Best/Most Efficient Engine Mods
11-24-2009, 07:37 AM
#52
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okay so im still thinking about that part, but as for an exhaust, how big is a decent size exhaust without being considered a 'ricer' not that it matters, i'm just wondering. : )
11-24-2009, 07:49 AM
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errrmmmm the 2.2 internals can handle more then 250hp specially if you've done it correctly, cooled it properly etc. My 2.2 is running a 2.8, 60lb injectors, dual pass, oversized heat exchanger, and meth injected... no problems and it's been like this for months. My fuel economy also increased by 5mpg and I seem to be getting an extra 100 miles to the tank.
11-24-2009, 07:49 AM
#54
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trade it in, get an SS. You can find them for 10grand if you look hard enough, use the 5000$ to either pay it off, or put into upgrades, you'll be alot happier in the end either way. A turbo in your 2.2 may add more power then a stock SS, but you also already have the suspension package that come stock in the SS, and more potential for greater power with the already better parts.
11-24-2009, 08:37 AM
#55
For a stock 2.2, I'd look into just getting an SS/SC's stock exhaust.
For a S/C 2.2L, I'd probably go with something 2.25"-2.5". I was extremely happy with the sound of my GMPP cat-back.
For a Turbo 2.2L, I'd go 3".
11-24-2009, 09:24 AM
#56
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trade it in, get an SS. You can find them for 10grand if you look hard enough, use the 5000$ to either pay it off, or put into upgrades, you'll be alot happier in the end either way. A turbo in your 2.2 may add more power then a stock SS, but you also already have the suspension package that come stock in the SS, and more potential for greater power with the already better parts.
11-25-2009, 12:46 AM
#57
errrmmmm the 2.2 internals can handle more then 250hp specially if you've done it correctly, cooled it properly etc. My 2.2 is running a 2.8, 60lb injectors, dual pass, oversized heat exchanger, and meth injected... no problems and it's been like this for months. My fuel economy also increased by 5mpg and I seem to be getting an extra 100 miles to the tank.
11-25-2009, 08:02 AM
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But that's like saying your car wont last as long under 250 as it would 150. I agree there is definitely a limit before the rods and what not let go, but I don't see why it would be an issue up to 300.
And of course it's always better to be safe then sorry so if you can afford to do internals right away and want to have your power exceed the safe zone then go for it. I would also say how the person drives effects it to. A motor that has a fairly passive driver is going to last longer under higher HP/TQ then one would who has a driver who is in boost all the time, beats the **** out of it on a regular basis, goes to the track weekly etc.
So I guess really, it all depends on the circumstance. For the most part I'ma passive driver and my car is a DD. I take it to work and back and unless I need the power to get infront of someone I don't really go into boost.
And of course it's always better to be safe then sorry so if you can afford to do internals right away and want to have your power exceed the safe zone then go for it. I would also say how the person drives effects it to. A motor that has a fairly passive driver is going to last longer under higher HP/TQ then one would who has a driver who is in boost all the time, beats the **** out of it on a regular basis, goes to the track weekly etc.
So I guess really, it all depends on the circumstance. For the most part I'ma passive driver and my car is a DD. I take it to work and back and unless I need the power to get infront of someone I don't really go into boost.
11-25-2009, 05:25 PM
#60
But that's like saying your car wont last as long under 250 as it would 150. I agree there is definitely a limit before the rods and what not let go, but I don't see why it would be an issue up to 300.
And of course it's always better to be safe then sorry so if you can afford to do internals right away and want to have your power exceed the safe zone then go for it. I would also say how the person drives effects it to. A motor that has a fairly passive driver is going to last longer under higher HP/TQ then one would who has a driver who is in boost all the time, beats the **** out of it on a regular basis, goes to the track weekly etc.
So I guess really, it all depends on the circumstance. For the most part I'ma passive driver and my car is a DD. I take it to work and back and unless I need the power to get infront of someone I don't really go into boost.
And of course it's always better to be safe then sorry so if you can afford to do internals right away and want to have your power exceed the safe zone then go for it. I would also say how the person drives effects it to. A motor that has a fairly passive driver is going to last longer under higher HP/TQ then one would who has a driver who is in boost all the time, beats the **** out of it on a regular basis, goes to the track weekly etc.
So I guess really, it all depends on the circumstance. For the most part I'ma passive driver and my car is a DD. I take it to work and back and unless I need the power to get infront of someone I don't really go into boost.
11-25-2009, 07:26 PM
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not necessarily true....
the most important thing to consider is whether your operating within the operational limits of the materials at hand. which, in the l61's case, finds it's maximum around 260-270hp. the 250hp rod breakage from use of nitrous should be just that, a breakage as result of nitrous.
yes, any mechanical device will break faster with increased wear-and-tear. if your F/I and still giving your car WOT pulls daily, and haven't begun to shift towards lower rpm's, most definitely it will break sooner. Just the same as if you took a non F/I car and ran the **** out of it all the time.
the most important thing to consider is whether your operating within the operational limits of the materials at hand. which, in the l61's case, finds it's maximum around 260-270hp. the 250hp rod breakage from use of nitrous should be just that, a breakage as result of nitrous.
yes, any mechanical device will break faster with increased wear-and-tear. if your F/I and still giving your car WOT pulls daily, and haven't begun to shift towards lower rpm's, most definitely it will break sooner. Just the same as if you took a non F/I car and ran the **** out of it all the time.
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