400WHP ( A Real Dream ??!?)
04-22-2009, 03:26 PM
#51
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True. But lets face it....You are the exception to the rule. Most people end up with a bolt-on car that is just fun to drive and pretty quick. And there is absolutely nothing wrong with that....thats all I'm after.
04-22-2009, 03:29 PM
#53
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Hey Cobalt Owners!!!...
Before I ask this question I want to re-itterate that I am a noob as far as tuning my car but am looking for the knowledge and power to make my 2.2 a beast (in my eyes lol, not trying to run a 7.0) .... Anyways
I want to get my car, 07 chev cobalt 2.2 lt... to 400whp ...
I don't know whats neccesary or if that is even possible... Someone told me
the ecotec on my car isn't even cappible of getting to 400whp because it will crack the engine mounts and stress bars...and than I thought to myself...what am I getting into lol...Possibly a whole engine rebuild or what? Anyways I know the simpelest mods and bolt ons...Intake, manifold, exhoust, super c'd, turbo c'd... fly wheel, etc...etc... but all that added together is still not going to get me pushing 400whp...So what I need to know guys is... HOW CAN I MAKE THIS POSSIBLE lol and will it even be a cobalt by the end of my endevour...
Sorry for the spelling, at work and didnt have time to edit...
Before I ask this question I want to re-itterate that I am a noob as far as tuning my car but am looking for the knowledge and power to make my 2.2 a beast (in my eyes lol, not trying to run a 7.0) .... Anyways
I want to get my car, 07 chev cobalt 2.2 lt... to 400whp ...
I don't know whats neccesary or if that is even possible... Someone told me
the ecotec on my car isn't even cappible of getting to 400whp because it will crack the engine mounts and stress bars...and than I thought to myself...what am I getting into lol...Possibly a whole engine rebuild or what? Anyways I know the simpelest mods and bolt ons...Intake, manifold, exhoust, super c'd, turbo c'd... fly wheel, etc...etc... but all that added together is still not going to get me pushing 400whp...So what I need to know guys is... HOW CAN I MAKE THIS POSSIBLE lol and will it even be a cobalt by the end of my endevour...
Sorry for the spelling, at work and didnt have time to edit...
04-22-2009, 03:43 PM
#55
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I would say do it, just for the hell of it. Or if you have the 6k buy a turbo car, like I did, and put money into that, and keep your car as you dd, then you have a nice project car. People like to screw with my Cobalt, but when I am on the road with my 91 Talon TSI its something else, let me tell you that. 400 whp is a bitch in front wheel drive, hell 310whp in front wheel drive is a bitch. I don't catch traction until 3rd gear.
04-22-2009, 03:52 PM
#57
I would say do it, just for the hell of it. Or if you have the 6k buy a turbo car, like I did, and put money into that, and keep your car as you dd, then you have a nice project car. People like to screw with my Cobalt, but when I am on the road with my 91 Talon TSI its something else, let me tell you that. 400 whp is a bitch in front wheel drive, hell 310whp in front wheel drive is a bitch. I don't catch traction until 3rd gear.
04-22-2009, 04:19 PM
#61
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04-22-2009, 05:00 PM
#64
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04-22-2009, 09:42 PM
#65
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ill have a 200whp all motor 2.2 as soon as i put the motor together then the garrett turbo kit with gt3071r when i bored with all motor, plus i got full wet nitrous kit with 75-150 jets
atleast some of us know what we can do. jason whitfield uses a 2.2L.....
atleast some of us know what we can do. jason whitfield uses a 2.2L.....
Last edited by o3nisoaso3; 04-22-2009 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
04-23-2009, 12:55 AM
#67
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HCI magazine interviewed him and it said somewhere about using a 2.2L ecotec with having full motor redone. you cant use an lsj with the auto tranny... unless it was like a full gm race motor
04-23-2009, 01:05 AM
#68
stroke vs bore are 88.9mm x 88.9mm opposed to a L61's 95.8mm x 86mm, and a LE5's 98mm x 88mm
So it has a larger bore than any factory sold ecotec, and has a stroke between that of a LSJ/LNF and a L61.
Lemme grab a nice bit for you real fast.
The engine block used in all applications is a production
ECOTEC block used in the L61, LE5, LNF, and LSJ engine
variants. This block is cast from aluminum using a lost
foam process. For applications ranging from 400 to 800
hp, a production block that has been screened for cracks,
high porosity, or other imperfections and re-sleeved with a
high-quality aftermarket iron sleeve is acceptable. This
block can be flat-decked for use with the production head
gasket up to 600 hp or an after-market mutli-layer head
gasket up to 800 hp.
For applications above 800 hp, the GM Racing modified
block XGH679 is used. (Fig. 81) While some of the
features of this block are not necessary at horsepower
levels between 800 hp and 1200 hp, the features increase
block longevity at any power level. The modifications and
checks made to the original production cylinder block
include:
The Zyglo system is used to check for cracks and
imperfections in the engine block.
