Why PCV Valves SUCK. And pics of my S/C...
#36
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Well... since I made the post last night... lol.
I've only got maybe 4 miles on it so far. BUT, I'm about to go do some boosting... so we'll see.
QuickSteel is very strong, and I shouldn't have any problems. As I've said before... a lot of GTP owners that I know have been running it with 2.55" pulleys for 50,000+ miles... looks the same as the day they put it in.
I've only got maybe 4 miles on it so far. BUT, I'm about to go do some boosting... so we'll see.
QuickSteel is very strong, and I shouldn't have any problems. As I've said before... a lot of GTP owners that I know have been running it with 2.55" pulleys for 50,000+ miles... looks the same as the day they put it in.
going to do this mod when i return home! i will post video of before and after
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; 03-22-2008 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Ive seen the cars that do have them , they do trap all the oil in the can . So if u do intend to keep the pcv tube , and your intent is to keep oil out , it isnt a wasted investment .
#41
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For you guys that are getting the P0171, try unhooking your battery for 15ish min.
I know that when I drove from CA, to UT the altitude difference, and the fuel (used 87 at the time to get there), was making my car feel slowww.
Filled up with 91, unhooked the battery. Smoked a cigarette or two. Rehooked it back up, let her idle for 5-10 more minutes. she ran perfectly fine.
I know that when I drove from CA, to UT the altitude difference, and the fuel (used 87 at the time to get there), was making my car feel slowww.
Filled up with 91, unhooked the battery. Smoked a cigarette or two. Rehooked it back up, let her idle for 5-10 more minutes. she ran perfectly fine.
#43
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huh im still pretty convinced you will... what happens is the air that was recirculating into the intake tract was unburned fuel and it helped enrichen the mixture. now elevation and things will change peoples results... its not the thing beeing unhooked that throws the code it your fuel trim will adjust for the difference and weather or not you go over 17+ long term fuel trim or not will depend on altitude, tune, weather, mods... so maybe you will and maybe you wont but one day you will probaly throw the code and possibly even send your balt into limp mode... so if i were you i would check the how to section and look for installin a catch can for under $20
that "hot air" wouldent even see a 1hp loss on a dyno... imo go for the catch can its your "best bet"
that "hot air" wouldent even see a 1hp loss on a dyno... imo go for the catch can its your "best bet"
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; 03-23-2008 at 03:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#44
huh im still pretty convinced you will... what happens is the air that was recirculating into the intake tract was unburned fuel and it helped enrichen the mixture. now elevation and things will change peoples results... its not the thing beeing unhooked that throws the code it your fuel trim will adjust for the difference and weather or not you go over 17+ long term fuel trim or not will depend on altitude, tune, weather, mods... so maybe you will and maybe you wont but one day you will probaly throw the code and possibly even send your balt into limp mode... so if i were you i would check the how to section and look for installin a catch can for under $20
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#49
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Sorry to raise a dead thread but I too am getting a CEL. I'm using a breather filter and capped the intake barb. It usually goes away after a few days but will come back the next day. I recently got a scangauge and cleared the CEL a few times but it keeps coming back.
I'll need to find the tube again and put on a catch can. I made one with <$10 in parts from harbor freight (compressor in line oil seperator and barbs)
I hear this code shows up in other cars at idle if the dip stick is not all the way in. Similar situation since the crank case is venting.
BTW has the silencer plugging held up? I'm interested in trying something like that, but I hear it always seems to "disappear" into the intake. It looks like the holes are too big to just epoxy closed.
I'll need to find the tube again and put on a catch can. I made one with <$10 in parts from harbor freight (compressor in line oil seperator and barbs)
I hear this code shows up in other cars at idle if the dip stick is not all the way in. Similar situation since the crank case is venting.
BTW has the silencer plugging held up? I'm interested in trying something like that, but I hear it always seems to "disappear" into the intake. It looks like the holes are too big to just epoxy closed.
#50
Sorry to raise a dead thread but I too am getting a CEL. I'm using a breather filter and capped the intake barb. It usually goes away after a few days but will come back the next day. I recently got a scangauge and cleared the CEL a few times but it keeps coming back.
I'll need to find the tube again and put on a catch can. I made one with <$10 in parts from harbor freight (compressor in line oil seperator and barbs)
I hear this code shows up in other cars at idle if the dip stick is not all the way in. Similar situation since the crank case is venting.
BTW has the silencer plugging held up? I'm interested in trying something like that, but I hear it always seems to "disappear" into the intake. It looks like the holes are too big to just epoxy closed.
I'll need to find the tube again and put on a catch can. I made one with <$10 in parts from harbor freight (compressor in line oil seperator and barbs)
I hear this code shows up in other cars at idle if the dip stick is not all the way in. Similar situation since the crank case is venting.
BTW has the silencer plugging held up? I'm interested in trying something like that, but I hear it always seems to "disappear" into the intake. It looks like the holes are too big to just epoxy closed.