best ways to put more ponies in my 2.2 without boost?
#51
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Originally Posted by afireinside1582
yeah, stayin' n/a... if/when i have the funds i would like to go
injen cai
pacesetter header
gmpp touring exhaust
high flow cat
ecu retune (when available)
nkg sparkplugs and wires
injen cai
pacesetter header
gmpp touring exhaust
high flow cat
ecu retune (when available)
nkg sparkplugs and wires
#52
im gonna guess you will be close to 195-200bhp, another member on here had a few less mods and pumped out those numbers. consider cams, they would prob bring that number up a bit. stage 1 requires no reflash.
im gonna ask the question since i dont think anyone else will....if we actually had the retune software from hp tuners, what would be the diff between hooking up a laptop and tuning and using a fmu?
im gonna ask the question since i dont think anyone else will....if we actually had the retune software from hp tuners, what would be the diff between hooking up a laptop and tuning and using a fmu?
#53
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Say no to NJK and yes to Nology Silver
Nology Silver spark plugs are resistorless. They allow full spark energy to be transmitted to the plug gap. Also, silver is the best conductor. For more information: http://nology.com
I just purchased the coil-on-plug conversion kit. I am going to install the kit which utilizes a remote mounted coil, hotwires, and I have Silver plugs. I got a deal on my kit b/c apparently it is going to be discontinued. It can still be found on a few sites.
I just purchased the coil-on-plug conversion kit. I am going to install the kit which utilizes a remote mounted coil, hotwires, and I have Silver plugs. I got a deal on my kit b/c apparently it is going to be discontinued. It can still be found on a few sites.
#55
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Originally Posted by Roadrunner
im gonna guess you will be close to 195-200bhp, another member on here had a few less mods and pumped out those numbers. consider cams, they would prob bring that number up a bit. stage 1 requires no reflash.
im gonna ask the question since i dont think anyone else will....if we actually had the retune software from hp tuners, what would be the diff between hooking up a laptop and tuning and using a fmu?
im gonna ask the question since i dont think anyone else will....if we actually had the retune software from hp tuners, what would be the diff between hooking up a laptop and tuning and using a fmu?
Also, BHP means nothing, WHP means everything.
To answer your question:
The HP Tuners device is more percise as far as letting you change pretty much every perameter and control that your computer has control over. From changing the duty cycle on your injectors to change your ignition timing to change your shift points (if you're an automatic).
With an FMU, it's all done physically, not electronically. An FMU works off of vac/boost pressure and it works on a ratio. It's job is to increase the pressure inside your fuel rail by restricting the return side of your fuel system. FMUs run off a ratio of fuel, the higher the ratio, the higher the fuel pressure per PSI inside your fuel rail. There are all different types of FMUs...some that are single ratio'd (example: 6:1 or you buy one that is 12:1) or you have FMUs like a Cartech FMU that is adjustable from 1:1 to 12:1 ratio.
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...you are correct, i was unaware of the wires. i havent really been into cars until i got my cobalt about a year ago. before that, i had a '92 accord, and i really didnt want to be some punk ricer so i didnt do anything to it. right now im just trying to learn everything i can. i dont want to go F/I or N2O. this is my daily driver that i will be taking to college this fall.
anyways, somebody said something about adjustable cams? or higher compression pistons?
anyways, somebody said something about adjustable cams? or higher compression pistons?
#58
Originally Posted by NJHK
195-200 BHP? I think far from it...you're talking about a full exhaust upgrade, some plugs and wires (which I wouldn't really advice to make the conversion...) and a simple ECU reflash to change the fuel curve a little bit (by what company btw?). With those modifications, he won't be adding 55-65 Horsepower over stock. This is the type of gains forced induction does...not something with simple bolt ons.
Also, BHP means nothing, WHP means everything.
To answer your question:
The HP Tuners device is more percise as far as letting you change pretty much every perameter and control that your computer has control over. From changing the duty cycle on your injectors to change your ignition timing to change your shift points (if you're an automatic).
