15.7...whats next?
#26
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Run with all the extra weight out of the car. You can drop around two tenths off your time from there. 2.4 manifold is a must if you are trying to get better track time. You should easily get into low 15 with that. I did a 15.97 with weight reduction and 2.4 intake manifold
#27
I would suggest to get rid of the LSJ parts and go aftermarket. Once you do that do a 2.4 manifold swap. Maybe try different tires for better traction and lowering the car for better aerodynamics. Mabye a short throw shifter, the less time you spend shifting the more time you spend on the gas pedal. And then theres always weight reduction, theres a video posted by i believe anomolous on how to take out like 140lbs in 20 minutes which will shave about 1-2 tenths off your time. With all that stuff done you should be able to run 15.0 if not a little better. Then you can always run a 50-75 shot for even better results.
#29
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have you guys looked into the 2.4 manifold swap or has anyone got it done? i saw the dyno with it on (with intake and exhaust) and was disappointed with the power bein under the 2.2 manifold from 3300-4700 rpms... is it different if you are more modded then just intake and exhaust???
#30
i will get the 2.4 mani later as well, and the spray is a bigger mod that will be later, im badically looking for mods that run 300 or less right now, so i can get them done first<<--basically basic bolt on, andi know the lsj isnt doin all it could be, i talked tot he guy who offered me the CA header, and ima be taking it off his hands later, so thats on part that after market, and i have the lsj springs sitting in the garage, im waiting ti'll i get the body kit on b4 i drop it, i dont want to go to low(lots of speeds bumps on my street, not to mention my driveway to get to my garage is a nice little hill on its own), ps i went to get my car dyno'd today, i they ran it in 4th gear, well guess what? he top'd out on the governer b4 he got to finish, but he managed to get me #'s out of it, note that they didnt have a bif blower in front the car, they just strapped it down, and ran it, so i didnt have any air blowing at it <<--im not going there no more
127.5whp
139.2wtrq
127.5whp
139.2wtrq
#31
Senior Member
Not being rude but quit being cheap
Either you're doing it right or not doing it at all. It just sounds like you're just adding a bunch of cheap parts to see what you're going to get when in reality...you're not gaining much. Congrats, you're as fast as a stock manual Cavalier. See what I mean?
Make a goal. Save your money. If your goal is not within reach reasonably, don't waste your money.
PS: Fix your misfiring issue. What's the point of modifying a car when your engine doesn't work.
Either you're doing it right or not doing it at all. It just sounds like you're just adding a bunch of cheap parts to see what you're going to get when in reality...you're not gaining much. Congrats, you're as fast as a stock manual Cavalier. See what I mean?
Make a goal. Save your money. If your goal is not within reach reasonably, don't waste your money.
PS: Fix your misfiring issue. What's the point of modifying a car when your engine doesn't work.
#32
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Driver mod is probably your biggest concern. what were you're 60' times?
Other than that, you're not really makin THAT much power that you need to worry about traction/suspension, unless you're spinning then i'd say get some sticker tires.
Get a full exhaust, not LSJ stuff b/c it's not THAT much better. Header, DP, hi-flow cat, cat back. I didn't really read your mod list so just disregard if you have that stuff. That's probably about all the cheap power mods you can do.
Other than that, you're not really makin THAT much power that you need to worry about traction/suspension, unless you're spinning then i'd say get some sticker tires.
Get a full exhaust, not LSJ stuff b/c it's not THAT much better. Header, DP, hi-flow cat, cat back. I didn't really read your mod list so just disregard if you have that stuff. That's probably about all the cheap power mods you can do.
#34
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Also
Any one stating to do airflow modifications like a larger throttle body or larger / shorter runner intake manifolds, these changes effect intake resonating and velocity. There is no point in doing such a modification because it's just essentially shifting your powerband upwards.
Bigger isn't always better. It can get to a point where it's useless with your engine setup (which it will be).
Any one stating to do airflow modifications like a larger throttle body or larger / shorter runner intake manifolds, these changes effect intake resonating and velocity. There is no point in doing such a modification because it's just essentially shifting your powerband upwards.
Bigger isn't always better. It can get to a point where it's useless with your engine setup (which it will be).
