slowion2

Back about a year ago or so, Borla had decided to R&D a cat back for the 03-04 Ions. well, it looked pretty good, and quality was great, but being the cheap-asses that many Saturn owners are not many people had shown interest. As a result, the two prototypes they made were the only two for the Ion. A few months back, the two showed up on eBay. I snagged one, and another guy in STC (my car club) grabbed the other. I got it for around 165 shipped or so. I found out about a month after installing it, that Borla kept the design and just changed the flange and hanger locations, and is now selling it for the Cobalt for quite a bit more than I got mine

I find that very hard to believe as far as what power you're getting with the proper fuel jets. there's a good possibility you have just a really rich tune, which you can correct with a piggyback. sure, there comes a time (on a dyno which I'm assuming was when you did this) where you can try swapping jets and watch your a/f, but I don't see your correlation between stock timing causing you to run rich. ignition timing is not your fuel trim.

traviskearney

they don't make a piggyback for it....and the first time I went to dyno, I just ran three times to get power numbers and with the 75 and 75 I got 176wheel. The second time I went back and paid for an hour of tuning, and lessening the fuel spray corrected it. I don't know if timing had anything to do with it. But I figured it worked in somehow with it considering you're suppose to retard the timing to run a 75-75.

slowion2

you're suggested to retard timing to work against detonation, but considering how mild ignition timing is stock you can get away with running a 75 on stock timing.

haha I wasn't saying they made a piggyback for your car, but that doesn't mean you can't wire one in to work. For example: get your ecu pinouts and you can easily wire in a SAFC2 from Apexi or one of the many other afc's on the market. I come from a place where there isn't jack **** made for the cars we build, so it's either make it work or make it yourself. something still doesn't add up about your numbers though to me, just can't put my finger on it.

Permafried-

Lost the timeslip but mine hit 16.1 @ 85.5mph...that's the best I can give ya .

Clmbngfrk18

hey guys with the 2.2 can any give me an idea on what rpm you launch at best ive been able to put down is a 16.2 and it seem every time off he line i either get wheel hop or it not high enough to get going so it bogs down

sshaner

I have a 2.2 and i ran, a 15.3 going back to the track in 1 month for some more times and gng to run my ss/sc

05sedan

clmb i launch at around 2500rpms and feather the clutch out slightly ...it will still spinb ut no wheelhop

traviskearney

I have a dyno posted of 150.4, that's minus gas. I didn't have time to print out my N20 dynos while I was tuning, cause I wanted to get as many runs in, in an hour, so as not to pay another $100. But obviously adding 71 horses with a 75 shot, isn't impossible....so what's not to believe?

slowion2

what's not to believe is what you say you gained with the correct jetting for a 75 shot if you really want to get technical, I really don't see how it's running that rich unless you have the wrong jetting info, but hey if it works and you're at the right a/f ratio then more power to you.

I hear you on the dyno cost too, those guys make money. there's luckily a few local to me that aren't too rediculous, but still more than I would have liked to spend.

traviskearney

I've heard arguments for both, but at one point I added a velocity resistor too up the fuel before I added the N20. Supposedly when you take it out, it stops running with extra gas, but maybe it didn't. Don't know. With a 75 N20 and 55 gas I run 13.2 and that's where I want so uhhhhhhhhhhhh yeah.

Permafried-

I agree with 05sedan...it's possible around 3000 but too much above that and the wheels start hoppin like it's going outta style. It def works much better when you feather the clutch though, if you just dump it you're going to spend a good amount of time in first hopping and bouncing and the only way to stop it is to let off or bog down in second.

IonNinja

even at that time range I don't see you trapping 108mph so you shouldn't have a problem...however if you actually ran around a 13.6 I could see you getting within a few mph which you might hit after the line

CivicKiller98

travis, what about using a progressive controller?

traviskearney

[QUOTE=CivicKiller98]travis, what about using a progressive controller?[/QUOTE

That would be my foot, but the problem is, with the limiter being 108, I have to run slower than I'm really capable, and that doesnt give me a real time. I do an 1/8 at 86mph. Just from flying on the interstate, WITHOUT using N20, I know I can go from 86 to 108 in less than 5 seconds. So with it, it would be quicker of course. When I ran a "simulated" 1/4 on a dyno machine, I ran an 1/8 mile in 8.4 @ 82mph, and the machine "simulated" 12.6 at 112mph. But if I were to run, I wouldn't have full N20 the whole time, like I can when I run an 1/8th, therefore I would have to wait a little before I engage it, making my time probably closer to a 13.8.

CivicKiller98

can you explain how your foot would be your progressive controller? did you do something new?

slowion2

progressive controllers simply pulse the solenoids, so with creative pedaling you can come as close (which isn't much in reality haha) as possible for a person to mimic the controller. a T-handle shifter with an intermittent buttom was the solution back in the day before progressive controllers were available.

accellerating from one speed to the next is not something that can compare to starting from a stop. but with the 1/8 mile time and traps you have (being thats not simulated) I could see that car turning mid 13's at 104-108. I'm working with the Ion ecus to get around that limiter for this reason, or at least bump it up a bit.

IonNinja

do you think it is possible to just swap in an Ion 3 ECU with the higher limiter?

slowion2

maybe, everything we had been discussing on TSN and where ever else was just speculation because nobody did it. I had swapped an 05 flashed ecu into an 04 Redline and it took fine and did not cause a CEL, so that's a step in the right direction.

I just paid for another ecu today, picking it up within the next week or two from the guy. supposedly it's an auto out of a sedan, no idea the trim level. connectors are the same as mine now. either way I'll try it out and see what's up, then flash it a few times to see how it works out.