So, as most of you know i recently found out the limitations of the stock bottom end of the L61. It tossed a rod on my way home from work while rolling into the throttle. I am going to be updating the original post during the process. I want to use this as reference material for guys looking to do a build, down to prices, links, and information that is commonly asked for.

UPDATE: Goals, Are 400+whp and rev to 8K RPM

Here is a list of the build parts that I plan on using:

ZZP Fuel Pump Re-Wire- $29
ZZP 82# Valvesprings- $290
ZZP Neutral Balance Shafts- $270
Wiesco Forged Pistons
Eagle Forged Rods-^ $750 (packaged with pistons)
ARP Studs- $135 (From ZZP)
Cometic HG- $95 (From TTR)
Hardend Oil Pump Gears (still sourcing treating)
ARP Flywheel bolts- $25 (From ZZP)

Build total: $1594

Car already has on it:

3" TBE
2.4 Intake Manifold
78lb Injectors
57 trim turbo
Vulcan turbo Manifold (dont recommend it to anyone)
Custom Intake for the turbo
Custom Charge Pipe
Ebay Intercooler

I have started the teardown, only took a little over an hour to strip the car and basically get the engine ready to drop out. I have a few pics of the teardown:





And here is one of the damage (what i know of now):



I get to drive this in the meantime, No complaints here lol:


UPDATE 12/8/11:

Well here are some pics from pulling the motor. I havent gotten the bottom end apart yet but i did get the head off. The valves in cylinder #1 are bent from the piston free floating in the cylinder. Luckly i have another head that i can canabalize for parts.

Also i am going to make a few changes and additions to the parts list. I am talking to ZZP about their LE5 clutch kit since my Spec clutch is now in the landfill.

Anyways on to the pics:

 

Sub'd, I need to see your process I want to built my motor too. Sorry to thread jack but do u have pics of your charge pipes I wanna change the set up of my charge pipes

 

kingsford and budlight. nice haha

 

sub'dddididid Cant wait to see the finished product!

 

Anything your looking for specifically as far as pictures?

Yeah i didnt notice till you mentioned that lol. Thats left overs from summer lol.

 

UPDATED first post with goals of the build.

 

on the balance shafts. zzp released about a month or so ago a new stainless steel model with a stronger, longer life than the gmr's or any other balance shaft. you could also go with a balance shaft delete and run an electric water pump. faster revs and less load on the engine.

 

I take it thats how you are running. Any issues with drivability with the E-pump?

 

none at all. car stays cool all the time

 

Like I want to change my ic piping. I just want to see pics of your ic piping set up

 

Ok I will grab some when I get home. I can put it all together on the floor for you.

 

good luck on the build. when i built mine it was a ton of headaches but glad i'm done with mine.

i am at the same goal as you of 400hp but with a blower.

you can check out my build thread.

went with
94lb dual valve springs
oversize valves
stage 2 n/a cams
ported head
stock head gasket
bates sleeves
bates hardened oil pump gears
bates neutral balance shafts
weisco 10:1 pistons
eagle rods

 

How are those N/A cams working for you?I could imagine them having alot of overlap causing you to lose cylinder pressure from the blower but I don't know the specs on them.I bet they sound mean though,any vid clips?

 

The other other option is that GMPP has a kit with a new chain that bypasses balance shafts but still hits the water pump. I think its fairly expensive though. The cheaper option for a delete is to just run the Level Zero Motorsports delete kit.

 

Fully built Cobalt 2.2 Idle - YouTube

here is what it sounds like with the tune vince gave us. he has the idle at like 1200rpms. trying to get it under 1k so it lopes better. its hard to do that with the 80lbs and 94lb valve springs.

 

Sounds good!

 

why would you get rid of the balance shafts only to keep a load on the chain from the water pump? doesn't make any sense. just get neutrals and be able to rev to 8k. or delete with an electric water pump and be able to rev to 8k and do it fast.

 

SBUBD! is that a ss tb?

 

Yes its a 07 TBSS i bought for my wife now i drive it.

 

hahah funny how that works huh

 

Link?

Because E pumps are expensive? Other then that I don't know.

 

What are you doing for the block?

 

I still havent seen an e-pump thats as good as a mechanical one. I have a link to the regular delete kit but not the GM one.

 

Electric pump is only $299.

When i was at the track my coolant was never above 176*. and that was at the end of the pass. driving back to the pits it was already in the 160s, a few minutes of idling and i was back down to 153*.


ZZPerformance Electric Water Pump - YouTube

 

Interesting. Did you leave your balance shafts in or put the block off bushings in?