With an FMU, it's all done physically, not electronically. An FMU works off of vac/boost pressure and it works on a ratio. It's job is to increase the pressure inside your fuel rail by restricting the return side of your fuel system. FMUs run off a ratio of fuel, the higher the ratio, the higher the fuel pressure per PSI inside your fuel rail. There are all different types of FMUs...some that are single ratio'd (example: 6:1 or you buy one that is 12:1) or you have FMUs like a Cartech FMU that is adjustable from 1:1 to 12:1 ratio.
Also, BHP means nothing, WHP means everything.
To answer your question:
The HP Tuners device is more percise as far as letting you change pretty much every perameter and control that your computer has control over. From changing the duty cycle on your injectors to change your ignition timing to change your shift points (if you're an automatic).
With an FMU, it's all done physically, not electronically. An FMU works off of vac/boost pressure and it works on a ratio. It's job is to increase the pressure inside your fuel rail by restricting the return side of your fuel system. FMUs run off a ratio of fuel, the higher the ratio, the higher the fuel pressure per PSI inside your fuel rail. There are all different types of FMUs...some that are single ratio'd (example: 6:1 or you buy one that is 12:1) or you have FMUs like a Cartech FMU that is adjustable from 1:1 to 12:1 ratio.
where the heck is traviskearny, he had 191bhp on his cav without nitrous, i will post the link when i can find it
sorry but i will come back with a reply to the fmu vs a retune tomorrow when im sober.
nitey nite
#59
actually I believe he dynoed at 150whp and even on a 20% drivetrain loss (auto tranny) thats about 180 crank HP.
the reason I believe NJHK said bhp means nothing is because you aren't actually putting that power down to the ground...
the reason I believe NJHK said bhp means nothing is because you aren't actually putting that power down to the ground...
#60
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Roadrunner
whp varies with bhp, whp is easier to get than bhp on an engine. are you going to tell me that an engine putting out 200 bhp could have less at the wheels than an engine with 150 bhp? with simmilar transmissions i dont think so
where the heck is traviskearny, he had 191bhp on his cav without nitrous, i will post the link when i can find it
sorry but i will come back with a reply to the fmu vs a retune tomorrow when im sober.
nitey nite
where the heck is traviskearny, he had 191bhp on his cav without nitrous, i will post the link when i can find it
sorry but i will come back with a reply to the fmu vs a retune tomorrow when im sober.
nitey nite
Originally Posted by Wikipedia
Brake horsepower (bhp) is the measure of an engine's horsepower without the loss in power caused by the gearbox, generator, differential, water pump and other auxiliaries. The actual horsepower delivered to the driving wheels is less. An engine would have to be retested to obtain a rating in another system
Of course a car with 200 BHP is going to have more WHP than a car with 150 BHP if they have similar transmissions (same amount of % drivetrain loss, same amount of gears, similar gearing ratios). No one is arguing this. I think you're totally missing my point. You're telling someone they are going to gain 55-65 BHP from just a few bolt ons. If it was that easy, everyone would be running mid-high 14s in the 1/4 with about $1000-1200 spent.
#61
Senior Member
Originally Posted by IonNinja
the reason I believe NJHK said bhp means nothing is because you aren't actually putting that power down to the ground...
Originally Posted by IonNinja
actually I believe he dynoed at 150whp and even on a 20% drivetrain loss (auto tranny) thats about 180 crank HP.
#62
takin directly from his sig (traviskearney):
2005 Chevrolet Cavalier
2415 lbs.
150.4whp/222.0whp
AEM Cold Air Intake
Airaid TB Spacer
DC Sport Ceramic Header
Catback 2.5" Into Dual 3" Out NOPI Carbon Fiber Exhaust
Zex Wet Kit
18" Konig Tuner II Rims
18" Ventus HR II Tires
Dropzone 2" Lowering Springs
Tokico Sport Struts
Tokico Sport Shocks
Tokico Front And Rear Tower Braces
VIS Carbon Fiber Hood
Tsudo Carbon Fiber Spoiler
Second OEM Deck Lid For Custom Spoiler Install
AVS Smoke Headlight Covers
Custom 1200 Watt Pioneer Stereo System
15% Window Tint
N/A his dyno sounds a little high IMO but who knows...
2005 Chevrolet Cavalier
2415 lbs.
