2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Who can make adapters for us? (Pic inside)

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Old 07-02-2006, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by M88ArRamadi
I'm not saying you have to run 30+ psi.......but who settles with the bare minimum? If I had a blower that was capable of producing 30+PSI I would do what I had to to get that boost!! That's all I ment by that.


If you had a blower that was capable of 30+ would you keep the levels at <20psi? I know I wouldn't.
yeah i wasnt sure on exactly what you meant. and i think im more concerned about making power not boost.
Old 07-02-2006, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by black06ss
yeah i wasnt sure on exactly what you meant. and i think im more concerned about making power not boost.
if you want to make power and not boost then you should think about pistons, then cams, and HP TUNERS. after you have done all that then you can do something about boost to make HP.

Your statement contrdicts itself. YOu want a whipple to make HP but not boost? it has to boost to make HP for you cause that is what it does. Hope I have helped you in planning your engine. Pistons are good for about 30HP and you are very safe for the future. you have a motor that you can tweak up to 600HP with head work and boost. no other way to get that kind of power. Exhaust and intake is just a matter of free flowing the engine. those dont make hp. it allows the motor to produce more.
Old 07-02-2006, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ssnipes
I would need facts not "would probably". It maybe true but you could be setting up for a dissappointment. shouldnt be that hard to see specs from both.

I would want to know the following

what is the max CFM of both?
What is the throttle body bore done for each when bench flow testing?
What is the max RPM for both blowers?

that fact is I know what the Stock blower can do. how is it that the Whipple is better as you say? Are there any disadvantages? Disadvantage would be that it may not have a by-pass valve so the car is under boost 100% of the time (gas mileage will get real bad).

I have not researched the Whipple at all so help me out and dont be critical or flame me. thanks

The whipple flows 997cfm, I remember reading that that's about 500 cfm more than our stock blower. I don't believe they use a throttle body when testing cfm, I believe they just put the blower on a flowbench and test-I could be wrong. Max rpm for the Gen V M62 is 16,000rpms, the max for the whipple 100ax is 18,000 rpms.


HERE IS A THREAD THAT NEEDS TO BE READ:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ht=blower+swap


Keep in mind, the whipple in that thread is the old whipple, the new 100AX is the 1.6 liter blower I'm talking about. Also, he's talking about the Gen 4 M62 and M90, we have the Gen V-but it gets the idea across.PLEASE read that thread! I hope this helps.
Old 07-02-2006, 03:19 PM
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A Whipple W75AX is good for 22 PSI with a 3" pulley. It maxes out at 20,000 RPM with a max of 35 PSI, but would require a 2.1" pulley to reach that (physically impossible if I'm not mistaken). It's physically smaller than the M62.

I tried talking to Whipple, but they would tell me noting more than "That will not be out for several months".

I'm talking with another company that makes the cores for Whipple and Kenne Bell. Unfortunatly Whipple either does something to their units or rates them to higher RPM and PSI ratings than the original manufacturer.

I'm currently prototyping an intake setup that would allow us to still use all the intakes currently out for the Cobalt/RL.

I really haven't looked at the W100AX. I know that it is physically larger than the M62, but not sure if it will fit under the hood while on the stock intake manifold.
Old 07-02-2006, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by black06ss
that doesnt mean you have to run 32 to 35 pounds just that it is capable of producing those levels with now harm to the blower itself.

i dont care about the blower... i care about my engine.
Old 07-02-2006, 03:32 PM
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to run 25 pounds of boost you need only replace the pistons nothing else will blow the whole engine is forged anybody with the builbook what is the failure rate for the engine with replaced pistons? I am seriously interested in this modification.
Old 07-02-2006, 03:59 PM
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I have the build book laying around somewhere. I remember reading that besides pistons and valve springs, everything else should be good to ~600hp.
Old 07-02-2006, 04:17 PM
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Doesn't the whipple require more up keep because the tolerances between the rotor and the housing are so tight? It's definetly going to make more power, but I think it's going to be a mod that will require rebuilds in the future. Just something to consider.
Old 07-02-2006, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by zinner
Doesn't the whipple require more up keep because the tolerances between the rotor and the housing are so tight? It's definetly going to make more power, but I think it's going to be a mod that will require rebuilds in the future. Just something to consider.

Haven't heard that, but I'll look into that. Thanks for the advice.
Old 07-02-2006, 06:46 PM
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I'm not sure on the tolerance of the twinscrew vs. roots.

According to Stiegemeier: "When new an Eaton has .0025 rotor to case clearance. (.0025 is equal to the thickness of a piece of paper.)"

That's pretty tight if you ask me. I would hate to see the tolerance of a twinscrew if it was tighter than that.
Old 07-02-2006, 08:36 PM
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A whipple would not run under constant boost. On cobra's, the whipple works exactly like the stock blower, only because it is twin screw not roots it is more efficient. You get vacuum just like on a normal car. You can spin it faster and not create as much heat, therefore you can make much more power.

I don't think it matters what size pulley you need to create what boost level. That's really irrelevant in the big picture.

