Cams
09-06-2010, 01:41 PM
#26
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I read on that cam website that a tune is recommend but not need. Other then that I don't know. I would like to.know to.
09-06-2010, 03:05 PM
#27
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For stage 1 there not really needed I've done 2 installs on Js withe stage 1 ecotec cams with no tune cars run and pull but more can be had with a tune.
I've ran stage 2s with the stock drivetrain so its possible but not recommend(actually all of comps cam selection really need a valvespring upgrade) you are experiencing coil bind even at idle our stock springs suck It took me 7 months before I had a valve spring finally break(took piston 3 with it). With stage 2s your also outflowing the stock head so you basically hit peak power and plane because you can't support the added flow. I currently run stage 3s in my car and would not advise anyone to do it unless its a weekend toy or racecar, I daily mine and it feels like a dog until about 4000rpm then its a whole new animal.
If you only have an intake, I would deffinatly look into a header the stock one can be very restrictive.
I've ran stage 2s with the stock drivetrain so its possible but not recommend(actually all of comps cam selection really need a valvespring upgrade) you are experiencing coil bind even at idle our stock springs suck It took me 7 months before I had a valve spring finally break(took piston 3 with it). With stage 2s your also outflowing the stock head so you basically hit peak power and plane because you can't support the added flow. I currently run stage 3s in my car and would not advise anyone to do it unless its a weekend toy or racecar, I daily mine and it feels like a dog until about 4000rpm then its a whole new animal.
If you only have an intake, I would deffinatly look into a header the stock one can be very restrictive.
09-06-2010, 04:16 PM
#28
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S
so all the cams on that website r stage one
For stage 1 there not really needed I've done 2 installs on Js withe stage 1 ecotec cams with no tune cars run and pull but more can be had with a tune.
I've ran stage 2s with the stock drivetrain so its possible but not recommend(actually all of comps cam selection really need a valvespring upgrade) you are experiencing coil bind even at idle our stock springs suck It took me 7 months before I had a valve spring finally break(took piston 3 with it). With stage 2s your also outflowing the stock head so you basically hit peak power and plane because you can't support the added flow. I currently run stage 3s in my car and would not advise anyone to do it unless its a weekend toy or racecar, I daily mine and it feels like a dog until about 4000rpm then its a whole new animal.
If you only have an intake, I would deffinatly look into a header the stock one can be very restrictive.
I've ran stage 2s with the stock drivetrain so its possible but not recommend(actually all of comps cam selection really need a valvespring upgrade) you are experiencing coil bind even at idle our stock springs suck It took me 7 months before I had a valve spring finally break(took piston 3 with it). With stage 2s your also outflowing the stock head so you basically hit peak power and plane because you can't support the added flow. I currently run stage 3s in my car and would not advise anyone to do it unless its a weekend toy or racecar, I daily mine and it feels like a dog until about 4000rpm then its a whole new animal.
If you only have an intake, I would deffinatly look into a header the stock one can be very restrictive.
09-06-2010, 08:10 PM
#29
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What website? There is 5 different grind types sold by Comp, they will also do custom ones. There is a European company that makes 40+grinds for the L61 but they are quite expensive.
09-06-2010, 08:45 PM
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09-08-2010, 06:58 PM
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I run a stg 2 comp cam
it opens up the possibility to do alot of stuff power wise...do the right build on the head and you will be amazed.
Mine runs like a champ with them, installed myself and without that tool its a good 4 hour job to do everything including the timing...if you have the tool 1-2 hours.
go to youtube and find videos and search for trh9490 (user) and youll find my vids of the car (dyno, track, street)...I need new ones now that I have the new engine and exhaust setup, but it does alright
it opens up the possibility to do alot of stuff power wise...do the right build on the head and you will be amazed.
Mine runs like a champ with them, installed myself and without that tool its a good 4 hour job to do everything including the timing...if you have the tool 1-2 hours.
go to youtube and find videos and search for trh9490 (user) and youll find my vids of the car (dyno, track, street)...I need new ones now that I have the new engine and exhaust setup, but it does alright
09-08-2010, 07:19 PM
#34
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Stage 1 is for DD, Stage 2 if your more a track person. This is just IMO cause it's a harsher ride the higher you go. More wear and tear, powerband is raised even higher so requires more rpms, and is a pain for stop light driving, city driving. Stage 1 averages what 25hp with full bolt ons and tune, and 35 with stage 2. I know some people with stage 2 were dynoing 180ish whp But they were fully bolted, plus I/M and tune, Also some were using other stuff like lighter pully's or neutral balance shafts, ect.
180ish is roughly 195-200 engine hp, you are now equal to an 06+ SI with 40-50 more tq! yay!
Stage 1 you probably be 170ish whp, with room to improve. also if you do your valve springs and retainers makes a big difference on how high your revving, huckerage i think was stock or has zzp's and he revs to 7600? have to ask him or get him in here.
180ish is roughly 195-200 engine hp, you are now equal to an 06+ SI with 40-50 more tq! yay!
Stage 1 you probably be 170ish whp, with room to improve. also if you do your valve springs and retainers makes a big difference on how high your revving, huckerage i think was stock or has zzp's and he revs to 7600? have to ask him or get him in here.
09-08-2010, 09:35 PM
#35
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Stage 2's with stock valvtrain will beat a 06+SI. Look up MR. Roboto on Youtube I did the install on his car about 3 years ago. His car is alot lighter than a Cobalt but none the less.
