Highest 2.2l whp with an M62
#51
First post! I got a 07 Saturn Ion and i just got 4 grand for graduation and I am for sure going to supercharge it. End up spending 1500 with Trifecta and everything. Would it be safe to start out with a 2.8 or be safe with a 2.9? Plus my warranty ended 2 months ago so screw it.
#52
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
First post! I got a 07 Saturn Ion and i just got 4 grand for graduation and I am for sure going to supercharge it. End up spending 1500 with Trifecta and everything. Would it be safe to start out with a 2.8 or be safe with a 2.9? Plus my warranty ended 2 months ago so screw it.
Last edited by Gene Culley; 08-06-2009 at 09:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: 06-15-09
Location: Hightstown NJ
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#55
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
$1600 for tune and hardware
Throw on another $500 in gauges (all of which are optional, though the $60 boost gauge is recommended). That totals at $2100 for me.
i know the air pressure here is about 14.2PSIa
Last edited by HunterKiller89; 08-07-2009 at 04:33 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#56
Senior Member
Sorry for the typo Hunter, I meant to put $2000, not $3000. I know if I have my way about it, everything will be said and done for less than $2000 for sure...I'm very cheap and only look for absolute cheapest...I found a used Injen for $120 shipped, LSJ cat-back for $45 locally, etc. (intake is 2.2, but just to prove my point of me looking for cheapest parts available and the time it will take for me to put a SC kit together, I'll take my time to get every used part as cheap as possible).
#57
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-06-07
Location: Boston
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you also will find out pretty quick that once you can accelerate a lot faster you need to stop a lot faster so upgraded rotors and pads are almost essential.. at least for my style of driving.
my total was around 2.6k i think
my total was around 2.6k i think
#58
Senior Member
That's why I'm finishing my suspension/handling before I really consider FI...OTT rear sway is next, then MSD Dash Hawk, pads/rotors/ss lines, then struts/shocks, and finally a header/dp and tune until I decide what route to go. I won't be going turbo I've decided...it's either MPG or SC.
#60
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-06-07
Location: Boston
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After about 3 hard brakes on my stock pads and rotors my brakes became useless. Now i can get around 10 in before they start to fade.. that is what i was refering too
#61
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Last edited by Gene Culley; 08-08-2009 at 11:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#63
Senior Member
It really depends on what you get...with new parts, closer to the 3k, with used parts and a lot of searching/bargaining/trading, you can get it done for $1500.
What I referred to for about $2000 is the supercharger and bare essential components, a tune, an exhaust. You're looking at a little under $2000 for that if your SC parts are used. You can easily spend $3000 if you start doing things like Gene did (powdercoating or buying new parts). You can also buy all kinds of upgrades if you don't want a completely stock SC setup...intake rather than OEM LSJ intake parts, H/E, etc.
IF I go SC, I will go cheap and try to find a completely stock setup with the exception of an intake I will get an Injen or whatever right off the bat, but the pulley I would prefer to start off stock. Then, if/when I feel like upgrading, I can sell off stock parts if someone needs them and get upgraded parts. I just want to wait it out and take my time finding the cheapest parts I can (that are still in good shape)...with patience it can be done. I could go buy a whole setup right now and be done, but if I can save myself $500-1000 in all by taking my time, I will. This is my DD and I am in no rush to blow it up right now.
What I referred to for about $2000 is the supercharger and bare essential components, a tune, an exhaust. You're looking at a little under $2000 for that if your SC parts are used. You can easily spend $3000 if you start doing things like Gene did (powdercoating or buying new parts). You can also buy all kinds of upgrades if you don't want a completely stock SC setup...intake rather than OEM LSJ intake parts, H/E, etc.
IF I go SC, I will go cheap and try to find a completely stock setup with the exception of an intake I will get an Injen or whatever right off the bat, but the pulley I would prefer to start off stock. Then, if/when I feel like upgrading, I can sell off stock parts if someone needs them and get upgraded parts. I just want to wait it out and take my time finding the cheapest parts I can (that are still in good shape)...with patience it can be done. I could go buy a whole setup right now and be done, but if I can save myself $500-1000 in all by taking my time, I will. This is my DD and I am in no rush to blow it up right now.
#65
Senior Member
Well if/when I get going on my setup, I'll be picking up an MSD Dash Hawk...I will have to double check, but that should have parameters for IAT. I'll be picking the Dash Hawk up either way, but it will definitely benefit me if I go FI.
#66
Senior Member
Our ecu's have no way to monitor iat2, so your dashhawk and the interceptors can't read it. Re-wiring the 2.5 bar stock lsj tmap sensor(if you are using it) into the iat1 sensor on the maf is the only way. And I only know of 2 people that have done that, beck and pjk91. Not sure on numbers they saw though, maybe the latter will chime in as i know he's still on here once in awhile.
#67
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Our ecu's have no way to monitor iat2, so your dashhawk and the interceptors can't read it. Re-wiring the 2.5 bar stock lsj tmap sensor(if you are using it) into the iat1 sensor on the maf is the only way. And I only know of 2 people that have done that, beck and pjk91. Not sure on numbers they saw though, maybe the latter will chime in as i know he's still on here once in awhile.
#69
The Dashhawk only has the ability to display what the ecu reads. Even if you wire in the 2 bar map, there's no guarantee that it will display on the dashhawk since its not a factory parameter. I'm curious to see how this works out though.
#71
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Our ecu's have no way to monitor iat2, so your dashhawk and the interceptors can't read it. Re-wiring the 2.5 bar stock lsj tmap sensor(if you are using it) into the iat1 sensor on the maf is the only way. And I only know of 2 people that have done that, beck and pjk91. Not sure on numbers they saw though, maybe the latter will chime in as i know he's still on here once in awhile.
#72
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
IAT1 is read at the MAF, IAT2 by the 2.5 map on the manifold, putting a MAP sensor where the IAT1, will only read u the temps at the intake(right after the filter)...we can already do that, we need to read IAT2's, which is after the blower before the manifold....rewiring in a 2.5" map wont gurantee seeing it, i would just use a digital aftermarket gauge to monitor it, which is what im going to be doing :p already found it too...
ive been looking for one forever....
but it is guaranteed, as it has been done. 2 wires of the MAP/IAT2 sensor go and replace 2 wires that come from the MAF, so the IAT at the manifold is sent to the MAF, which is then read by the ECM as IAT1, even though the actual information is coming from the IAT2's location. Make sense?
regardless, i'd like to skip the rewire...wheres this IAT2 sensor? i couldnt find anything when i searched
#73
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
link to said gauge?
ive been looking for one forever....
but it is guaranteed, as it has been done. 2 wires of the MAP/IAT2 sensor go and replace 2 wires that come from the MAF, so the IAT at the manifold is sent to the MAF, which is then read by the ECM as IAT1, even though the actual information is coming from the IAT2's location. Make sense?
regardless, i'd like to skip the rewire...wheres this IAT2 sensor? i couldnt find anything when i searched
ive been looking for one forever....
but it is guaranteed, as it has been done. 2 wires of the MAP/IAT2 sensor go and replace 2 wires that come from the MAF, so the IAT at the manifold is sent to the MAF, which is then read by the ECM as IAT1, even though the actual information is coming from the IAT2's location. Make sense?
regardless, i'd like to skip the rewire...wheres this IAT2 sensor? i couldnt find anything when i searched
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/detai...4fef4d410659fb
it comes in red or blue, cant find the blue one though
Last edited by Jn2; 08-11-2009 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost