Originally Posted by xCobalt05x

these guys have me sold on it big time. this will keep me from having to change out my plastic intake maifold becaue it low enough boost that it will support it

Originally Posted by roccityroller

idk man, i'm not really getting involved in this one because i haven't researched a lot of this **** much.

However, both sides have presented good points and poor points. the STS have been shown to be quite successful, unfortuneately, I've only seen them successful on GTO's, Vettes, Camaros, and Stangs, what do all those have in common? Large displacement V8's. I honestly don't know how well it would work on a 2.2L 4cyl, and honestly nobody really does, all you're doing is making assumptions about what you think MIGHT happen.

Adam, i'm not trying to knock you on this one but most of these systems tuck the turbo up much higher than the body panels, so most likely, you're going to do a lot of damage to the body of your car before you do to the turbo. It's one of those mods that you have to be aware of it and drive accordingly. It's just like when you lower your car, you watch out for inclines, big bumps, etc, when you put wheels on, you're a lot more careful of potholes, curbs, etc. While your argument is TRUE, i'm not quite sure that it's a strong one.

Cobalt05, your post about running a 10sec pass and then blowing your motor is just silly. We'd all love to run a 10 sec pass but whats the point if it costs you $6-10K to fix it whenever you want to run the 10sec pass? and yes, you're right that colder air is denser and would spin a turbine faster, however, velocity is also key. and through the exhaust pipe, cat (if you need them), resonators, the gases lose velocity. So, you gain density and lose velocity. Plus, no matter what your friend says it will take longer to build boost. a lot of times you can compare pneumatic (air) pressure, aka boost, with hydraulic (water) pressure. Does it take longer to fill a 3ft or 10ft tube to 20 lbs of water pressure? it's the same thing with air. the air will travel to the area of lowest pressure first, therefore, it needs to build the pressure throughout the system prior to it reaching full boost in the intake manifold. Like people said, research compressor maps on google and learn how to read them. Once you can read a compressor map you will be able to find which turbo will work the best on your setup. Remember, bigger is not always better.

My overall opinion? I'd say go for it, try it out, noone else has and someone has to be the first. and from your 10sec post, money isn't much of a big deal for you, so change it if you don't like it. Obviously, when you do something for the first time there will be some resistance, then if it works people will be impressed, and if it doesn't then people have set themselves up to say, "I told you so". dont be afraid to be wrong. just let us know how it works out.

Originally Posted by ORT

Back to what I asked...Its cool that no codes came up. I'm still not sure what to do now. I've been talking to Halfcent and he told me stock cam should be ok with the adjustable cam gears. So now I have 2 options. haha So much to do...and so much research and wanting to get it all done fast sucks. Wish I had an endless pocket....or at 25K bonus for signing on a dotted line

Anyways. Congrats man. Your 1 of the few (actually I think the only other one besides halfcent) that has built there motor to hold and be able to push out some serious power, once the turbo or nitrous is installed. Can't wait till the turbo gets put on (regardless of which system it is). Definatly keep us posted on the install and the numbers you lay down.

EDIT: btw....listened to the sound clip. Definatly sounds different. Gotta get some of the car in higher RPMS...if you can that is. I like the sound though imo.

Originally Posted by elecblue06

elvis i have no idea who you're talking to again.. lol if it's me then i made a mistake... no i didn't fail physics at all... however I haven't taken it or any intensive science/math course in like 7 years haha ...

and tune>all definitely you could be set up perfectly and POP but it seems people are having trouble tuning the 2.2 successfully however supposedly alot of opportunities are coming up for them ...

Xbalt if clearance is not an issue then go for it if it works better thats awesome... if not then as said money doesn't seem to be an issue so swap it out.. good luck either way.. my biggest negative was the possibilities of damage because it's much more exposed to the road... I wouldn't want to chance that however my car doesn't have the clearance yours does and as i've said I've hit my side skirt on a speed bump in my area if you don't have that issue then i hate you for having better roads than me haha

Originally Posted by elecblue06

elvis i have no idea who you're talking to again.. lol if it's me then i made a mistake... no i didn't fail physics at all... however I haven't taken it or any intensive science/math course in like 7 years haha ...

and tune>all definitely you could be set up perfectly and POP but it seems people are having trouble tuning the 2.2 successfully however supposedly alot of opportunities are coming up for them ...

Xbalt if clearance is not an issue then go for it if it works better thats awesome... if not then as said money doesn't seem to be an issue so swap it out.. good luck either way.. my biggest negative was the possibilities of damage because it's much more exposed to the road... I wouldn't want to chance that however my car doesn't have the clearance yours does and as i've said I've hit my side skirt on a speed bump in my area if you don't have that issue then i hate you for having better roads than me haha

Originally Posted by elvisc

nono i wasn't talking to you, you're good

What i'm trying to get at is that sometimes you'll make more power by taking away a psi and adding 1 degree of timing.

Which is why IMO full control is better. (Hense Ionforums for my spark timing project)

Originally Posted by NJHK

Because the turbo charger is located outside the engine bay and underneath the vehicle this is what has to happen and what negative can happen and negative in performance wise...

