bridfi

back to the guy that was talking about "slapping a turbo on"

please dont turbo your car unless you build the bottom end first, i think those 2.2 rods will go first under boost... and pistons arent much better and im sure the valves will have problems under boost also, valve springs, piston rings, etc... all need to be upgraded.

i mean unless you wanna boost 5 lbs... but then is that really worth the thousands of dollars your spending?

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

Thank you...this is exactly what we are dealing with. Unfortunatly, the dyno shop we use, and the one i have a current mod dyno on to compare with, has been shut down for the past week and until this next week. The owner and operator is in asia with family so we are waiting on some open time to dyno my car....we are all set to get this done...but we havent had a chance yet.

M-Dub

Sorry, but the concept you guys have is good an all, but why would someone want to have to reorder this handheld thinga-ma-bobie everytime they get new mods that just sounds retarded! While the AEM piggy back it's there all the time and you buy it once and your done!

::shrugs:: back to your over-zealousness!

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

this is just the first step..it is the first break in the tune...that can be built on. you can also use this to get rid of PE delay and then use a piggy back to do the rest...that works....

vince will be working on making this more user friendly...such as selling the gt tuner...or making a software based system. You can buy a gt tuner from the same place he does if you wanted and just pay him to redo the tune for you...that way you have the unit and he just emails you an update...just as quick if not quicker then sched time with someone to meet up...

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

research our motors a bit. a stock 2.2 is good to around 300bHP under boost

brandon2.2

ok.......unless you have modified the LT1 I know they don't have a lot of power. what you should look at is HorsePower PER LITER. the 2.0L stock is 205 which is a hair over 100 hp per liter, stock that is really good. For the LT1 to have 100hp per liter you need at least 570hp.

cobalt_driver

got through 7 pages...n im tired. time to bed. subscribed for later. i can't wait. this is intense. 300 bucks?!!! thats totally worth it. the advances we're talking here are totally worth the money. tuning...wow. i never thought i'd see the day!

i was aware of 250. i wouldn't push the door anymore than that.

base turbo is good for 8 psi. sooo, i mean, it's not a HUGE significant amount of boost. but it is enough for us to see 200 whp. n i believe the numbers ran by hahn/garett are on a base as can be model. nothing other than the turbo. correct me if i am wrong? and also, aren't valves, valve springs, cams, etc, top end? i'm not trying to be a dick. i'm just starting to understand engines here. just trying to learn as i go.

sry for thread jacking.

steddy2112

iTrader: (1)

The m62 sc on that measures 1 liter.

So in reality it is more like a 3.0L.

Stop being a hp per liter fanboi.

cobalt_driver

lol...i love that word. i LAWL everytime i see it. mainly because of raven one day when he was like "If i see some ss/tc psh psh psh fanboi rollin up..." lol. k done. goodnight.

06Pursuit

iTrader: (1)

the conecting rods all snap simutaniously(sp???) at 250whp.

Cobalt4Life

By nitrous yes which causes more abuse than boost, but yea 250 they should still be changed

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

Still at a standstill... Oh well the dealership hastnt called me yet so I still dont have money for it anyways

IonNinja

i know everyone thinks the rods will go first based on GMs tests

personally I think the piston rings are the weakest part of the bottom end. the rods are probably the last thing I'd worry about...

Sw4y1313

same here. the ringlands are ****. they are like an 8th to quarter inch from the top of the piston. the rods are good for maybe 300 under boost but I wouldn't keep them regardless.

now that we can supposidly tune and increase the rev limiter, I can upgrade my valvetrain to be good for a 7.5-8k redline with cams to suit.

bridfi

read the GM build book, i think they advise to change the rods if your shooting for over 250 horses.. thats enough research for me.

yeah, valves, cams, springs, etc are all top end.. sorry for not specifying. but i think those should be changed as well.. i mean i want a well-powered car that i can also drive to work in and not worried about a valve snapping and causing damage to my head/cylinder walls...

yeah GM doesnt talk much about rings, but im sure they need to be upgraded also. for reliability.

reliability ftw

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

they snapped at 283bHP under nitrous, which would be 300+ bHP under boost. Would i reccomend running 300bHP on stock rods? no, but 250 is definitely far from the breaking point.

i dont believe they swapped out rings the same time as the pistons and rods, so theyre probably similarly rated for 250bHP

freakta

iTrader: (1)

well my lt1 with cai and cbe made 300whp and 315tq
my cobalt with more mods made much less with much bigger injectors thats all i was saying. hp per litre is like saying my .5 litre honda dirtbike makes 68whp so thats 136hp per litre its still only a 68 hp dirtbike it doesnt make it faster than my 120hp prelude even though the prelude is only 90 or so hp per litre

it has always bugged me that the cobalt uses such huge injectors for the power it makes. i wasnt saying anything is better than the other.

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

well i'm sure the boost in the SS/SC is the main reason for larger injectors. You need more fuel because there is so much more air. than with a regular 2.0L engine without a blower.

Isn't that right?

I mean if you ha two 2.2L engines together wouldn't you still use the smaller injectors.

Try strapping a turbo or super on that LT1 and see how much fuel you would need.

freakta

iTrader: (1)

i did strap a t88 to in and i need 96 pound injectors and a boost a pump and a modified 255lph pump... but its also making 4 digit dyno runs

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

an NA engine will always require less fuel per HP than a FI engine. FI WOT AFR's are like 11.0:1-12.5:1, whereas NA WOT AFR's are like 12.5:1-13.5:1

foff667

Correct this is because if your forcing in 10psi of boost thats 10psi pushing against the the injector trying to flow at 50psi or what have you ultimately giving you a lower theoretical fuel pressure and as you know the lower the fuel pressure the less fuel delivered in the same amount of time as higher fuel pressure.

Sw4y1313

Actually for the 400hp build it states you use your original rings on the wiseco or diamond racing pistons. Its good up to the 600 build.

bridfi

ive actually heard on the ecotecforums that the rings are weak, they went out on a guy before the rods did on a turbo build (stock internals)

Sw4y1313

Its the ringlands. Look at the the piston compared to the stock LSJ or an aftermarket piston.

cobalt_driver

so is there an estimated date of when these will be in production n for sale? i'm really hoping before summer starts. and also, can one of the beta testers PM me, maybe nwa. i want to know EXACTLY what i can change. also, will i have to keep buying upgrades like was stated? i'm confused by that statement. i was in this thread for a little while but drifted out, and don't wanna spend 45 minutes reading through it all.