2.2 NA w/ spray
07-12-2006, 01:47 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by slowion2
that's not bad, I only paid 500 for my kit, but it was the rest of the electronics that addes up. don't cheap out, you'll regret it later.
what exactly do you want to know damon? best tip I could give you is to read and research until you think you've done enough, and then start over. don't skimp on parts, don't "rig" stuff up, install things properly, show self control. manage all that and you'll go far.
what exactly do you want to know damon? best tip I could give you is to read and research until you think you've done enough, and then start over. don't skimp on parts, don't "rig" stuff up, install things properly, show self control. manage all that and you'll go far.
Appreciate it man...Respect!!!
Yea I do read...lmao...
07-12-2006, 08:26 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by slowion2
either way, these guys need a way to tune, that's the largest issue that needs to be overcome
07-12-2006, 09:30 PM
#54
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You should be able to tune all you need with jets. If you're going to go with a big shot later on I'd invest in some strong valves and possibly some forged pistons if you want it to be absolutely reliable. If you're buying a kit for your car, it should come with a sheet that tells you which jets to mix and match for the correct shot to run safely. You don't want to change your overall tune because then it'll mess with you when you're off the nitrous.
Anyway you cook it putting nitrous on your car is going to make it less reliable. Anytime you add more hp to a motor it makes it wear faster. things like your fuel pump, timing belt, motor mounts, etc are all going to feel extra stress from this.
make sure if this is the first time ur messing with nitrous that you make it as safe as possible. A WOT switch and fuel pressure cut-out switch are almost a must. Of course, since you're buying a high dollar kit, it'll more than likely come with all that stuff.
Anyway you cook it putting nitrous on your car is going to make it less reliable. Anytime you add more hp to a motor it makes it wear faster. things like your fuel pump, timing belt, motor mounts, etc are all going to feel extra stress from this.
make sure if this is the first time ur messing with nitrous that you make it as safe as possible. A WOT switch and fuel pressure cut-out switch are almost a must. Of course, since you're buying a high dollar kit, it'll more than likely come with all that stuff.
07-12-2006, 09:42 PM
#55
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I want a RPM activation switch that way I can zero in on when I want it to turn on and shut off. It will really be shutting off WAY before redline so I don't go BOOM.
Our peek HP is @ 5600 so I may have it stop there. Since nitrous afterall gives more torque than it does hp...which is why you should try to stay out of hitting it at low speed and rpm.
ZEX has the jet calculation sheet in their online catalog. By tune I mean be at the dyno and have it watch my A/F ratio that way I can look at my gauge and get an idea of where lean for our engines is, etc. And to see how much power I make as well.
Our peek HP is @ 5600 so I may have it stop there. Since nitrous afterall gives more torque than it does hp...which is why you should try to stay out of hitting it at low speed and rpm.
ZEX has the jet calculation sheet in their online catalog. By tune I mean be at the dyno and have it watch my A/F ratio that way I can look at my gauge and get an idea of where lean for our engines is, etc. And to see how much power I make as well.
07-12-2006, 10:04 PM
#56
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Originally Posted by Blackout06LS
I want a RPM activation switch that way I can zero in on when I want it to turn on and shut off. It will really be shutting off WAY before redline so I don't go BOOM.
Our peek HP is @ 5600 so I may have it stop there. Since nitrous afterall gives more torque than it does hp...which is why you should try to stay out of hitting it at low speed and rpm.
ZEX has the jet calculation sheet in their online catalog. By tune I mean be at the dyno and have it watch my A/F ratio that way I can look at my gauge and get an idea of where lean for our engines is, etc. And to see how much power I make as well.
Our peek HP is @ 5600 so I may have it stop there. Since nitrous afterall gives more torque than it does hp...which is why you should try to stay out of hitting it at low speed and rpm.
ZEX has the jet calculation sheet in their online catalog. By tune I mean be at the dyno and have it watch my A/F ratio that way I can look at my gauge and get an idea of where lean for our engines is, etc. And to see how much power I make as well.
Dynos get expensive for that kind of thing. I'd suggest rolling it down to your local performance shop for a wideband tune instead. Thats just if you don't care if you don't know max hp. Might save you a few hundred bux for the same effect though...
07-13-2006, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Novajoe
go for it. RPM activation is always the best way to go. Just costs more $$$ than people want to spend on a weekend warrior.
Dynos get expensive for that kind of thing. I'd suggest rolling it down to your local performance shop for a wideband tune instead. Thats just if you don't care if you don't know max hp. Might save you a few hundred bux for the same effect though...
Dynos get expensive for that kind of thing. I'd suggest rolling it down to your local performance shop for a wideband tune instead. Thats just if you don't care if you don't know max hp. Might save you a few hundred bux for the same effect though...
And about the dyno I may do only 10 pulls lets say. First one base to know where I'm at N/A. 2nd one 35shot, etc.
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