Fuel Performance
#1
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Fuel Performance
I have been putting 93 octain fuel in my car because I know it is better fuel, however with the rise in Gas prices it is starting to expensive. If I go to 89 or 87 even to save the money will I notice a HP loss...If so how much...
#2
Originally Posted by Strider_2001
I have been putting 93 octain fuel in my car because I know it is better fuel, however with the rise in Gas prices it is starting to expensive. If I go to 89 or 87 even to save the money will I notice a HP loss...If so how much...
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Your car is designed to run 87. The only benefit of running higher octane is if you run something like shells v-power because it will clean your injectors, but even so you should only run it every once in a while.
I run 90 just because i know where to get it for a penny more on the gallon of regular. Its a nice little deal. And since i've seen you in the Central IL forum heres a little hint, if your ever in bloomington goto the Quik N Easy on N. Main St. in normal. Thats the place to get your 90
I run 90 just because i know where to get it for a penny more on the gallon of regular. Its a nice little deal. And since i've seen you in the Central IL forum heres a little hint, if your ever in bloomington goto the Quik N Easy on N. Main St. in normal. Thats the place to get your 90
#5
Originally Posted by Strider_2001
I have been putting 93 octain fuel in my car because I know it is better fuel, however with the rise in Gas prices it is starting to expensive. If I go to 89 or 87 even to save the money will I notice a HP loss...If so how much...
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Originally Posted by beamSS
i see you have a 2.2 there's no point in going premium!
#8
Originally Posted by Strider_2001
Thanks for alll the advise....I dont feel as bad being cheap anymore getting the 87 fuel...
it's ok, you don't have to feel bad.... MOST people think that higher octane = better, or more horse power... higher octane is very often incorrectly associated with more hosepower because typically larger/faster engines require a higher octane...
stick to 87
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i run 89 on the regular in my 2.2---pretty much what they recommend stock....but i do go to 96 occationaly when racing cuz my mod box throws the timing forward to use the higher octanes increased compression....higher octane fuels burn slower generating more pressure over the entire burn so cars like ours w/ lower compression ratings tend to knock or backfire from high octane
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Originally Posted by SIMMONS 2.0
i run 89 on the regular in my 2.2---pretty much what they recommend stock....but i do go to 96 occationaly when racing cuz my mod box throws the timing forward to use the higher octanes increased compression....higher octane fuels burn slower generating more pressure over the entire burn so cars like ours w/ lower compression ratings tend to knock or backfire from high octane
10:1 is low compression? that must be that new math the kids are all raving about
it's not going to knock or backfire from too high octane, it'll just read richer than it should since in some cases the mixture will still be burning while it exits the chamber.
if you're stock, run 87
if you have bolt-ons, run 87
when you start going ***** out with stuff, then bump up to higher levels
#11
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Originally Posted by slowion2
lol listen to this guy and his magic box
10:1 is low compression? that must be that new math the kids are all raving about
it's not going to knock or backfire from too high octane, it'll just read richer than it should since in some cases the mixture will still be burning while it exits the chamber.
if you're stock, run 87
if you have bolt-ons, run 87
when you start going ***** out with stuff, then bump up to higher levels
10:1 is low compression? that must be that new math the kids are all raving about
it's not going to knock or backfire from too high octane, it'll just read richer than it should since in some cases the mixture will still be burning while it exits the chamber.
if you're stock, run 87
if you have bolt-ons, run 87
when you start going ***** out with stuff, then bump up to higher levels
what he said.
It's a 2.2L 150 hp motor. Not a 1.6L 12:1 Compression 400hp Turbo Monstar! lol
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Originally Posted by slowion2
lol listen to this guy and his magic box
10:1 is low compression? that must be that new math the kids are all raving about
it's not going to knock or backfire from too high octane, it'll just read richer than it should since in some cases the mixture will still be burning while it exits the chamber.
if you're stock, run 87
if you have bolt-ons, run 87
when you start going ***** out with stuff, then bump up to higher levels
10:1 is low compression? that must be that new math the kids are all raving about
it's not going to knock or backfire from too high octane, it'll just read richer than it should since in some cases the mixture will still be burning while it exits the chamber.
if you're stock, run 87
if you have bolt-ons, run 87
when you start going ***** out with stuff, then bump up to higher levels
oh and never said 10:1 is low compression....just not as high as performance engines is all
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I'm not trying to rag on you dude, dont' get upset, but to me every time I see you talk about that mod box my mind says "whimsical magic box of fun" LOL
is these one of those things that wire inline with the iat signal? that's what's going to have an impact on your timing along with knock (when the ecu "hears" knock it will pull timing accordingly). with the s-series saturns, we had a few people actually wire up a setup with a pot and resistors to adjust resistance and modulate the signal, and yes it worked but after 500 miles or so it tuned itself out and corrected the alterations made. I have a feeling whatever you have is in essence the same exact thing, and in that sense it might work, at least temporarily, but I wouldn't say it's a huge difference.
I know when I reset my ecu I get my timing back for a while, maybe even 500 miles, but then it gets pulled afterwards back to where it was. it's the same idea, temporary spark advance. if you notice after 500-1000 miles that your engine light turns on, take that thing out. what's happening is the ecu is failing the signal from the sensor since it's always constant. Also keep in mind that at some settings or however it's setup for you, your a/c may not actually kick on. it's a safety built into the system as to not freeze the evap. you may luck out though.
now as far as octane with this, when you advance spark enough you will get knock, so upping the octane rating is a way around this. but, also remember, you aren't seeing your knock or any other signal for that matter. so there's a chance that the gain you think you have is in your head, which is pretty normal to justify the extra money you're spending, but honestly, reset the ecu again after a fill of 87, turn it to whatever, and then drive it, you should have the same power as with the 93.
like I said, I'm not trying to rip on you, I know you're trying to learn as much as you can, but I think I have every right to knock it, no pun intended
up until I want to say the mid to late 90's most engines in autos were between 8.0 and 9.5, so anything above that was considered "high compression" and for performance. now though, a lot are starting at 10:1 and higher.
is these one of those things that wire inline with the iat signal? that's what's going to have an impact on your timing along with knock (when the ecu "hears" knock it will pull timing accordingly). with the s-series saturns, we had a few people actually wire up a setup with a pot and resistors to adjust resistance and modulate the signal, and yes it worked but after 500 miles or so it tuned itself out and corrected the alterations made. I have a feeling whatever you have is in essence the same exact thing, and in that sense it might work, at least temporarily, but I wouldn't say it's a huge difference.
I know when I reset my ecu I get my timing back for a while, maybe even 500 miles, but then it gets pulled afterwards back to where it was. it's the same idea, temporary spark advance. if you notice after 500-1000 miles that your engine light turns on, take that thing out. what's happening is the ecu is failing the signal from the sensor since it's always constant. Also keep in mind that at some settings or however it's setup for you, your a/c may not actually kick on. it's a safety built into the system as to not freeze the evap. you may luck out though.
now as far as octane with this, when you advance spark enough you will get knock, so upping the octane rating is a way around this. but, also remember, you aren't seeing your knock or any other signal for that matter. so there's a chance that the gain you think you have is in your head, which is pretty normal to justify the extra money you're spending, but honestly, reset the ecu again after a fill of 87, turn it to whatever, and then drive it, you should have the same power as with the 93.
like I said, I'm not trying to rip on you, I know you're trying to learn as much as you can, but I think I have every right to knock it, no pun intended
up until I want to say the mid to late 90's most engines in autos were between 8.0 and 9.5, so anything above that was considered "high compression" and for performance. now though, a lot are starting at 10:1 and higher.
#16
96 octane in a 2.2 is stupid, and it's a waste of money.. you do NOT see any gains from using 96 octane, and if anything it hurts your performance... i would love to see a slip before you "estimate" that you have 150 whp from this magic box
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gosh guys....like i said apparently u know way more than i do and as i said in other threads this is a test period on this "box" i have....for now there is an incr in power but, ion may be totally correct in that it is temp.
i dont know for sure.....sorry if i am offending anyone or pissing them off but if i was pullin 138whp b4 "box" according to mfr i should be around the 150 area after, but as soon as i get a dyno slip i will post it but for now just try to help me out with this situation and just let me know if i should just ditch this thing or run it till i feel it doesnt help any more
i dont know for sure.....sorry if i am offending anyone or pissing them off but if i was pullin 138whp b4 "box" according to mfr i should be around the 150 area after, but as soon as i get a dyno slip i will post it but for now just try to help me out with this situation and just let me know if i should just ditch this thing or run it till i feel it doesnt help any more
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You don't need to run higher octane unless you get into a heavily modded engine point. I had a CAI and exhaust on my neon, and it was running fine on 87, no knock. Stick with the cheap stuff while you can. Just don't run cheap brands of gas.
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Yeah one of my co-workershas a 99 Accord and he's been putting in 93 SINCE THE DAY HE BOUGHT THE DAMN CAR!!!!!
I tell that you have lost some power and should run on 87, he's like no, the higher the better! He also changes his oil once every 6-9 months!!! He's Asain/Loation, and doesn't get a clue! Plus he praises HONDUH like it's a god!
Run 87 with the occasional 89/91!
I tell that you have lost some power and should run on 87, he's like no, the higher the better! He also changes his oil once every 6-9 months!!! He's Asain/Loation, and doesn't get a clue! Plus he praises HONDUH like it's a god!
Run 87 with the occasional 89/91!
#20
some hondas and other vvt engines are different. with 93 you can see a rise in hp over 87because those engines can adjust to it and change things to fit the grade. several people wrote in to some mag i was reading for the tech section and asked that. that was there answer
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