150.4whp/222.0whp
AEM Cold Air Intake
Airaid TB Spacer
DC Sport Ceramic Header
Catback 2.5" Into Dual 3" Out NOPI Carbon Fiber Exhaust
Zex Wet Kit
18" Konig Tuner II Rims
18" Ventus HR II Tires
Dropzone 2" Lowering Springs
Tokico Sport Struts
Tokico Sport Shocks
Tokico Front And Rear Tower Braces
VIS Carbon Fiber Hood
Tsudo Carbon Fiber Spoiler
Second OEM Deck Lid For Custom Spoiler Install
AVS Smoke Headlight Covers
Custom 1200 Watt Pioneer Stereo System
15% Window Tint
N/A his dyno sounds a little high IMO but who knows...
#63
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ight=2.2L+dyno
i understand what BHP is, read my post. reread my post and post another two definitions please. if you want to make it WHP, fine, i will guess on an auto 155-160 with cams, hows that?
bhp - losses = whp does it not Adam?
assuming 20% lost,
bhp - 20%*bhp = whp
so whp would vary with bhp would it not Adam?
so lets say he had 191.4 Bhp rather than 180,
191.4 X .2 (the 20% drivetrain losses) = 38.28hp
191.4 - 38.28hp = 153.12hp
lets say 180hp like posted
180hp X .2 = 36hp
180hp - 36hp = 144hp
check your calculations for losses, but try 188hp for travis (close enough to make what he says is true IMO), then remember that the cobalt 2.2 has 5 more hp and i thought these came from not having a power steering pump on the engine.
ok well then go get your engine dynoed for bhp instead of whp. does it make sense that its easier to set up the entire car on a dyno, rather than pull the engine or do you disagree?
someone please post typical drivetrain losses for auto vs manual, this number has been varying so much lately. i have always assumed 20% for auto and 13% for manual
Originally Posted by NJHK
You understand what BHP is right?
bhp - losses = whp does it not Adam?
assuming 20% lost,
bhp - 20%*bhp = whp
so whp would vary with bhp would it not Adam?
so lets say he had 191.4 Bhp rather than 180,
191.4 X .2 (the 20% drivetrain losses) = 38.28hp
191.4 - 38.28hp = 153.12hp
lets say 180hp like posted
180hp X .2 = 36hp
180hp - 36hp = 144hp
check your calculations for losses, but try 188hp for travis (close enough to make what he says is true IMO), then remember that the cobalt 2.2 has 5 more hp and i thought these came from not having a power steering pump on the engine.
Originally Posted by NJHK
So to your comment of "whp is easier to get than bhp on an engine" makes no sense.
someone please post typical drivetrain losses for auto vs manual, this number has been varying so much lately. i have always assumed 20% for auto and 13% for manual
#64
just to make it easier I use 15% for manual and 20% for auto.
you're also coming up with a different number because you are taking bhp and then subtracting it by 20%. Since we technically don't know crank hp and only wheel hp, I added 20% to the wheel hp figure and it gives you a different number.
150WHP + 20% = 180WHP
edit:
and for an auto transmission that seems awefully high anyway...because you figure on a manual tranny you're going to dyno even higher with just bolt ons. Thats like a 35-40WHP gain off basically intake/header/exhaust.
you're also coming up with a different number because you are taking bhp and then subtracting it by 20%. Since we technically don't know crank hp and only wheel hp, I added 20% to the wheel hp figure and it gives you a different number.
150WHP + 20% = 180WHP
edit:
and for an auto transmission that seems awefully high anyway...because you figure on a manual tranny you're going to dyno even higher with just bolt ons. Thats like a 35-40WHP gain off basically intake/header/exhaust.
#65
Senior Member
Originally Posted by RoadRunner
ok well then go get your engine dynoed for bhp instead of whp. does it make sense that its easier to set up the entire car on a dyno, rather than pull the engine or do you disagree?
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Originally Posted by IonNinja
just to make it easier I use 15% for manual and 20% for auto.
you're also coming up with a different number because you are taking bhp and then subtracting it by 20%. Since we technically don't know crank hp and only wheel hp, I added 20% to the wheel hp figure and it gives you a different number.
