xCobalt05x

Just wanted to provide my research to anyone that is wanting to put this in their 2.2L cobalt

For the 05 2.2L cobalts i have the wires from the Injectors, Crank Sensor, Ignition switch, O2 sensor's, TSP and MAF sensor all broke down by color and what color they change to at each connector (if they changed that is) all the way to the ECU. I have compiled schematics of the wireing harnesses and connector locations.

More amplifying info for AEM fule/ignition controller wires that can be eliminated: The 2.2L cobalt DOSE NOT have a Cam Position sensor so these wires can be eliminated. The Crank sensor is Mag so the Hall wires can be eliminated. The TPS has 2 sensors, not sure which one to use but im pretty sure TPS number 1. The injector wires for 5 and 6 injectors can be eliminated unless you are adding injectors vice replacing the factory ones with larger injectors.

RedBaseBolt

Keep us posted on more info!

You should post this in the Tuning section with a few pics if you have them.. there will be MANY 2.2 guys including myself that will be very thankfull.

YellowLT

Share the wealth PEEZE

Sw4y1313

I dont think it will matter which TPS wire you use, because our TPS system has 2 wires. 1 is a 0 - 100% and the other is 100 - 0%. Meaning one goes 0 - 5volt. When you first start the car up with the FIC installed you MUST calibrate it. It wants you to have the car in the ON position, not started, then you have to calibrate it for 0% throttle, then 100% throttle. For us Drive-by-wire cars, we may need to power the car on breifly, hit 100% throttle, click the calibrate button on the AEM software, then power down the car. I would recommend NOT having your larger injectors and FI installed until you have the AEM FIC installed and calibrated on your car.

EDIT: The reason i said it shouldnt matter which TPS wire to tap, is because when you calibrate you the FIC, when your at 0% throttle and you hit OK, it will read either 0 or 5 volts and it will set that # as 0% throttle, then when you set 100% throttle, it will do the same. So it SHOULDNT matter which TPS wire you tap. But then again the FIC may only work 0 - 5. So then you will need a volt meter to figure out which ones which.

balt21

very good info, keep us updated

FacelessKhaos

the 07 cobalt DOES have a cam position sensor though...thought i would throw that out there

xCobalt05x

I did have to pay for the schematics but they were dirt cheap.

I'll see if i cant get this thread moved

Good info. I do have schematics for 06 and 05 cobalt 2.2L. the 07 schematics are not out yet

RedBaseBolt

How much are we talking here?

And from where?

Sw4y1313

In the tuning section theres a pinout for the 05-06 L61 under the Pinouts Sticky. FREE

xCobalt05x

i didnt know there was a pinout on here, that sucks. i just paid $24 at alldatadiy.com for the schematics a few days ago

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

wow...this info helps a lot. this is some of the info ive been trying to get out ofr sway for a while now...but he seems to be busy with his new engine

all i need is a wiring diagram

misfitcobalt

got my aem FIC tuesday going to start wiring in up tonight i got all my wiring diagrams from alldata from work once i am done with them i will scan them for ya

Sw4y1313

Yeah im sorry bro, i have been busy and i finally picked up some pistons/rods. So ill be forged in the next 2 weeks.

IonNinja

I'd recommend using the primary TPS sensor...when connecting my Zex kit to the secondary TPS we got some weird results with how the nitrous sprayed (as in there was a delayed signal before the throttle would fully close) so I would recommend the primary TPS. All its looking for though is a 0-5v signal so...

xCobalt05x

i have some updated info,

If anyone is wanting to swap out for larger injectors that require splicing pig tails. ZZP.com has a wiring harness that is already pre spliced but, yes there is a but lol, you will have to RE-PIN the connector. It is pinned for the LSJ. I just used the wiring diagrams and re pinned the connector to plug and play with the 2.2L injector harness

o3nisoaso3

subscribed

RedBaseBolt

I just ordered the AEM-FIC today!!!

07cobaltguy

dumb question but, is there anyway once FIC is hooked up, that you would be able to persay turn it "off", to run off the stock computer while leaving FIC still wired in? Just incase you need to go back to your stock parts.

RedBaseBolt

Yeah pull power to it I would assume. Since it's just a piggyback you can most likely keep it wired up but not have power going to it and your car should technically run as if it wasn't there...

correct me if I'm wrong plz.

xCobalt05x

no, the FIC is hard wired to the car. you would have to un wire it and re splice the wires back together. which in turn VOIDS the warranty. if that is what you were refering to


Quoting redbasebolt
Yeah pull power to it I would assume. Since it's just a piggyback you can most likely keep it wired up but not have power going to it and your car should technically run as if it wasn't there...

correct me if I'm wrong plz.


once you hook it up the car will run like it did before you installed it, if you get all the wires connected to the right places.

RedBaseBolt

Well there ya go. put me in my place!

xCobalt05x

i also neeed to add that once you have this hooked up you will need to take the car for a test run. under normal stop and go driving like a good little driver and then on to the interstate to hard acceleration to 55mph or what ever your highway speed limit is. data log all that info. then look at what you logged to see what the max MAF voltage was and enter that in as your clamp voltage value. you will have to hook up the factory MAP sensor to one of the auxilary signals/wires on the FIC. this will allow you to to clamp the factory MAP so that the factory computer wont see the extra pressure in the manifold (if you are going to turbocharge the car that is). then use the FIC's MAP to adjust your fuel curve. if you can get a hold of a OBDII scaning tool you can moniter the fuel curve the factory computer is using. while tuning the FIC try to keep the scanning values you are getting at 0. a positive number means you need to add fuel and a negative number means you need to remove fuel (refering to the scanned fuel curve value being read from the OBDII tool)

Keep the AFR as close to 14:1 as possible. i havent seen what our computers put out for an AFR when you stomp on it (yet). But when you find out that number try to keep that WOT AFR value as close to the stock value as possible (this isnt good for getting the MOST power available by tuning to 14:1, but it will help to keep you from throwing a CEL)

this info im getting is coming from AEM tech's on their forums. they have been most helpful with me so that when i get back to the states i wont mess sH-- up and brake my $6,000 motor. LOL

RedBaseBolt

xCobalt05x you need to make a How-To about the installation and wiring for us.

You seem to know a lot about tuning and any tips would be appreciated since I just ordered the AEM-FIC.

o3nisoaso3

I ordered the F/IC a few days ago and should get in tomorrow or the friday. How do you hook it up?

exiged

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