2.2 NA w/ spray
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-07-06
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Cobalt30
highest shot i would do is 75 since thats the safest and it says that in the 2.2 gm build book. i would only run a 100 shot if i had upgraded internals.
250 hp is the max safe hp recommended by gm, pick up a copy of the ecotec build book, its full of lots of good info. the book recommends 75 shot max.
GM did run the ecotec up to 280hp on stock internals on nitrous before the rods failed.
i personally prefer to use a progressive nitrous controller. it just makes it that much safer than throwing the large amount of extra load on the stock internals everytime you want a little kick.
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 10-26-05
Location: New Lenox, IL
Posts: 757
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by IonNinja
I'm sorry, I will hold back from posting in your threads for now on since I can't read.
dude its not that serious. i still wanna be your friend. i just need help is all i was trying to say. didnt mean to come off wrong but i tend to speak my mind and it dont always come out in a nice manner. can you forgive a fool?
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-02-06
Location: Fleetwood, PA
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Cobalt30
cams,header,light weight crank pully, light weight flywheel, high flow cat, and some type of tunning to get a better shifting range for your auto.
Correct me if I'm wrong but automatics don't have flywheels do they.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-17-05
Location: Western Massachusetts
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by BlackLS
Correct me if I'm wrong but automatics don't have flywheels do they.
#32
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Wyoming_Bass
so he got mad and spent a ton of money on his NOS system. First time he hit the button he blew his motor.
for having the money to afford Nitrous, i wish i had enough cash to foot the bill for a system, I like the step up idea
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-17-06
Location: New Port Richey, Florida
Posts: 614
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
i am considering getting a sneaky-pete dry shot for my LS.....i know the SP is a minor shot, but i am just looking for a little extra here and there.....and i dont wanna fry my internals....what im asking is if any of you know how difficult it would be to install and if you have any advice on how to install it in the intake somehow so i wont have to mess with the injectors......any1 wanna lend me some advice
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 10-26-05
Location: New Lenox, IL
Posts: 757
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Skottish
i am considering getting a sneaky-pete dry shot for my LS.....i know the SP is a minor shot, but i am just looking for a little extra here and there.....and i dont wanna fry my internals....what im asking is if any of you know how difficult it would be to install and if you have any advice on how to install it in the intake somehow so i wont have to mess with the injectors......any1 wanna lend me some advice
thread jacker
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-17-05
Location: Western Massachusetts
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Skottish
i am considering getting a sneaky-pete dry shot for my LS.....i know the SP is a minor shot, but i am just looking for a little extra here and there.....and i dont wanna fry my internals....what im asking is if any of you know how difficult it would be to install and if you have any advice on how to install it in the intake somehow so i wont have to mess with the injectors......any1 wanna lend me some advice
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-23-06
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can run an OEM head gasket fine for what you're planning.
I do like the suggestion of the head studs just in case you need to pull the head more than once. They are definitely worth the money.
Stock cams would work fine, possibly look at retarding them slightly (not too much since you have an automatic and it could cause idle issues for you), but the stock grind isn't all that bad actually. If anything, get a set of stock ones reground for more duration on the exhaust side to help it breathe when you're using your nitrous.
Not every track requires a blow-down tube.
High-flow Cat would help out definitely. Legality of them depends on the state statuates for where you're at. Also the stock ECU isn't as bad as far as the tune as some are making it sound, you would be suprised. If anything get your a/f ratio either from a dyno place or by borrowing someone's wideband o2 so you can at least make sure you're not having a trend of leaning out as you pull through the powerband. There are quite a few guys with 2.2 Ions on stock tune running a minimum of a 50 shot with colder plugs gapped to .035 and there have been no problems.
Progressive controllers are great units, and most solenoids are designed to pulse (which is how the controller works), but you don't need one to run your kit. With the auto your first gear is taller as it is so it shouldn't be too bad. And for whoever mentioned it, even on a 35 shot the sudden jolt of power is going to happen, so the controller would not protect against it, just would help the holeshot.
I personally feel the Sneaky Pete system is a waste of money. You get one pass (if that) out of a bottle. Just doesn't seem worth it.
Oh and not everyone's switches look like ****
I do like the suggestion of the head studs just in case you need to pull the head more than once. They are definitely worth the money.
Stock cams would work fine, possibly look at retarding them slightly (not too much since you have an automatic and it could cause idle issues for you), but the stock grind isn't all that bad actually. If anything, get a set of stock ones reground for more duration on the exhaust side to help it breathe when you're using your nitrous.
Not every track requires a blow-down tube.
High-flow Cat would help out definitely. Legality of them depends on the state statuates for where you're at. Also the stock ECU isn't as bad as far as the tune as some are making it sound, you would be suprised. If anything get your a/f ratio either from a dyno place or by borrowing someone's wideband o2 so you can at least make sure you're not having a trend of leaning out as you pull through the powerband. There are quite a few guys with 2.2 Ions on stock tune running a minimum of a 50 shot with colder plugs gapped to .035 and there have been no problems.