150WHP + 20% = 180WHP
edit:
and for an auto transmission that seems awefully high anyway...because you figure on a manual tranny you're going to dyno even higher with just bolt ons. Thats like a 35-40WHP gain off basically intake/header/exhaust.
you're also coming up with a different number because you are taking bhp and then subtracting it by 20%. Since we technically don't know crank hp and only wheel hp, I added 20% to the wheel hp figure and it gives you a different number.
150WHP + 20% = 180WHP
edit:
and for an auto transmission that seems awefully high anyway...because you figure on a manual tranny you're going to dyno even higher with just bolt ons. Thats like a 35-40WHP gain off basically intake/header/exhaust.
#68
and if you don't know bhp?
I'm not sure what the difference in my math and yours is...if I subtract 20% from 188HP I get the same number as you do.
the point I'm making is that when you jump on a dyno you don't get bhp figures, you get whp figures so you have to add the % of drivetrain loss to your whp figure to get your bhp number.
I'm not sure what the difference in my math and yours is...if I subtract 20% from 188HP I get the same number as you do.
the point I'm making is that when you jump on a dyno you don't get bhp figures, you get whp figures so you have to add the % of drivetrain loss to your whp figure to get your bhp number.
#69
Senior Member
Originally Posted by IonNinja
and if you don't know bhp?
I'm not sure what the difference in my math and yours is...if I subtract 20% from 188HP I get the same number as you do.
the point I'm making is that when you jump on a dyno you don't get bhp figures, you get whp figures so you have to add the % of drivetrain loss to your whp figure to get your bhp number.
I'm not sure what the difference in my math and yours is...if I subtract 20% from 188HP I get the same number as you do.
the point I'm making is that when you jump on a dyno you don't get bhp figures, you get whp figures so you have to add the % of drivetrain loss to your whp figure to get your bhp number.
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Originally Posted by IonNinja
and if you don't know bhp?
I'm not sure what the difference in my math and yours is...if I subtract 20% from 188HP I get the same number as you do.
the point I'm making is that when you jump on a dyno you don't get bhp figures, you get whp figures so you have to add the % of drivetrain loss to your whp figure to get your bhp number.
I'm not sure what the difference in my math and yours is...if I subtract 20% from 188HP I get the same number as you do.
the point I'm making is that when you jump on a dyno you don't get bhp figures, you get whp figures so you have to add the % of drivetrain loss to your whp figure to get your bhp number.
I know that. I'm just saying you can't add 20% of the whp figure to get the bhp figure. You don't get the correct result that way; that's not how it works. Gotta use your algebra.
In other words:
WHP is 80% of BHP (BHP is 100% and 20% less is 80% of BHP = WHP)
WHP/ 0.8 = BHP
So use this equation:
WHP / L = BHP
where WHP is obtained on a chasis dyno
L is 100 - % drivetrain loss expressed as a decimal ie 15% loss = 100 - 15 = 85 = 0.85 in equation
Does that help??
Last edited by CobaltCoupeCrazy; 05-07-2006 at 10:49 AM.
#71
actually no
because when I do that calculation I get a smaller number than my whp figure...just like if I started with a bhp figure and was trying to figure out my whp. Not the other way around like it should be.
And again if I do hp x 0.8 = hp I still get the same result as hp - 20% = hp
I can understand how adding a % to a figure to find out bhp may come out different but when working with an already established bhp number and just subtracting a percent from that to calculate whp...the numbers seem to be right on.
because when I do that calculation I get a smaller number than my whp figure...just like if I started with a bhp figure and was trying to figure out my whp. Not the other way around like it should be.
And again if I do hp x 0.8 = hp I still get the same result as hp - 20% = hp
I can understand how adding a % to a figure to find out bhp may come out different but when working with an already established bhp number and just subtracting a percent from that to calculate whp...the numbers seem to be right on.
#72
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Originally Posted by IonNinja
actually no
because when I do that calculation I get a smaller number than my whp figure...just like if I started with a bhp figure and was trying to figure out my whp. Not the other way around like it should be.
And again if I do hp x 0.8 = hp I still get the same result as hp - 20% = hp
I can understand how adding a % to a figure to find out bhp may come out different but when working with an already established bhp number and just subtracting a percent from that to calculate whp...the numbers seem to be right on.
because when I do that calculation I get a smaller number than my whp figure...just like if I started with a bhp figure and was trying to figure out my whp. Not the other way around like it should be.