#35
NJHK, i know whatu mean about being cheap, trust me im not trying to be, im just trying trying to be, even if it sound like it, im just focusing on both performance and appearance, im having ot budget my performance mods,a nd my visual ones, which right now are pretty high, i ordered a body kit im having to get done, and at the same time, im trying to get some mods down to get a bit quicker, and i know the LSJ stuff seems cheap, but hey, the car flow better than it should no? and the real aftermarket will come later, and i take no offense to what u said, i appreciate that u openly said what u felt
#36
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Also
Any one stating to do airflow modifications like a larger throttle body or larger / shorter runner intake manifolds, these changes effect intake resonating and velocity. There is no point in doing such a modification because it's just essentially shifting your powerband upwards.
Bigger isn't always better. It can get to a point where it's useless with your engine setup (which it will be).
Any one stating to do airflow modifications like a larger throttle body or larger / shorter runner intake manifolds, these changes effect intake resonating and velocity. There is no point in doing such a modification because it's just essentially shifting your powerband upwards.
Bigger isn't always better. It can get to a point where it's useless with your engine setup (which it will be).
#37
hey 15.7 isnt bad for a 2.2 though... im looking to get into the low to mid 15s
#38
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yeah i ran 16.7 stock, and while at the track i ran another stock 2.2, i dusted him on my 15.7 run, and than missed a gear on the rematch, i missed second gear and ran a 16.7, he ran perfect and got a 16.6, so i see how much those little things did, and we're both 5 spds, and my 60' is 2.4 at the moment
#40
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NJHK, i know whatu mean about being cheap, trust me im not trying to be, im just trying trying to be, even if it sound like it, im just focusing on both performance and appearance, im having ot budget my performance mods,a nd my visual ones, which right now are pretty high, i ordered a body kit im having to get done, and at the same time, im trying to get some mods down to get a bit quicker, and i know the LSJ stuff seems cheap, but hey, the car flow better than it should no? and the real aftermarket will come later, and i take no offense to what u said, i appreciate that u openly said what u felt
That's not what he was neccessarily getting at. He's saying that by adding TB, intake, Manifold, etc, you might be making more power, but your powerband, where all the power is, is going to be much higher, so you might actually be slow. It's a very technical theory as to why this is that i don't really want to get into at 1230 the night before a final. That's a topic for another discussion.
#41
thsan i mis read it, cuz i thought he was callign me cheap for not wanting to do BIG mods, when i was stating that im doing all the small stuff, to get them out the way so i can start with the big, basically im getting all the small things done first, than moving into the bigger ones , i know all about the air thingy and what not lol, yeah i've been around the forums long enough to know what mods arent good for the car
#42
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what's he have done. That's a really good time for an auto. 2.4 60' is about right for a 15.7. I ran a 15.6 when i was stock and had a 2.2 60'. You should be making more power so if you can get that 60' down around the 2.2 - 2.1 region you might be looking at some nicer times.
#43
Senior Member
NJHK, i know whatu mean about being cheap, trust me im not trying to be, im just trying trying to be, even if it sound like it, im just focusing on both performance and appearance, im having ot budget my performance mods,a nd my visual ones, which right now are pretty high, i ordered a body kit im having to get done, and at the same time, im trying to get some mods down to get a bit quicker, and i know the LSJ stuff seems cheap, but hey, the car flow better than it should no? and the real aftermarket will come later, and i take no offense to what u said, i appreciate that u openly said what u felt
FOCUS ON ONE THING AT A TIME!
When you try and do multiple things at once on a limited budget, you will fail in all areas because nothing will get completed. You'll be one of those guys with a half done exhaust system and a unpainted body kit...
#44
he's got a injen intake and free flowing muffler, and he poly filled his mounts, i think that it, oh and i know about multi taking, which is why im taking it slow, lol to the unpainted body kit though, cuz it is unpainted, and when i install it, it'll be primered grey, but i do have the money ot get it painted, i have it stored away, im waiting for my shop to get the paint ordered so they can paint it
#45
Senior Member
1. Plastic Manifolds aren't weak in his case. Weak is in comparison to what their job is. Manifolds don't carry lava...they care air (oxygen).
2. No matter what manifold material you have, if you have fuel puddling, you CAN put holes in your manifold and yes it can happen to a aluminum manifold with a strong enough detonation. You should be less worried about your manifold and more worried about other engine components getting damaged.