1. More charge piping - The more bends and the longer distance compressed air has to travel, it's velocity will slow down and can lose pressure.

2. Charge piping being exposed - How many of you people have ever bottom'd out somewhere? Gone into a parking lot that's at a incline. This could quite possibly damage the charge piping and cause it to air leak...boost leak.

3. Oil Lines - Oil now has to travel much farther to reach the center section of the turbo charger. You might also need a inline oil pump to keep it traveling because on a normal turbo setup, gravity and initial oil pressure is enough to get into the center section and as it goes through it, gravity pushes the oil back down into the oil pan.

4. Oil Lines Exposed - Do I need to say what can happen if you oil line comes loose or get damaged. You're talking about your engines "blood". This is why a lot of tracks DO NOT allow these type of setups.

5. Turbo charger Exposed - Same thing as everything else. It's in a terrible location. I know even on stock ride height cars, I've scraped my muffler...would you really want to put a $600+ item underneath your car?

6. Longer travel for the exhaust to hit your turbine - This will impair turbine response. People always say "well to fix this problem, get a smaller turbocharger" well what the **** is the point of that if you're aiming for performance?

Honestly, 4 cylinder cars SHOULD NOT do a STS setup. You have PLENTY of space to do what you want while keeping everything safe secure. STS setups were meant for vehicles that honestly could not fit all the charge piping and even then, I think if you can fit it in your engine bay, don't do it.

It's a irresponsible setup for a turbo system and it's gimmicky because it can essentially "go on any vehicle".

Originally Posted by sls_06ion

thanks, I figured that was most of the concerns. My thing was on their site they have a 4x4 tacoma out mudding and didn't have any issues. thanks you for the answer!

Originally Posted by FastPace Motorsports

Man I've been really trying not to act like an ass but whats your problem dude. Your making no sense as to why this isn't a good system. Your talking about risk to a tuner community, everything we do to our cars involve risks. Are you sure your not wairing panties dude.

Originally Posted by sls_06ion

thanks, I figured that was most of the concerns. My thing was on their site they have a 4x4 tacoma out mudding and didn't have any issues. thanks you for the answer!

Originally Posted by NJHK

Trucks typically are higher in the air than a average sport compact car though...

Originally Posted by xCobalt05x

they guys even point out that with a normal turbo system the engine heat keeps the turbo hot, at the back of the car the exaust gases are cooler then up in the engine bay. cooler air is more dence then hot air. denser air moves the turbo faster. they also point out that intercoolers on normal turbo systems are 75% effective. with the STS system an intercooler is 97% effective. and they also point out tha the long distance of the charging pipe only drops 1psi of boost but the charging pipes cool the air off on the way up to the engine and is good for 50 hp, and he also says thats a much better traed off. just watch the videos

Originally Posted by sls_06ion

I relieze that, they are also mudding in Salt Lake City area, so whom ever is considering getting this kit may want to email them and ask for pic of the turbo on the truck now, see how it looks and how well it's holding up considering the amount of salt in the water and mud there! I be interested in the amount of rust they will build up.

Originally Posted by NJHK

A turbocharger will get hot no matter where you put it...it's called friction and it housing hot exhaust waste. You do realize that air does circulate in the engine bay, right?

Intercooler efficiency varies not from where it's located but the design of the intercooler.

How do charge pipes "cool" the air?

Your statements are being very general.

Originally Posted by elvisc

Quoted for Truth.

I see this setup being good for track only cars, not DD's or anything driven around town.

Also it doesn't matter about "sucking in cold air" if that's what you think (xcobaltsomethingx) because the intercooler is going to cool the air for you! omg the logic! Hold me njhk lol

Also the psi drop thing, yea that could happen but i always run my boost references from my intake manifold so when the intake mani see's 9psi then the wastegate will open.

But again it's all going to be in your tune.

Originally Posted by xCobalt05x

im not talking about sucking in cold air, lol the area back there is cooler over all in general, the temp of the exhaust gas is cooler at the back of the car then up at the engine compartment because the heat disapates from the exhaust pipe as it travels out.

you will see when the time comes and i will get to say "see what happens when you try instead of bash right off the bat".

Originally Posted by elvisc

Quoted for Truth.

I see this setup being good for track only cars, not DD's or anything driven around town.

Also it doesn't matter about "sucking in cold air" if that's what you think (xcobaltsomethingx) because the intercooler is going to cool the air for you! omg the logic! Hold me njhk lol

Also the psi drop thing, yea that could happen but i always run my boost references from my intake manifold so when the intake mani see's 9psi then the wastegate will open.

But again it's all going to be in your tune.

Originally Posted by xCobalt05x

im not talking about sucking in cold air, lol the area back there is cooler over all in general, the temp of the exhaust gas is cooler at the back of the car then up at the engine compartment because the heat disapates from the exhaust pipe as it travels out.

you will see when the time comes and i will get to say "see what happens when you try instead of bash right off the bat".

Originally Posted by elvisc

just a tip try retarding your exhaust cam 1-2 degree's to lower your egts