And again if I do hp x 0.8 = hp I still get the same result as hp - 20% = hp
I can understand how adding a % to a figure to find out bhp may come out different but when working with an already established bhp number and just subtracting a percent from that to calculate whp...the numbers seem to be right on.
I so screwed that up when I wrote it.
Here is an example with #'s:
180BHP - (180x.2) = WHP
180 - 36 =WHP
1144 = WHP
144WHP/.8 = BHP
180 = BHP
You are supposed to divide by the .8!! My fault I'll change the equation. LOL Had it right wrote it down wrong.
But to show you the difference:
144 WHP + 144 *.2 = 172.8BHP This is why you can not just take 20% of the whp and add it to whp to get bhp.
#73
Originally Posted by Roadrunner
whp varies with bhp, whp is easier to get than bhp on an engine.
Originally Posted by NJHK
The way you worded your sentence wasn't to say that it's easier to FIND OUT your bhp...that's why I said it made no sense.
#74
Originally Posted by IonNinja
actually no
because when I do that calculation I get a smaller number than my whp figure...just like if I started with a bhp figure and was trying to figure out my whp. Not the other way around like it should be.
And again if I do hp x 0.8 = hp I still get the same result as hp - 20% = hp
I can understand how adding a % to a figure to find out bhp may come out different but when working with an already established bhp number and just subtracting a percent from that to calculate whp...the numbers seem to be right on.
because when I do that calculation I get a smaller number than my whp figure...just like if I started with a bhp figure and was trying to figure out my whp. Not the other way around like it should be.
And again if I do hp x 0.8 = hp I still get the same result as hp - 20% = hp
I can understand how adding a % to a figure to find out bhp may come out different but when working with an already established bhp number and just subtracting a percent from that to calculate whp...the numbers seem to be right on.
and if you set up the formula correctly to solve for bhp it should look like this
bhp = whp/(1-0.2) again assuming automatic.
might sound to you but it sounds right to me
#75
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Originally Posted by IonNinja
takin directly from his sig (traviskearney):
2005 Chevrolet Cavalier
2415 lbs.
150.4whp/222.0whp
AEM Cold Air Intake
Airaid TB Spacer
DC Sport Ceramic Header
Catback 2.5" Into Dual 3" Out NOPI Carbon Fiber Exhaust
Zex Wet Kit
18" Konig Tuner II Rims
18" Ventus HR II Tires
Dropzone 2" Lowering Springs
Tokico Sport Struts
Tokico Sport Shocks
Tokico Front And Rear Tower Braces
VIS Carbon Fiber Hood
Tsudo Carbon Fiber Spoiler
Second OEM Deck Lid For Custom Spoiler Install
AVS Smoke Headlight Covers
Custom 1200 Watt Pioneer Stereo System
15% Window Tint
N/A his dyno sounds a little high IMO but who knows...
2005 Chevrolet Cavalier
2415 lbs.
150.4whp/222.0whp
AEM Cold Air Intake
Airaid TB Spacer
DC Sport Ceramic Header
Catback 2.5" Into Dual 3" Out NOPI Carbon Fiber Exhaust
Zex Wet Kit
18" Konig Tuner II Rims
18" Ventus HR II Tires
Dropzone 2" Lowering Springs
Tokico Sport Struts
Tokico Sport Shocks
Tokico Front And Rear Tower Braces
VIS Carbon Fiber Hood
Tsudo Carbon Fiber Spoiler
Second OEM Deck Lid For Custom Spoiler Install
AVS Smoke Headlight Covers
Custom 1200 Watt Pioneer Stereo System
15% Window Tint
N/A his dyno sounds a little high IMO but who knows...
CAI
short tube header w/2.5" cat back
zex shot(what size?)
and a tb spacer...
where the hell did he pick up all the hp from?Off the bottle he might get an extra 10whp being generous... I can't see with his mods him being at 150whp off the bottle. For that matter over 200 on the bottle without a HEALTHY shot... I'm assuming the 05 cavaliers had the same powerplant and drivetrain as the cobalts?