07cobaltguy

as far as i have calculated, i wont be done with my build till late summer. my wallets big enough, i have very few bills, not in school, work full time, live at home = left over money.

Sw4y1313

I used to be like that but i had to get out. my little brother drove me nuts.

$300 Eagle Rods
$450 Custom 11:1 CR Pistons from Diamond Racing
$300 Titanium Valves
$300 Titanium Springs
$320 Neutral Shafts
~$600 Comp Cams (Stage 3 preferred)
$250 Stg 1. Exedy Clutch
$350 Fendonza(sp?) Flywheel
$400 Megasquirts
~$900 Headwork (Port/Polish)
====Grand Total=====
$4170

Now the aprox. prices are high so it could come out to about $4k. You could make a 250+whp NA 2.2, but is it really worth it? You could spend just over half that, and have a 400whp 2.2 turbo or SC.

YellowLT

He Could get the Patriot Head which has P+P full valvetrain, Just need cams plus it's a sand cast one.

black07ssc

Has anyone had success reworking the crank on the ecotecs to add power you could add that to the list to

YellowLT

I'm planning on Getting a custom one but that's pricey.

Sw4y1313

I believe IonNinja got it for $1600 without a valvetrain at all. So i imagine it would be about $2000+.

IonNinja

actually I have the Patriot Stage 2 head...fully built valvetrain for $1300.

too bad its a ****** waste because I can't take advantage of it without a standalone

Sw4y1313

Sweet so it does come with it. couldnt remember exactly

avenger09123

to be honest I am not a GM guy, I was born and bred on harley's haha. But I went to GM the other day and had them drag up a list of parts for us based on the part numbers. You do not want a GM performance crankshaft, it alters the total stroke of your cylinders and makes your car a 2.0, besides costing about $4500. I don't know much about the parts, but heres what I'm getting N/A

88958640 - High Performance CNC Ported Cylinder Heads(valves & Springs accordingly)
88958648 - Performance Cam Shaft Set
88958613 - Adjustable Cam Gear Set
88958615 - Neutral Cam/Crank Shaft Balance Set
88958618 - Billet Connecting Rods
88958634 - High Performance Pistons, Rings & Pin Set
88958639 - Full Race Piston Pins
88958631 - Reduced Crank Pulley
- GM Race Exhaust
- Upgraded head studs and bolts as necessary

The way I see it, GM installs all these parts for me, I get, maybe 250 out of my 2.2 w/o nitrous, keep my warranty and if anything breaks its on GM's head to fix. That'll make me happy till I get a rebuild around my 100,000 mile mark. but FI after that sounds good to me......

Sw4y1313

But you never needed a new crank for a high powered NA car. It would be a waste of time and money. Also those parts are wayyyyy pricey. You can save so much money getting them from someone else. Yes your dealer would install them, but mine would install non-GM parts as well. But they sure as hell arent going to waranty it. They would most likely black flag your car as soon as they installed the parts. If your spending that much on the engine, go FI. Such a waste...

Also, those high performance pistons, i believe they are built for boost, which would mean a lower compression then higher. Thats another thing that is going to screw you in the end. If you go with say an 11:1 CR then your pretty much screwed when it comes to boosting the car later. You would need to run race gas constantly to keep it from knocking. Because if ur going to "eventually" go FI, your going to have to get new pistons again to allow for some nice boost to make the power that engine is built for.

07cobaltguy

i want to N/A but i know its not as good as FI, ive never had a turbo car, so the idea of it scares me. im sure il want to go FI eventually, but il eventually have to get pistons anyhow.

Blue_Balt

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info.

7Thirty

Question(and please excuse me if this is a dumb question im more of a appearance than performance person) With all that parts mentioned to help get the 2.2 to 250 N/A would those upgrades be in vain if you were looking to do FI also.. or would they just help push you higher HP with the FI

RedBaseBolt

you could push higher hp with the mods except hi compression. It might be the only thing that would hinder a F/I build

7Thirty

So basically the build suggested minus the 11:1 pistons?

Sw4y1313

If your going to go FI, you dont need to go that crazy. To be suited for 400-600hp, all you need to put in are forged pistons, rods and preferably ARP Headstuds. The crank is good for 600hp, and the sleves are good for about 500hp. They put the sleeves up to about 750hp and they started to melt and warp. So they say to be safe replace the sleeves for anything over 600hp.

TurboTechRacing

iTrader: (24)

I hit almost 300 wheel HP on my 2.2L ecotec cavalier before any nitrous or forced induction. Comp Cam stage 3 cams! (make power until about 8600 RPM)

IonNinja

:|

<10 char>

bridfi

sweet

TurboTechRacing

iTrader: (24)

It is fun, only bad thing is the car IDLES at about 1400 RPM, so it is very hard to drive on the street.

07cobaltguy

wow thats a hell of an idle, im not sure what my stage 2 cams are going to be like, buy im excited to see what kind of gains i get. im thinking about TTRs new valves and some springs, to help.

Delta2.2

so ur engine was FULLY built in this case. and u had tuneing software like HPT i assume to tune it. thats why we cant achieve that number, damn tuneing

Blue_Balt

iTrader: (1)

Damn, my idle is less than that at below freezing temps.

slindborg

no, they are having the stock ecu remapped (recalibrated). No piggy back involved

IonNinja

what ecu's do they run? E16A?