zzp long tube Question
#1
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zzp long tube Question
Has anyone seen or have a dyno sheet that shows the difference between as shorty header and zzp long tubes? I hear there is a good difference but what to see it for my self. If so post it up here or a link, could not find any. Curious to see the torque difference, heard from two people that the torque becomes higher then hp
#3
i doubt theres any dyno charts comparing before and after a straight swap man. the longtube header is pretty new from zzp
the aim is though that with longtubes you get more power at the top. doesnt really mean you lose any low end though
i felt a little increase in the top going from a badmab to zzp longtube. but in the end its really only gonna be a few hp either way going from one aftermarket header to another which is negligable in my opinion
want to hear how it sounds check out my youtube channel - joker42369
the aim is though that with longtubes you get more power at the top. doesnt really mean you lose any low end though
i felt a little increase in the top going from a badmab to zzp longtube. but in the end its really only gonna be a few hp either way going from one aftermarket header to another which is negligable in my opinion
want to hear how it sounds check out my youtube channel - joker42369
#5
Blown cars arent super sensitive to exhaust back pressures. The blower simply pushes the air through the motor and out. Get a free flow setup to aid in this, and you are golden.
Shorty, midlength, long tube will all work fine. No huge difference between any of them.
Fyi, Time Attack ran a shorty header, and made more power than most TVS cars on this site.
Shorty, midlength, long tube will all work fine. No huge difference between any of them.
Fyi, Time Attack ran a shorty header, and made more power than most TVS cars on this site.
Last edited by Staged07SS; 10-28-2013 at 09:22 AM.
#6
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supercharged cars are very sensitive to exhaust back pressure; ZZP do a good long tube, easy to install and less restrictive than some shorty headers. A ported cylinder head in the exhaust port and removing the stock rear muffler will help remove the restrictions that suck power. But without the stock muffler the car becomes very noisy
#7
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supercharged cars are very sensitive to exhaust back pressure; ZZP do a good long tube, easy to install and less restrictive than some shorty headers. A ported cylinder head in the exhaust port and removing the stock rear muffler will help remove the restrictions that suck power. But without the stock muffler the car becomes very noisy
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/dyno...5-dyno-246633/
blower cars are not as sensitive to exhaust as others
#8
well tell that to him
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/dyno...5-dyno-246633/
blower cars are not as sensitive to exhaust as others
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/dyno...5-dyno-246633/
blower cars are not as sensitive to exhaust as others
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Thats for the comments and info. I have a gmpp manifold, 2.5 zzp catted dp, and gmpp performance exhaust. Just tryinh to see if they are worth the $600 price tag vs old set up. And trying to get and and maintain my torque as far in the top end as I can. Car makes just north of 285whp with 260+wt.
#10
Thats for the comments and info. I have a gmpp manifold, 2.5 zzp catted dp, and gmpp performance exhaust. Just tryinh to see if they are worth the $600 price tag vs old set up. And trying to get and and maintain my torque as far in the top end as I can. Car makes just north of 285whp with 260+wt.
I'm putting down 294+ whp on race gas. I would save your pennys for a nice exhaust ported head.
Last edited by Staged07SS; 10-28-2013 at 02:57 PM.
#12
I did not put her on a "dyno" yet, but I did log Gtech Pro RR runs while running race gas in h.o.m. I performed 2 perfect back to back runs (one up the road/one down the road, no wheel spin, level road, etc.), and got some nice data. The Gtech Pro adds wind resistance and rolling resistance so numbers are generally 12-14% lower than what you would see on the dyno (this is verified by a member on here "Micro"). I added 12% (conservative) to my raw numbers along with averaging the 2 runs together (as per Gtech instructions). The car flows nearly 40 lbs/min, so I always new she was close to 300 whp.
Later today or tomorrow, I'm going to make a thread about it.
Here's a snap shot of the graph:
Later today or tomorrow, I'm going to make a thread about it.
Here's a snap shot of the graph:
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Or you can sell me that h62! But when I get cams I plan on porting my head, I already ported the blower, tb, and soon to do the intake, mite as well do the head, And hog out the manifold.
#17
Yep, they are pretty accurate as long as you dont spin the tires. There is a test in my one road and track between all the testing gear out there. The Gtech Pro RR logged about 1 sec slower 0-60 and 1/4 miles times to the fancy vbox used for all the magazine articles. Mirco has done back to back testing with his Gtech Pro RR on the dyno and street, and his came right in the range of the dyno. I'm still going to dyno just to keep the dyno lovers happy, but it's nice seeing my power curve, and what the car is more than likely putting down.
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The primary affect of the Header's length like the valves is to allow a certain amount of drag or pressure one way or another. Long tube's are great for High/Mid, mid's are a compromise, and shorty's are good for low RPM use. Don't quote me I'm not a expert, but that's what they sell the V-8 crowd.
Primarily the Longtube like a full 3in system are going to give you more. I felt that if there is a gain there must be a restriction beforehand.
Regardless you should see some pretty good gains over stock because the stockers are kinked and flow odd for whatever reason, which we're seeing much less of in the more modern muscle cars, but our cars still have them.
Will also affect the sound, bottom line you want top race performance for drag or other high rpm types Long Tube, for general street upgrade fuel efficient punch up hill kinda stuff Shorty.
Primarily the Longtube like a full 3in system are going to give you more. I felt that if there is a gain there must be a restriction beforehand.
Regardless you should see some pretty good gains over stock because the stockers are kinked and flow odd for whatever reason, which we're seeing much less of in the more modern muscle cars, but our cars still have them.
Will also affect the sound, bottom line you want top race performance for drag or other high rpm types Long Tube, for general street upgrade fuel efficient punch up hill kinda stuff Shorty.
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Well I am going from a gmpp manifold and a 2.5 zzp catted dp to that. Hopen I wont lose much or any down low torque. My torque and hp are only 20 apart and its nice.