All oil gallery plugs are removed to clean and inspect all
passages.
The stock cylinder sleeves are machined out and new
nodular iron cylinder sleeves are installed and bored to
3.5009. The sleeves are installed .0089 proud of the deck
and machined to accept .0419 thick stainless steel o-rings.
All cylinder head, main, and girdle bolt holes are machined
to accept ten 1⁄29 studs. These 9uni-bolts9 extend the entire
height of the engine, from the girdle through the head.
(Fig. 82)
The main journals are line-honed to 2.5225-2.52359.
The block is machined to accept piston oil squirters for
cooling. In applications where piston squirters are not
used, these holes must be plugged or oil pressure loss will
occur.
The factory crankshaft position location hole is tapped to
-08AN thread and plugged. The oil filter boss is removed
from the block. This can be done on a mill or with a
sawzall. A female -10 ORB fitting is welded on the block.
For wet sump applications, both oil in and oil out are used.
For dry sump applications, plug the oil out hole.
The block deck is machined to fit larger cylinder head
alignment dowels. The new dowels measure .6759 tall,
.6309 O.D., .5159 I.D.
The front two oil galleries are plugged with 1⁄29 steel plugs
or tapped for 9/16-189 threaded rod.
The girdle is installed using extreme pressure lube. Bolts
are torqued to 15 ft. lbs.
Five sets of uni-bolts are assembled. Two bolts are
threaded by hand into a connecting strap using green
Loctite. Thread protrusion on the under-side of the strap is
11⁄2-2 threads. (Fig. 83) Loctite is allowed to set over night.
Uni-bolt assemblies are installed from the bottom through
the girdle and block. The uni-bolts will protrude above the
top of the block to attach the engine head assembly. Head
straps shown in (Fig. 84)
ECOTEC block used in the L61, LE5, LNF, and LSJ engine
variants. This block is cast from aluminum using a lost
foam process. For applications ranging from 400 to 800
hp, a production block that has been screened for cracks,
high porosity, or other imperfections and re-sleeved with a
high-quality aftermarket iron sleeve is acceptable. This
block can be flat-decked for use with the production head
gasket up to 600 hp or an after-market mutli-layer head
gasket up to 800 hp.
For applications above 800 hp, the GM Racing modified
block XGH679 is used. (Fig. 81) While some of the
features of this block are not necessary at horsepower
levels between 800 hp and 1200 hp, the features increase
block longevity at any power level. The modifications and
checks made to the original production cylinder block
include:
The Zyglo system is used to check for cracks and
imperfections in the engine block.
All oil gallery plugs are removed to clean and inspect all
passages.
The stock cylinder sleeves are machined out and new
nodular iron cylinder sleeves are installed and bored to
3.5009. The sleeves are installed .0089 proud of the deck
and machined to accept .0419 thick stainless steel o-rings.
All cylinder head, main, and girdle bolt holes are machined
to accept ten 1⁄29 studs. These 9uni-bolts9 extend the entire
height of the engine, from the girdle through the head.
(Fig. 82)
The main journals are line-honed to 2.5225-2.52359.
The block is machined to accept piston oil squirters for
cooling. In applications where piston squirters are not
used, these holes must be plugged or oil pressure loss will
occur.
The factory crankshaft position location hole is tapped to
-08AN thread and plugged. The oil filter boss is removed
from the block. This can be done on a mill or with a
sawzall. A female -10 ORB fitting is welded on the block.
For wet sump applications, both oil in and oil out are used.
For dry sump applications, plug the oil out hole.
The block deck is machined to fit larger cylinder head
alignment dowels. The new dowels measure .6759 tall,
.6309 O.D., .5159 I.D.
The front two oil galleries are plugged with 1⁄29 steel plugs
or tapped for 9/16-189 threaded rod.
The girdle is installed using extreme pressure lube. Bolts
are torqued to 15 ft. lbs.
Five sets of uni-bolts are assembled. Two bolts are
threaded by hand into a connecting strap using green
Loctite. Thread protrusion on the under-side of the strap is
11⁄2-2 threads. (Fig. 83) Loctite is allowed to set over night.
Uni-bolt assemblies are installed from the bottom through
the girdle and block. The uni-bolts will protrude above the
top of the block to attach the engine head assembly. Head
straps shown in (Fig. 84)
XGH679
in case you wanted to buy one
04-23-2009, 03:50 PM
#75
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Thread wasn't intended to be a joke really...I don't have 6k to throw at it immediately but I do have about a grand left over every mo after bills...only reason I financed the cobalt is because when I bought it I was working at walmart...is not the case anylonger....whtever guys, was lookin for serious ideas but honestly ind of made me feel like ****...I started the thread off saying I dont know much about cars, this is true....how should a reg person know what kind of car 400hp is attainable on... Ill just do the bolt on **** than... new mani, new intake, exahoust, ecu tune..call it a day...