$1000 for mods? Various other questions...
09-01-2006, 12:35 PM
#27
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He seems to think its going to be one of the fastest things on the street. He gave 23,000 for the car, and I only gave 12,000 for mine. Thats 11,000 difference, of course there is going to be a difference in the performance. I would like to show him that a 12,000 with 11k in mods (equalling his 23,000) will smoke him. Granted though, I don't have 11 grand to spend in mods, and even if I did I am not sure there are enough parts for the LS to spend that much, but you get the point.
09-01-2006, 01:10 PM
#28
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with 3K or less you would embarass him honestly haha
when it comes down to it, the real power of the ecotec is when you tear into it, but this all requires tuning to run properly.
when it comes down to it, the real power of the ecotec is when you tear into it, but this all requires tuning to run properly.
09-01-2006, 01:24 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by slowion2
with 3K or less you would embarass him honestly haha
when it comes down to it, the real power of the ecotec is when you tear into it, but this all requires tuning to run properly.
when it comes down to it, the real power of the ecotec is when you tear into it, but this all requires tuning to run properly.
09-01-2006, 01:27 PM
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Personally I wouldn't think much of who can reach a quarter mile the fastest. There are cops on the road quite often (atleast in jersey). A car is a car, gets you from point A to point B. I'd spend that chunck of cash for college. But if your looking for the best bang for the buck, save up more and go with a turbo (coming out in a month or so) but it cost 3-4 grand depending on which one.
Here's a great example taken for Hahn RaceCraft's Website.
"Turbocharging has long been recognized as the most efficient method of increasing power while maintaining excellent engine life and daily drivability. The cost, when expressed in HP per dollar, is unmatched by any other method of increasing power. For instance, consider that our Stage II system for Talon/Eclipse provides up to a 130 HP gain for approximately $3000. This performance gain equals about $22 per HP. Now consider an exhaust, header and intake: a gain of about 20HP for $1000, or about $50 per HP, more than twice the cost per HP compared to turbocharging"
Alex
Here's a great example taken for Hahn RaceCraft's Website.
"Turbocharging has long been recognized as the most efficient method of increasing power while maintaining excellent engine life and daily drivability. The cost, when expressed in HP per dollar, is unmatched by any other method of increasing power. For instance, consider that our Stage II system for Talon/Eclipse provides up to a 130 HP gain for approximately $3000. This performance gain equals about $22 per HP. Now consider an exhaust, header and intake: a gain of about 20HP for $1000, or about $50 per HP, more than twice the cost per HP compared to turbocharging"
Alex
09-01-2006, 01:55 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by Cougar
Personally I wouldn't think much of who can reach a quarter mile the fastest. There are cops on the road quite often (atleast in jersey). A car is a car, gets you from point A to point B. I'd spend that chunck of cash for college. But if your looking for the best bang for the buck, save up more and go with a turbo (coming out in a month or so) but it cost 3-4 grand depending on which one.
Here's a great example taken for Hahn RaceCraft's Website.
"Turbocharging has long been recognized as the most efficient method of increasing power while maintaining excellent engine life and daily drivability. The cost, when expressed in HP per dollar, is unmatched by any other method of increasing power. For instance, consider that our Stage II system for Talon/Eclipse provides up to a 130 HP gain for approximately $3000. This performance gain equals about $22 per HP. Now consider an exhaust, header and intake: a gain of about 20HP for $1000, or about $50 per HP, more than twice the cost per HP compared to turbocharging"
Alex
Here's a great example taken for Hahn RaceCraft's Website.
"Turbocharging has long been recognized as the most efficient method of increasing power while maintaining excellent engine life and daily drivability. The cost, when expressed in HP per dollar, is unmatched by any other method of increasing power. For instance, consider that our Stage II system for Talon/Eclipse provides up to a 130 HP gain for approximately $3000. This performance gain equals about $22 per HP. Now consider an exhaust, header and intake: a gain of about 20HP for $1000, or about $50 per HP, more than twice the cost per HP compared to turbocharging"
Alex
09-01-2006, 02:04 PM
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well, you won't have an intake or a header when you go with a turbo system, because all your intake plumbing is going to be altered drastically to work with the turbocharger and such.
there's nothing wrong with the 1/4 mile, though there are other forms of racing just as fun if not more. however, Cougar brings up a good point in terms of saving the money for something more useful.
like I said, if it's burning a hole in yoru pocket spend it on some suspension upgrades and maybe tires and wheels
there's nothing wrong with the 1/4 mile, though there are other forms of racing just as fun if not more. however, Cougar brings up a good point in terms of saving the money for something more useful.
like I said, if it's burning a hole in yoru pocket spend it on some suspension upgrades and maybe tires and wheels
09-02-2006, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Rush
By cat you mean cat back exhaust system right? I am getting the Corse 2.5 touring, most likely at least.
no theres still a cat in my cat back but when you order the downtube it come with a cat option too. i got mine without it but still have the cat on the cat-back
09-02-2006, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Cougar
A car is a car, gets you from point A to point B.
anyway I don't buy all that short shifter damaging your syncros BS...the rod is now longer at the bottom of the shifter and shorter at the top. so as the name implies, the distance between your shifts is SHORTER. you can't damage your syncros from have less travel distance between each gear.
not to mention i've felt the twm shifter in person, shifts are smooth as butter. the only way u are going to **** up your syncros is if you drive like a retard and have no hand and foot coordination. but you could do that with the stock shifter...
anything that can help you spend less time shifting or hooking off the line I'm all for...
09-02-2006, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by IonNinja
anyway I don't buy all that short shifter damaging your syncros BS...the rod is now longer at the bottom of the shifter and shorter at the top. so as the name implies, the distance between your shifts is SHORTER. you can't damage your syncros from have less travel distance between each gear.
not to mention i've felt the twm shifter in person, shifts are smooth as butter. the only way u are going to **** up your syncros is if you drive like a retard and have no hand and foot coordination. but you could do that with the stock shifter...
anything that can help you spend less time shifting or hooking off the line I'm all for...
not to mention i've felt the twm shifter in person, shifts are smooth as butter. the only way u are going to **** up your syncros is if you drive like a retard and have no hand and foot coordination. but you could do that with the stock shifter...
anything that can help you spend less time shifting or hooking off the line I'm all for...
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