ZZP Did What?
04-14-2011, 05:14 PM
#401
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04-15-2011, 10:18 AM
#402
I took the ZZP forged 2.0L motor out last night and will be installing the ZZP forged 2.4L motor tomorrow. I will be using the same cyl. head cams, valve springs, turbo, dp, injectors, intake and exhaust manifold. Lets see what will happen with this one!
ZZP Forged 2.0L with Bullseye Power Billet S366!
3.5" dp sexy!
New ZZP forged 2.4
ZZP Forged 2.0L with Bullseye Power Billet S366!
3.5" dp sexy!
New ZZP forged 2.4
04-15-2011, 11:20 AM
#407
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Hey Zoomer,
I guess I'm backing up.. When is ZZP day again? I'll bet alot of folks will come up.. Wondering if it would make sense to do it the following weekend of CED day? Just a thought?
I guess I'm backing up.. When is ZZP day again? I'll bet alot of folks will come up.. Wondering if it would make sense to do it the following weekend of CED day? Just a thought?
04-15-2011, 11:30 AM
#408
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
That might be true if the turbo, charge tubes, throttle body, intake, and heads all flowed 20% more. We also have to deal with a worse rod angle. I would not expect this motor to make as much power as our 2.0 did. It will be interesting either way.
04-15-2011, 01:22 PM
#410
Former Vendor
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04-15-2011, 03:31 PM
#412
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04-15-2011, 04:40 PM
#414
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
I'm not sure what you mean. If you stroke the 2.0 by running the 2.4 crank, you get a 2.3. If you add the 2.4 block for the bigger bore, then it's a 2.4 motor. "Stroker" is just a relative term. Although, the stroke is increased a lot more than the bore when comparing the 2.4 to the 2.0.
04-15-2011, 04:45 PM
#415
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Yes, there was parts of the head gasket where the metal was stretched and evidence of combustion escaping. It really did not look very bad, though. Not considering what we put it through.
04-16-2011, 07:55 AM
#420
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04-16-2011, 09:42 AM
#421
I really dont see the need the need to spend 4k on a short block just to get the block girdle. My goals are less than 500 hp, so I would most likely need sleeves but I dont want to spend the money where it isnt needed if a block girdle will help the sleeves hold more power. That is all.
New product page, descriptions, options, choices.
04-16-2011, 10:00 AM
#423
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The best way to look at warranty coverage is this: We cannot control what you do or how you run your engine. If something fails, it will be on you to prove that it was a defect or error in our part or assembly. We will not warrranty a motor because something happened and you think it's our fault. You will need to prove it (ei bolt backed out of a rod, piston scored up a sleeve)
04-16-2011, 11:22 AM
#424
The pump mounts where the a/c pump used to mount. The coolant hose runs under the oil pan between the cradle and the pan then connects to the water pump block off plate. The block off plate has a fitting welded to it where you connect the hose. The lower port on your radiator feeds the pump. There is a t-fitting in the lower hose to connect your coolant fill/overflow.
This also removes the thermostat housing (which has a block off plate) and water pipe. I also removed the factor oil cooler.
04-16-2011, 12:11 PM
#425
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nice, i plan on doing the electric pump myself and have yet to come across anyone with a plate that i can purchase from. how much would it cost to pick up what is all pictured above? pm please.
interested customer
interested customer