09-08-2010, 09:50 PM
#36
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I run a stg 2 comp cam
it opens up the possibility to do alot of stuff power wise...do the right build on the head and you will be amazed.
Mine runs like a champ with them, installed myself and without that tool its a good 4 hour job to do everything including the timing...if you have the tool 1-2 hours.
go to youtube and find videos and search for trh9490 (user) and youll find my vids of the car (dyno, track, street)...I need new ones now that I have the new engine and exhaust setup, but it does alright
it opens up the possibility to do alot of stuff power wise...do the right build on the head and you will be amazed.
Mine runs like a champ with them, installed myself and without that tool its a good 4 hour job to do everything including the timing...if you have the tool 1-2 hours.
go to youtube and find videos and search for trh9490 (user) and youll find my vids of the car (dyno, track, street)...I need new ones now that I have the new engine and exhaust setup, but it does alright
its awesome!
09-09-2010, 12:05 AM
#39
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The stage one Comp Cams give more power from 2600-6800 rpms, but the stage two affects the 3000-7500 rpms range.
For me, I would go with the stage one. For me, it would go onto the wife's 2.2 Ecotec Sunfire as it already has all the bolt-ons done.
Stage one: 5-12 hp gain
Stage two: 8-15hp gain
Gains depend on supporting mods such as bolt-ons or porting.
I would have to price the springs plus add on labor to see if the gains are worth the extra $$$. I realize that once in there, I mind as well have them replaced as the wife has 120k miles on her motor. Any ideas on the cost to swap springs???
I know the tune on a stock car is like 8hp.
I cannot guess how much more hp there will be with all bolt-ons, plus cams.
My final engine mod will be Trifecta or HP tuners.
If I got a stage two, it wont work for my wife or I.
Reason being, the car is an automatic, can't really take advantage of the power range.
Plus it worries me to hit 7500 rpms when that is past redline.
I know the stage two cams sound incredible, and I could have the tranny reprogrammed, but I am leary of hitting redline no matter what. That hyper-excellerates wear, but maybe I am wrong and someone can explain why. I am hear to learn.
For me, I would go with the stage one. For me, it would go onto the wife's 2.2 Ecotec Sunfire as it already has all the bolt-ons done.
Stage one: 5-12 hp gain
Stage two: 8-15hp gain
Gains depend on supporting mods such as bolt-ons or porting.
I would have to price the springs plus add on labor to see if the gains are worth the extra $$$. I realize that once in there, I mind as well have them replaced as the wife has 120k miles on her motor. Any ideas on the cost to swap springs???
I know the tune on a stock car is like 8hp.
I cannot guess how much more hp there will be with all bolt-ons, plus cams.
My final engine mod will be Trifecta or HP tuners.
If I got a stage two, it wont work for my wife or I.
Reason being, the car is an automatic, can't really take advantage of the power range.
Plus it worries me to hit 7500 rpms when that is past redline.
I know the stage two cams sound incredible, and I could have the tranny reprogrammed, but I am leary of hitting redline no matter what. That hyper-excellerates wear, but maybe I am wrong and someone can explain why. I am hear to learn.
09-09-2010, 06:12 PM
#42
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09-09-2010, 07:28 PM
#43
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I have:
ebay cold air intake
K&N filter
2.4l intake manifold
2.4l throttle body
stage 2 Comp cams
ZZP 78lb valve springs
lsj injectors
shaved cylinder head .020"
OTTP 4-1 longtube header (1 5/8th" primaries)
OTTP 2.5" catless downpipe
Clear Image 3" catback w/ Magnaflow muffler & resontator
MRZ lightweight alternator pulley
TTR tranny mounts
TTR solid engine mount
Trifecta Tune
Ebay oil catch can
This is everything perf wise for the engine, I have plenty of other stuff done to the car but this is what matters for power
ebay cold air intake
K&N filter
2.4l intake manifold
2.4l throttle body
stage 2 Comp cams
ZZP 78lb valve springs
lsj injectors
shaved cylinder head .020"
OTTP 4-1 longtube header (1 5/8th" primaries)
OTTP 2.5" catless downpipe
Clear Image 3" catback w/ Magnaflow muffler & resontator
MRZ lightweight alternator pulley
TTR tranny mounts
TTR solid engine mount
Trifecta Tune
Ebay oil catch can
This is everything perf wise for the engine, I have plenty of other stuff done to the car but this is what matters for power
09-09-2010, 07:32 PM
#44
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during the last dyno I had a clear image 4-2-1 header, catless dp, stock valve springs, old motor, was using an AEM dryflow air filter and was running royal purple oil instead of Penn Grade organic/ synthetic that Im running now.
09-09-2010, 08:58 PM
#46
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long tube for sure
the clear image wasnt condusive to the powre band of teh cams
it makes more from low rpm then higher
and I felt a nice increase with the new longtube
the clear image wasnt condusive to the powre band of teh cams
it makes more from low rpm then higher
and I felt a nice increase with the new longtube
09-09-2010, 11:03 PM
#47
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Ill get some new ones. And post them. When I go through drive thru's people are always asking what the hell....?? LoL. And when I race people thing it's just a regular old 4cly until I crack it past 4000rpm
09-09-2010, 11:29 PM
#49
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ya, that 180 was with an afr that was a full 2pts off
Last edited by NWAE Cobalt; 09-09-2010 at 11:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost