blktrax

What you have to understand is that the front is where the largest percentage of weight is in the car. Granted the rear bar will help, but the largest amount of weight transfer will still cause roll in the front.

At least you have it, and once its in you'll wonder why you didn't sooner. But I understand what you mean.

I tried unhooking my front bar for an auto-x event, it worked out ok, but the amount of body roll was substantial, but in better prepped cars this is usually countered with coil overs and highly adjustable shock valving.

bluebaltjim

yea i took mine off when i had my crx, but then again i had two sets of coilovers, three shock and spring combinations, completely adjustable control arms, a set of x braces, and top and bottom strut bars front and back to set up the car for whatever surface i was gonna be on. one of the shock and spring sets was a 600lb spring in the front and 900lb in the rear and the car was gutted it weighed like 1700lbs, you could literally jump on the bumper and it wouldn't move.

the current setup on the cobalt is koni's with eibach prokit springs, stock front sway and the progress rear sway.

OrngBalt

Ok, I have officially decided I am obsessed. The suspension technique sway bars come in this crazy neon snot green color. so being the color matched person I am... they are now sunburst orange. even tho i know it will probably chip. lol.

thanx bluebalt and blktrax for your help. The rear sway goes on this weekend.

bluebaltjim

crazy neon snot green color

thats some funny **** right there

OrngBalt

I just couldn't stand the color. so now its orange.

Novajoe

ew

I wouldn't want that **** visible as is either. Looks like everyone on the assymbly line wiped a booger on it on it's way out

g5mike

but having just a rear sway does not detract from everyday safety on the highway does it?

OrngBalt

thanks... my roommate is looking at me like i have 7 heads cuz I am painting something that goes under the car. I feel better know I am not the only obsessive compulsive

bluebaltjim

nuff said

i could see where if could if you werent aware of the handling differences, scenario youre coming around a clover leaf exit ramp and some ass has come to a complete stop near the end and you couldnt see him because of tall grass. if you just jam on the brakes while turning the car will most likely tend to come around on you.

g5mike

+rep..thanks,I think the coilovers will do just fine then

OrngBalt

haha... thanks... it was pretty damn awful but now its orange

Smitty1017

ok well how exactly do springs affect the handling? I ask this becuase not only do they lower the center of gravity, but don't most even out the car by bringing the rear end lower (in the end equal in front/back)? Would it be best to go down equal on all sides and keep it as is with a raised back end or get like the springs that even the ride out?

Gearblock

So since sway bars seem to make things a little more "complex"....would a front and rear strut brace be a good combo by any chance?

bluebaltjim

the commercially available aftermarket springs are all engineered not to be radical in any direction, meaning oversteer or understeer. the prokit springs i have seem to be matched well, the ride is still compliant but stiffer than stock and im not slammed(ive had enough of that with previous cars). and by all means im not intending to discourage the use of sway bars, they're an integral part of a complete suspension setup. sways are used to balance the car out from front to back, the best setup is to have adjustable sway bar links in the front so you can fine tune the understeer and oversteer. as for strut bars for every day driving they really dont do all that much, but on the track they can make the car more consistent. and consistent is what a well engineered suspension should be, knowing how the car is going to react when thrown into a corner is most of the battle of driving fast.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

I have the Jason Smith Strut bar and It made SOOOO much difference!!!! And then I lowered it onto SS/SC stock springs and it handles like a dream!!!

Smitty1017

I dont know if you were replying to me or not, but ill reiterate my question:

I was asking how springs that lower not only the center of gravity, but also lower the rear end more so than the front (even out the car) affects handling, with the different front-rear weight distribution and all..

Super_SS

even if u slam the rear end all the way to the ground,all ur weight is up front,so oversteer will always be a problem if u got cheap tires.

remember not always will a major drop mean that it will handle like a race car..u also gotta take into consideration of our cars shape...it has a ass,and wat do ass's do,they wiggle..the more ass the more wiggler at higher speeds

1gmfanatik

Lowering your car will assist in more compatent handling period. By lowering your car with decent springs and matched with a good strut and shock combination, you will have much more control over her moves as well as by leveling out the ride she will feel much more planted through the corners. There will be no speed boat styled turning

IonNinja

rear sway bar and front sway bar end links were the #1 difference maker on my car for handling.

don't even waste your money on a strut bar, it does nothing

and depending on the type of springs you get, it can improve handling but if the spring rates are low you'll have a stock like ride.

struts would really firm up the ride nicely so I'd recommend those as well.

SVghost

I go to school at UW-Stout. The roads there are windy with alot of elevation change (for the midwest) and diffrent road surfaces. I am building the car so its the best for that, in various road conditions and such. Most corners can be taken between 35-80mph (in my friends stock wrx with fatter tires and aftermarket rims)

I was thinking:

Prokit Springs
Koni Adj Struts
Camber Bolts and shims (front and rear)
225 45 17 most likely...may be 225 xx 15 with stock steelies, cause im poor college student
Rear sway (maibie front? how much do aftermarket endlinks help?)


Im sure im forgeting somthing. But whats your guys oppinion on the sway bars for that setup? and the setup overall? what would you recomend?

bluebaltjim

i wouldnt go bigger than 205 on the stock steelies, theyre only 5.5" wide and more than that will be pinching the tire too much. with the prokit you really dont need the camber bolts and shims because it will still be within factory specs. the koni's are amazing and you'll enjoy them very much.

like three days ago i weighed my car ;front tires only 1800lbs even;all four tires 3040 lbs;rear tires only 1240lbs; so thats a 59/41 split front to back and i think stock its supposed to be 60/40. the only real difference springs make is a lower center of gravity and of course a higher spring rate stiffens things up.

SVghost

Ok so im gonna have to find some wheels then...cause i need more rubber. haha

i want to get the camber bolts and shims to adjust the camber. Whats the stock camber settings? Then what r they with the prokit (a tad more i know, but how much)?
I guess i need that info b4 i decide about camber settings...

YSUsteven

My car also felt like it "floated" when I first got it. The tires were 6 psi low, made a big difference.

I have the progress rear swarbar, it loosend the car up just a bit, and make the rear feel more controlled.

bluebaltjim

off hand i don't know what the specs are, there is a thread on that subject just do a search and it should pop.

blktrax

On to have a conflict but the (My '07 4 lug steels) factory steelies are 6in wide.

Street tires are 225/50-15's
Auto X Hoosiers 225/45/15's
BFG DOT drag radials 225/50/15's

All fit and work great.

But to each their own


I've got 1 camber bolt in the top lower strut bolt hole, each side, achived -2 deg camber on the front.