jbenso4

iTrader: (1)

haha join the club for the quest for 14's man youre not the only one. and i am a hair away

EXsoccer1921

iTrader: (14)

and, no doubt you'll have a very well rounded car. but i just don't think your ETs will be what you expected them to be.

jbenso4

iTrader: (1)

and u might wanna take off thoes 18's if u want 14's too.....heavy ****

EXsoccer1921

iTrader: (14)

i went 13s with 18"s hahah

1niceLS

Ok so I have an update on my "build" progress. First the good news tonight I just got back from my friends house from succesfully installing my Cobalt-Addiction UDP and MRZs Lightweight Alternator pulley. The alternator was a bitch to get at and we had to take the entire think out from underneath the hood. But that's not the worst part oh no. We get everything put back together and we go to put the belt on when my friend goes to loosen up the belt tensioner and POP! were both like wtf!?! So we take the udp off and then decide to take of the tensioner to inspect it to see what the hell happened. Well to my dismay the ******* spring broke the outside casing of the damn tensioner not allowing it to hold tension on the belt. So now it looks like I m off to autozone or the stealership tomorrow to find a new belt tensioner, it figures nothing went wrong all night then right when we go to finish up this **** happens oh well that's life. I ll try to post picks to show everyone tomorrow if I can. Oh and if anyone is wondering on how I got home my friend lives on top of a hill in my neighborhood so I coasted home

vaderbalt

subscribed, waiting to see how this turns out i have been back and forth on going n/a or turbo. I am leaning toward turbo but I am very interested to see how this turns out. I want to wait like 6 months or so to do anything because i still have warranty and god knows i have used it alot. :-)

El Mariachi

Check out my sig

1niceLS

Ok so I finally got the belt tensioner back on and the car is up and running. However my computer is being gay and won't let me host/post pics so unless someone can give me a hand I have no pics to show the finished work But on a good note I did a test drive and you can definately tell a difference. Also if anyone is curious I got no voltage drop from the udp since I installed the lightweight alternator pulley as well so all my lights, flip-up monitor, etc. are running fine. Anyone who is thinking about getting this mod do it, but I would strongly suggest having other mods first such as intake, exhaust etc. because this might show up on a dyno as maybe a couple more horses, but it will definately help with acceleration seeing as this is roughly a 3 pound weight savings on the crank.

Also if your wondering how much this will run you here is some figures:
CA Underdrive Pulley- $160
MRZ Lightweight Alternator Pulley- $65
Goodyear 390 Belt- $18
*Crank Bolt- $7
Total- $250

All prices are with shipping and the crank bolt is optional, however I chose to get a new one instead of reusing the old one but IMO reuse the old one because when I took the old one out it was in mint condition and I have over 55K on my car. You will also need some cheap lubes and such for this install too such as loctite and ant-seize but I won't add those into the cost since they are generally pretty cheap.

If anyone has any other questions just let me know. I will try to install my 2.4 intake mani tomorrow with weather and time pending. I also will soon be ordering either TTR engine mount or dp/exhaust not sure yet. That and if anybody wants I'd be more than willing to do a how to for the pulleys because they were a bitch and I'd hate to see someone go through what I did without help.

burzumaske20

It depends which header you go with,I have longtube header for my 2.2,you get about 3 to 4 extra hp,also you can do a underdrive pulley or lightweight pulley,new alternator pulley and from MRZ bored 60mm TB.that would probable get you around 170 or 180.If you do nitrous you can probable be up to 230hp maybe,but the the pistons in the 2.2 only handles about 230hp or 250hp.So either way you will have to upgrade the pistons,also if you do any cams just get the so call stage 2 cams.Someone on here dynoed and only ended up with 163whp from built exhaust system and stage 1 cams.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

another 2.2 na, sweet deal!
i am working on a 2.2 na as well
in the process of swapping the valves and decking the head due to bad timing with new cams and bent exahust valves
ill be able to tell you what comp stg2 cams, lightweight crank and alt pulleys, 2.4 intake mani, tb, cai, 4-2-1 header, catless dp, 3" exhaust, and a .025" decked head with a trifecta tune will give you after it all gets put together
should be pretty quick here and we are hoping for some nice numbers

2007victoryred

Its about time you chime in NWAE!