3. This is part of 2...those manifolds, plastic or aluminum are dry style manifolds...dry meaning their sole purpose is to carry oxygen. It is not naturally a wet manifold, meaning, it is not meant for carrying fuel...but could. Fuel can and will puddle under certain circumstances because of the manifold design, not the manifold material. The whole big worry about plastic vs aluminum is useless and pointless and thinking that one is better than the other for nitrous is foolish. It's the design that matters...
he's got a injen intake and free flowing muffler, and he poly filled his mounts, i think that it, oh and i know about multi taking, which is why im taking it slow, lol to the unpainted body kit though, cuz it is unpainted, and when i install it, it'll be primered grey, but i do have the money ot get it painted, i have it stored away, im waiting for my shop to get the paint ordered so they can paint it
Well my point is, worry about one thing then the next. Funny enough that appearance usually conflicts with performance (typically weight and/or aerodynamics) but whatever. Make a goal and go for it...don't just modify to modify and hope to get something out of it cause it'll just lead you to be disappointed and waste money.
Also I suggest doing more research. Don't research parts but research function. Learn how a engine works more in-depth. Learn theories. The keyword is learn. If you really want to get into performance and actually succeeding, education is key.
Take it for what it's worth.
Last edited by NJHK; 12-22-2007 at 12:51 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#46
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I'm sorry that's incorrect...
1. Plastic Manifolds aren't weak in his case. Weak is in comparison to what their job is. Manifolds don't carry lava...they care air (oxygen).
2. No matter what manifold material you have, if you have fuel puddling, you CAN put holes in your manifold and yes it can happen to a aluminum manifold with a strong enough detonation. You should be less worried about your manifold and more worried about other engine components getting damaged.
3. This is part of 2...those manifolds, plastic or aluminum are dry style manifolds...dry meaning their sole purpose is to carry oxygen. It is not naturally a wet manifold, meaning, it is not meant for carrying fuel...but could. Fuel can and will puddle under certain circumstances because of the manifold design, not the manifold material. The whole big worry about plastic vs aluminum is useless and pointless and thinking that one is better than the other for nitrous is foolish. It's the design that matters...
alright.
Well my point is, worry about one thing then the next. Funny enough that appearance usually conflicts with performance (typically weight and/or aerodynamics) but whatever. Make a goal and go for it...don't just modify to modify and hope to get something out of it cause it'll just lead you to be disappointed and waste money.
Also I suggest doing more research. Don't research parts but research function. Learn how a engine works more in-depth. Learn theories. The keyword is learn. If you really want to get into performance and actually succeeding, education is key.
Take it for what it's worth.
1. Plastic Manifolds aren't weak in his case. Weak is in comparison to what their job is. Manifolds don't carry lava...they care air (oxygen).
2. No matter what manifold material you have, if you have fuel puddling, you CAN put holes in your manifold and yes it can happen to a aluminum manifold with a strong enough detonation. You should be less worried about your manifold and more worried about other engine components getting damaged.
3. This is part of 2...those manifolds, plastic or aluminum are dry style manifolds...dry meaning their sole purpose is to carry oxygen. It is not naturally a wet manifold, meaning, it is not meant for carrying fuel...but could. Fuel can and will puddle under certain circumstances because of the manifold design, not the manifold material. The whole big worry about plastic vs aluminum is useless and pointless and thinking that one is better than the other for nitrous is foolish. It's the design that matters...
alright.
Well my point is, worry about one thing then the next. Funny enough that appearance usually conflicts with performance (typically weight and/or aerodynamics) but whatever. Make a goal and go for it...don't just modify to modify and hope to get something out of it cause it'll just lead you to be disappointed and waste money.
Also I suggest doing more research. Don't research parts but research function. Learn how a engine works more in-depth. Learn theories. The keyword is learn. If you really want to get into performance and actually succeeding, education is key.
Take it for what it's worth.
#47
Senior Member
this is more bout being rude and being cheap post you made... i was initially the one who asked bout the 2.4 manifold and how it lags in power n tp from 33-47... i saw the dyno from the ppl who offered the kit and didnt like it. do u kno of ne other gains with other mods... like would it be better if more modded than just intake n exhaust??? thanks adam
It's alot more than that. I can't just list parts and say get it, you should look into how they operate and the theories behind it.
#49
i have the ebay air intake with one of those spectre filters from autozone and i do not have a check engine light
#50
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he's got a injen intake and free flowing muffler, and he poly filled his mounts, i think that it, oh and i know about multi taking, which is why im taking it slow, lol to the unpainted body kit though, cuz it is unpainted, and when i install it, it'll be primered grey, but i do have the money ot get it painted, i have it stored away, im waiting for my shop to get the paint ordered so they can paint it