Progressive controllers are great units, and most solenoids are designed to pulse (which is how the controller works), but you don't need one to run your kit. With the auto your first gear is taller as it is so it shouldn't be too bad. And for whoever mentioned it, even on a 35 shot the sudden jolt of power is going to happen, so the controller would not protect against it, just would help the holeshot.
I personally feel the Sneaky Pete system is a waste of money. You get one pass (if that) out of a bottle. Just doesn't seem worth it.
Oh and not everyone's switches look like ****
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-17-06
Location: Ft. Eustis, VA
Posts: 7,283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you have a working knowledge of nitrous and kits. Just piece together your own. you'll save A LOT.
I mean look at the pieces I've bought for a small $270.
--NOS HiFlow 10lb bottle(half filled)
--ZEX nozzle
--4 jets .032-.036
--Nitrous solenoid
--Brackets
--Mainline
--Liquid filled gauge
--Remote bottle opener with three way switch
Still piecing it together to run a wet kit. Total amount for EVERYTHING off the wall guess would be $400 for me. Helps to have a buddy who is getting rid of his kit. Oh yeah...forgot to mention I'm picking up a whole set of jets if I can. baby steps as I saw previous posts...and plus I want to change it around some.
I mean look at the pieces I've bought for a small $270.
--NOS HiFlow 10lb bottle(half filled)
--ZEX nozzle
--4 jets .032-.036
--Nitrous solenoid
--Brackets
--Mainline
--Liquid filled gauge
--Remote bottle opener with three way switch
Still piecing it together to run a wet kit. Total amount for EVERYTHING off the wall guess would be $400 for me. Helps to have a buddy who is getting rid of his kit. Oh yeah...forgot to mention I'm picking up a whole set of jets if I can. baby steps as I saw previous posts...and plus I want to change it around some.
#42
New Member
Iight people's..I'm new to the Nitrous shots and I'm really tryin to get some juice in my 2.2 though...If there's anything anybody can help me with please don't hold back...Tip pointers anything...
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-23-06
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
that's not bad, I only paid 500 for my kit, but it was the rest of the electronics that addes up. don't cheap out, you'll regret it later.
what exactly do you want to know damon? best tip I could give you is to read and research until you think you've done enough, and then start over. don't skimp on parts, don't "rig" stuff up, install things properly, show self control. manage all that and you'll go far.
what exactly do you want to know damon? best tip I could give you is to read and research until you think you've done enough, and then start over. don't skimp on parts, don't "rig" stuff up, install things properly, show self control. manage all that and you'll go far.
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-26-06
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Holy dead thread,
But to the original poster if you are still looking at doing a complete N/A build you should seriously look at all the numbers involved. Even if you only intend to do pistons, rods, and head studs you are looking at a minimum of $1000. And that number could almost double depending on who does the work.
If you are unable to do this type of work yourself, and do not have a hookup with an engine builder you could be looking at a huge labor bill. Add cams, and some head work and you see where we are going with this. Now if you have the tools and know how to this work yourself than you can really stretch a budget, so if that is the case most of what I have to say won't apply.
Add the nitrous kit on top of the pistons/rods and you could be looking at 3k or more just to do a mild N/A build and nitrous. With cams and head work you could easily drop 4-5k into this thing, with someone else doing the work.
For the same price you could go FI and have that power available all the time. If GM releases a SC kit for you guys you could even keep your warranty.
My point is that N/A builds on small 4 cyl engines are not for the budget minded enthusiast, not starting with an eco anyhow. I would personally rather spend that money setting up a nice intercooled 10 psi turbo set-up. Then if you ever want more power, just do the internals and turn up the boost.
But to the original poster if you are still looking at doing a complete N/A build you should seriously look at all the numbers involved. Even if you only intend to do pistons, rods, and head studs you are looking at a minimum of $1000. And that number could almost double depending on who does the work.
If you are unable to do this type of work yourself, and do not have a hookup with an engine builder you could be looking at a huge labor bill. Add cams, and some head work and you see where we are going with this. Now if you have the tools and know how to this work yourself than you can really stretch a budget, so if that is the case most of what I have to say won't apply.
Add the nitrous kit on top of the pistons/rods and you could be looking at 3k or more just to do a mild N/A build and nitrous. With cams and head work you could easily drop 4-5k into this thing, with someone else doing the work.
For the same price you could go FI and have that power available all the time. If GM releases a SC kit for you guys you could even keep your warranty.
My point is that N/A builds on small 4 cyl engines are not for the budget minded enthusiast, not starting with an eco anyhow. I would personally rather spend that money setting up a nice intercooled 10 psi turbo set-up. Then if you ever want more power, just do the internals and turn up the boost.
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-26-06
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^^With all that said,, as long as you don't surpass the 75 shot you could get away with running stock internals. That would be a really nice hp/$ setup.
But trying to push an N/A eco much beyond that is going to cost more than it is worth IMHO.
But trying to push an N/A eco much beyond that is going to cost more than it is worth IMHO.
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-26-06
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very true. I wonder what Hahn is doing on theirs,,, AFPR?
If HPtuners supports the cavaliers and sunfires it can only be a matter of time til the 2.2l cobalts get some love
If HPtuners supports the cavaliers and sunfires it can only be a matter of time til the 2.2l cobalts get some love