Every time I think N/A cobalt I think of yours.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

lol, i just like to let people know that soon (crossing my fingers) ill have some numbers for people to shoot at...cause really, NO ONE has done any kind of decent and full n/a build to date....at all!!! (at least none of us are running yet lol)
and hey...im proud of my girl...she may be sitting in the driveway broken...but i still lover her *tear*


ya...been at work all day..just popped over and saw it...i know im late lolol

2007victoryred

Thats the type of passion that makes you wanna do an N/A build.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

and to the op...

chime in here if youd like...this is where its all going down right now lol

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-2l-l61-performance-tech-45/toms-build-d-155396/


driving up to canada tomorrow to pick up valvetrain parts from g5king (THANKS!!!!!!) and then when head bolts all arrive its go time

1niceLS

1. Where did you find a longtube header for a 2.2? The only other header I could find besides a shorty was ZZPs Mid-Length H/DP combo.
2. You can not buy the 60mm TB from MRZ yet because it is mechanical not electronic. However they plan on having an electric one out shortly for the newer L61s. That and swapping the 2.4 TB in my mind would yield better results anyway seeing as its bigger than 60mm.
3. This is an N/A "build" so adding nitrous would make this pointless. (However I m sure many people have already called this "build" pointless)
4. I already know how much the L61 can handle internals wise and its the connnecting rods and they fail simultaneously at 250hp, pistons fail at 300hp, and crank fails at 400hp this all to my understanding.
5. As stated before I do not have the time available to me to break motor down and throw in cams otherwise I would.

Thanks for your input though and please let me know about that longtube header because the exhaust is one of the last areas I have on the build and I m really indecisive as to what I want.

ilovecars

iTrader: (4)

never mind read the rest of the thread.

1niceLS

Good deal I had read some of your posts before and I was impressed I think you are possibly the only one that is actually building the block up on a 2.2. If I had time to do that I would but I don't so I m basically sticking to throwing on everything they possibly make for a 2.2 that doesn't involve head work and see where that gets me. That way anybody who wants to work on a 2.2 has a stepping stone as to what way they want to build theirs. But anyway and I hope everything goes well for ya let me know when everything gets put back together and you dyno it.

????????????????

ilovecars

iTrader: (4)

i posted you should get like cams injectors balance shaft delete but you arent gonna even go in your block i though when you said block work you meant like boreing and stuff

1niceLS

Oh ok, yeah wish I could but being a full-time college kid and part-time employed takes a toll on your time

CobaltCoupeCrazy

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, I didn't have time to read every post before posting my reply, but if you do decide to go with aftermarket cams what about a ported head as well (Patriot Performance).

I'm very interested in seeing where this goes; I can really appreciate N/A, raw power (the harder way to make bigger numbers).

1niceLS

Unfortunately I am not going with cams because I do not have the time available to do something like that because I am a full time college student and this is my dd so I can't allow any down time. However if I could I would. Thanks for the input though that would be a good idea.

xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

iTrader: (1)

How does the cattless DP sound?

..And why a 3" exhaust?

1niceLS

Not trying to put words in his mouth but with the block work he's doing the more flow he can get the better. That's all N/A is, how well you can get the engine to flow/breathe and burn fuel (for the most part)

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

3" is waay to large for that application. You wont need 3" till your around 300bhp...Im gonna guess he'll be in the very low 200's in whp after his build, depending on what he revs to and what cams

burzumaske20

Only longtube header you will run into is pacesetter,not the cheap ass one either,when I first open the box,the header was huge and also i put the stock header and the pacesetter right next to each other,which the pacesetter is much longer then the stock header.It was a good buy though and worth the little extra hp.Warning though you will need a custom downpipe made,since its 2 bolts that connect.