the threads. if it goes all the way to the base of the threads then you need 8's
also keep you gap tight, real tight i was gapped @ 26 i tried 30 then 28 and it will still blow out spark when it was really cold outside. i gapped em to 26 and never had a problem again.
also take a piece of sand paper and run it against the bottom of the ground strap a cpl times to remove any burs or pieces hanging down from production. they can creat hot spots and act like glow plugs. this will also ensure your gap is true.
hope this helps some.
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; 06-20-2010 at 12:09 AM.
06-20-2010, 12:14 AM
#163
I ran 8's for awhile when i was pushing 22-23psi on the S256 i was reading the ground strap of the plug to make my determination.
It takes a few sets of plugs to read them properly. The way i do it is throw in a new set of 7's and run a few high boost runs then pull th plugs and look at the ground strap you want the purple/bluish mark just rounding the turn on the ground strap and not really going all the way to the threads. if it goes all the way to the base of the threads then you need 8's
also keep you gap tight, real tight i was gapped @ 26 i tried 30 then 28 and it will still blow out spark when it was really cold outside. i gapped em to 26 and never had a problem again.
also take a piece of sand paper and run it against the bottom of the ground strap a cpl times to remove any burs or pieces hanging down from production. they can creat hot spots and act like glow plugs. this will also ensure your gap is true.
hope this helps some.
It takes a few sets of plugs to read them properly. The way i do it is throw in a new set of 7's and run a few high boost runs then pull th plugs and look at the ground strap you want the purple/bluish mark just rounding the turn on the ground strap and not really going all the way to the threads. if it goes all the way to the base of the threads then you need 8's
also keep you gap tight, real tight i was gapped @ 26 i tried 30 then 28 and it will still blow out spark when it was really cold outside. i gapped em to 26 and never had a problem again.
also take a piece of sand paper and run it against the bottom of the ground strap a cpl times to remove any burs or pieces hanging down from production. they can creat hot spots and act like glow plugs. this will also ensure your gap is true.
hope this helps some.
06-20-2010, 12:33 AM
#164
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when it pops/backfires at the top of the revs at WOT kinda like cuts out if its really bad. but usually just kinda misses a beat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiMM2S0aADM
i actually found this just searching for a sec, touches on the subject but shows a plug at almost optimal heat range. perfect is when the color just rounds the bend.
i actually found this just searching for a sec, touches on the subject but shows a plug at almost optimal heat range. perfect is when the color just rounds the bend.
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; 06-20-2010 at 12:33 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
07-02-2010, 10:24 PM
#170
http://www.sterilite.com/SelectProdu...=182§ion=1 this is the EXACT conatainer i used. i bought mine from walmart. and then i drilled holes all around the top of the lid, used 20 zip ties and zip tied it shut and then duct taped the **** out of the top half : ) for packing, i bought like 4 newspapers.. used all of those and then i bought 2 rolls of the bubble wrap and wrapped everything. i made sure nothing was going to break thats for sure lol. any other questions, feel free to ask!
07-02-2010, 10:58 PM
#172
you mean did i send ray my short block? no i didnt. my block is toast lol so i bought one of his. apparently he has brand new blocks so i took one off his hands for $300 but altogether i paid 3 grand including shipping. its alot of money but now im going to have piece of mind and when i go to the track, ill be able to finish in 3rd gear instead of 4th.