What might matter is how long that blower snout is. It looks longer than our eaton snout, which means it wouldn't line up with our belt, and it just wouldn't fit without a new snout, which I think is expensive.

A whipple doesn't require much additional upkeep over the eaton. It just requires you to add some oil to the blower every now and then, which you can just pour in. All that extra power though will require extra attention to the rest of your car, especially in regard to clutch, tires, tuning, halfshafts, etc.
Old 07-02-2006, 09:08 PM
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Go turbo.

GT42R or PSC61.

It will be cheaper, more powerful, and cooler sounding.
Old 07-02-2006, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by StreetDreamz
Go turbo.

GT42R or PSC61.

It will be cheaper, more powerful, and cooler sounding.

No, I am not a fan of turbo's. I HATE lag. I want instant power and torque. Besides EVERYONE has a turbo. I'd like to be different.

03gobluecobra, in regards to your pulley size comment, I'll have to disagree. In the link I posted above, you see how much power it takes to spin a smaller pulley. If I can make the same boost with a much bigger pulley, I would free up quite a bit of power due to less parasitic loss. However, the less heat benefits interest me more.
Old 07-02-2006, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Bad06SS
No, I am not a fan of turbo's. I HATE lag. I want instant power and torque. Besides EVERYONE has a turbo. I'd like to be different.

03gobluecobra, in regards to your pulley size comment, I'll have to disagree. In the link I posted above, you see how much power it takes to spin a smaller pulley. If I can make the same boost with a much bigger pulley, I would free up quite a bit of power due to less parasitic loss. However, the less heat benefits interest me more.

Well, the size of the pulley isn't exactly what takes the power away. The gears inside the whipple snout multiply the RPM's, and that final spin rate of the rotors is what takes away the power. A blower with a bigger displacement will push more air with less RPM's, so it can make more power with less RPM's. What really matters is how fast you need to spin the rotors to achieve whatever power level you want, and that will be less with a whipple than eaton.
Old 07-02-2006, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 03gobluecobra
Well, the size of the pulley isn't exactly what takes the power away. The gears inside the whipple snout multiply the RPM's, and that final spin rate of the rotors is what takes away the power. A blower with a bigger displacement will push more air with less RPM's, so it can make more power with less RPM's. What really matters is how fast you need to spin the rotors to achieve whatever power level you want, and that will be less with a whipple than eaton.


True, good point. I see what you mean by the "bigger picture". Thanks for the input.
Old 07-02-2006, 10:28 PM
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heck if someone comes out with a kit for the M62 on the 2.4 PLEASE SIGN ME UP!!!
Old 07-03-2006, 11:51 AM
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**** man you need a manifold, belt, tensioner, plugs, and a tune.
Old 07-03-2006, 11:58 AM
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Whipple is the shiznit. That would be a sick swap. I hope something productive comes out of this thread.
Old 07-03-2006, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by StreetDreamz
**** man you need a manifold, belt, tensioner, plugs, and a tune.
Huh? Why would I need a manifold? The plugs and a tune aren't a problem, and the belt and tensioner I'm using will work just fine. Like I said, 2 adapters. An adapter to mate the outlet of the whipple to the stock manifold, and an adapter to mate the throttle body to the whipple. I don't know where you're getting the idea that you need a new belt and tensioner. Even so, a belt and tensioner is cheap, you're not talking about re plumbing everything like you'd have to do to go turbo.
Old 07-03-2006, 01:10 PM
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I think he was talking to the guy with the 2.4.
Old 07-03-2006, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by patathSS
I think he was talking to the guy with the 2.4.

Oh, gotcha. Thanks Pat Sorry streetdreamz, I misunderstood.
Old 07-05-2006, 09:21 PM
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The current problem I'm haveing is lining up the S/C so that the bolts for the plate don't interfere with the stock bolts. When they don't interfere, the S/C ends up sitting over the opening for the bypass valve and leaving no room to hook it up. I think I might have the fix though.

I'm using the 1.2L. The 1.6L and 2.3L S/C's are wider and longer making them very close to the fuel rail and covering the bypass opening even more. The 1.6L might be usable after some serious motor work and even more intensive work will be needed to use the 2.3L assuming you can make them fit. If you are going that far with it, I would assume you would also go with a custom I/C and intake manifold so it could be possible.

All the above is not even considering the clearance for the pulley. I know I am cutting it close with the 1.2L and a 3.1" pulley.
Old 07-05-2006, 09:25 PM
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All we need are those diamond forged pistons and a new head gasket and hello 30 psi and 400+ whp!
Old 07-05-2006, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
All we need are those diamond forged pistons and a new head gasket and hello 30 psi and 400+ whp!
Which should be achievable with a Whipple 1.2L.
Old 07-08-2006, 03:41 PM
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oohhh... lol, wouldnt that be nice... a street legal, SINGLECHARGED, SC'd 2.0L that would run low 11's... while still getting 20-25mpg... Lets get this show on the road!!! ill pay 3-3.5k for 400whp...
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