bad brakes on the 2.2...what can we do?
#26
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I just have a hard time thinking is a defect with the star wheel. I mean... there's really not much there to mess up. basically one fork that screws into another fork with a spring-loaded arm to keep it from backing off. If there was a problem anywhere I'd expect it to be with the wheel cylinders not expanding evenly.
#27
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Fixed all the issues you described above. With new rotars and pads the problem never went away. A shaky brake was here to stay it seemed until it occurred to me to check the back drums. The shoes were not as tight as they should be. The ratchet gear was stuck and not tightening up the shoes it should have. I played with the ratchet gear until it wasn't as stiff and then ratchet up the shoes so they are snug on the back drums. I then put my wheels back on and I haven't has a braking issue since.
Incase you didn't know how back drums work I'll tell you. Every time you back up the ratchet should click a few times. This spring loaded mechanism is a simple design that is on many, many cars and most mechanics often look past them. If the ratchet is stuck momentarily the shoe will not tighten up against the drum so your back wheels will not be braking the way they should be.
The computer will detect this, I don't know if slippage is detected in the back wheels but maybe or the front has to compensate for the crappy braking in the back. The ABS kicks in and your car shutters and shakes like a bitch. It took me two weeks to solve this problem I had.
Incase you didn't know how back drums work I'll tell you. Every time you back up the ratchet should click a few times. This spring loaded mechanism is a simple design that is on many, many cars and most mechanics often look past them. If the ratchet is stuck momentarily the shoe will not tighten up against the drum so your back wheels will not be braking the way they should be.
The computer will detect this, I don't know if slippage is detected in the back wheels but maybe or the front has to compensate for the crappy braking in the back. The ABS kicks in and your car shutters and shakes like a bitch. It took me two weeks to solve this problem I had.
#28
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After that ordeal I think I can handle my cobalts. lawl
#29
Read this.
http://www.baer.com/technical/braking-202/index.php
Properly braking in your rotors and pads is critical.
Most "warping", especially when the parts are relatively new, is actually a buildup of pad material on the rotors because the pads have not been bedded.
As many have said here already, regular cleaning and adjustment of the rear drums is very important so that you do not overwork the front brakes. I pop the brakes hard at least once a day in reverse to try to keep the rears adjusted. Cleaning them regularily is a great thing to do.
http://www.baer.com/technical/braking-202/index.php
Properly braking in your rotors and pads is critical.
Most "warping", especially when the parts are relatively new, is actually a buildup of pad material on the rotors because the pads have not been bedded.
As many have said here already, regular cleaning and adjustment of the rear drums is very important so that you do not overwork the front brakes. I pop the brakes hard at least once a day in reverse to try to keep the rears adjusted. Cleaning them regularily is a great thing to do.
Last edited by craig; 08-11-2007 at 06:14 AM. Reason: Usrd wrong word by mistake
#31
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I'm sure there are plenty of companies that make big brake kits for our cars. Personally I'd stay away from the drilled slotted rotors unless you want the show aspect of it. The fact that you can't turn them and they tend to warp and crack easily makes it a big hassle.
I'm not sure if the front brakes on the ss/sc are bigger diameter wise or not. But it would be a good first place to check. It would be pretty easy to slap some larger diameter rotors on with the same bolt pattern but you have to get the caliper to bolt up as well...
That said... you really don't need a heavier duty brake system unless you're adding alot of weight to the car or rotational mass to the hub(bigger heavier wheels). The brakes on your car stock have been tested and designed by professionals to make sure it's the calibur necessary to stop your car on demand. Our stock brakes work great... There's just a few bugs to work out.
I'm not sure if the front brakes on the ss/sc are bigger diameter wise or not. But it would be a good first place to check. It would be pretty easy to slap some larger diameter rotors on with the same bolt pattern but you have to get the caliper to bolt up as well...
That said... you really don't need a heavier duty brake system unless you're adding alot of weight to the car or rotational mass to the hub(bigger heavier wheels). The brakes on your car stock have been tested and designed by professionals to make sure it's the calibur necessary to stop your car on demand. Our stock brakes work great... There's just a few bugs to work out.
#35
i have a 2.4 and have the same problem...i just recently got it fixed for the second time by the dealer i guess its under warranty for mine...all they do is resurface the rotors and the problem reoccurs in a few thousand miles. My friend has the same car as me and went n got it fixed 9 different times they even rebuilt the whole brake system and it still happened. Once it happens again for me im sueing them and then im gonna get the drilled n slotted rotors because thats all the problem is. I think the rotors are to big for the car or something.
#37
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had my car in for inspection the other day. they told me i had a pulsation in my brakes, i said yeha no ****! i tried to get you to fix it before.
this time i got some action. my rotors were re-surfaced under warranty! woot woot!
this time i got some action. my rotors were re-surfaced under warranty! woot woot!
#38
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my steering wheel shakes everyonce and while under braking,.... so i mean thats one of my problems... i can feel the shaking in the petal also... oh well... i know my car is fine....They do make a brake kit for our cars.... look for it
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