1LowLS

What are you guys torquing your ARP 7/16ths head studs to?????LSJ should be the same as well.Manufacturer recommendations or???

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

i usually go to 90 ft/lbs. the specs call for 85 i think but i do it in increments of 3. 30 ft lbs then 60 ft lbs then 90 ft lbs in the correct TORQUE SEQUENCE.

Allgood Customs

iTrader: (5)

mine said 18 pounds then 150 degrees

1LowLS

For ARM studs^^???

I actually found it on ARP's site. 3 pass's of 80 ft lbs in the correct sequence.

bluebalt07

iTrader: (8)

That's the stock head bolts and it's actually 22 ft lbs plus 155 degrees

That's it. I went 40, 60, 80 in the sequence and holds perfect.

Allgood Customs

iTrader: (5)

just retorqued mine

BankerBalt

Did anyone have a problem where not all of them were at the same height when finger tightening them? Almost like the threads got stretched?

OttawaMark

iTrader: (3)

Some probably just didn't bottom out in the block.

1LowLS

I used a allen wrench on a 3/8 drive to put them in the block but didn't torque them.Just put them in loosely with the socket but they are all the way down and even.

BankerBalt

see, mine are all going down different depths. and it's really bugging me because i wouldn't want to **** up a tap...

OttawaMark

iTrader: (3)

I've read they go in until they bottom out and the back off 1/4 turn, if they are different heights you need to tap em good and slow.

BankerBalt

anyone got any recommendations? either heat/cool the studs and fit them in or should i tap the holes in the block with a 7/16 thread?

edit: what type of tap would you recommend because i've been told most taps don't go that far down...

1LowLS

I didn't have to tap mine at all

OttawaMark

iTrader: (3)

My head was off, had no problems tapping. I'm guessing your head is still on the block?

BankerBalt

Nope. Head off, engines been out of the car for 4 months lol