cobalt.in.progress

Hi all. So I decided to indulge myself and purchased a G Tech Pro the other day. I should be getting it in the mail tomorrow. I figured it was cheaper than repeated dyno, and hell it's a fun toy. Anyways. My play is to do HP tests after every mod I install and I figured hey, I've seen plenty of threads here asking "how many hp will this give me?" so to help a few people out (at least I hope) I'm going to add to this forum every time I install a new mod. Right now I'm bone stock. Here's a list of what I'm planning on doing:

1) New wheels. This shouldn't produce much, but since the reading is HP at the wheels, new wheels should reduce the rotational mass and raise HP slightly. I'm actually probably going to pick some up Sat.
2) CAI. I haven't decided which one yet, but I'll probably get the Injen (I have no idea if I spelled that right). This should come within the next month
3) Exhaust. Again, haven't decided on which one yet. Feel free to chime in and give opinions. Should be installed within 2 to 3 months.
4) Headers. Same situation as above.
5) Down pipe. 3 to 4 months.
6) Stage 2 Jet Chip Module. Prob 4 months.

I wanted to be able to download the results to a pc, and meant to order the RR model, but I was a ******* and got the SS instead by mistake. I'll take some digital photos of the graphs the unit produces and post those too.

So anyways, look for my follow up with a bone stock run in the next few days.


Update (10/22) According to UPS I should be getting my package today so look for some baseline numbers to you by wednesday. I'm going to play around with some formulas to see if I can get the number reading closer to Orng's actual mustang dyno results. Hopefully the differences will remain close to linier as modifications progress.

Update (10/24) Got my G Tech yesterday and I've put down 3 baseline runs so far. Here are my results. Feel free to comment on the accuracy...

Run #1 125 HP @ 5071 RPM, 152 FTLBS @ 4246 RPM
Run #2 120 HP @ 5608 RPM, 127 FTLBS @ 4489 RPM
Run #3 123 HP @ 5359 RPM, 134 FTLBS @ 4286 RPM

The torque numbers seem a little loopy but the HP numbers are pretty consistant. Another member posted his stock hp number at around 116 at the wheels based on a mustang dyno. My question to all of you is if I changed the vehicle weight to manipulate the peak numbers and reduce them down to actual dyno tests, would the change be linear in terms of hp and torque deltas after installing mods? Please chime in.

an0malous

hp numbers on G-Techs are pretty hokey man.
dont trust the numbers themselves. but what you can do, is notice changes as you mod.

its probably gonna tell you you have alot more HP than you really do.
but at least you can see if it goes up when you add mods.

OrngBalt

Agreed, we may not be able to trust the numbers but they could give us reference. if he does a bone stock and adds a CAI we know that should be good for 8-12 at most... if his reading is 20, we cut it in half and got a number to work with.

I am curious to see what this will turn out to be... hope in.progress keeps up with it.

cobalt.in.progress

well yeah that was kind of the idea. I'm going to take an average of runs though and see if it'll help a little with the accuracy.

an0malous

I did the same thing with my GMPP exhaust install on my interceptor.
the numbers were a bit out to lunch (290hp hehe)
but they rose about 16 hp (at the crank) which sounds just about right for the gmpp

cobalt.in.progress

real quick... here's one review I read which seems to be on point. It gives some formulas to work with to tighten the accuracy. They account for wind resistance and inertia. Body roll and sway during acceleration and breaking are probably the most significant factors that account for error.

http://www.seight.com/g-tech.html

Novajoe

I used to have a g-tech and it's pretty accurate as long as you find a level road and enter in the correct weight.

I weighed my car at the dump for the weight and ran it at the strip at an srt dyno day. All my #s were within 1% difference of the track/dyno #s.

I think the biggest problem is finding a level road. Your local drag strip is probably the best place for it.

light'bolt

Averaging the runs will only give you repeatability not accuracy. You'll need a known value to check the accuracy.

Accuracy of the Accelerometer plus the RPM's through the cigarette lighter will give you your uncertainty. If the accelerometer is not accurate or the rpm readings are not accurate then no amount of averaging will make it better.

Probably why they stress the use of a smooth road since any noticable jar or bump will affect the reading from the accelerometer. I wonder how they calculate the g-force difference when shifting from 1st to second?

cobalt.in.progress

I guess the term I was looking for was precision.

Novajoe

same thing...

njlopez3

cool idea. where you at in az?

cobalt.in.progress

not the same thing.


I'm in Mesa/Tempe. I'm in Tempe more than Mesa.

Pacific Cobalt

I have a G-tech pro SS
The Hp results your getting is Net Horsepower and not Wheel HP or Crank HP like most of us are use to
My 2.2 cobalt with all stock parts got 114 hp to 117 hp on my first runs

cobalt.in.progress

really? thats interesting. Can you explain to me exactly what net horsepower is? Would it still give an accurate hp change after a mod?

Pacific Cobalt

I heard nothing but bad things about JET CHIP you might want to take that off your list
There is no way to chip the Ecotec PCM

Dustin

Bahah. Stage 2 Jet Chip ftw.

cobalt.in.progress

It's a plug and play module. It's like a piggyback. There's been mixed reviews. Some people have said they've never heard anything good about it, but a lot more are interested in the product and think it sounds legit. So until somebody speaks up that has had experience with a similar product from them I'm going to keep it in the game plan. Somebody has to suck it up and try it. You can look here to see if it works or not. If it doesnt, ebay is always there for some sucker.

Pacific Cobalt

Well since the JETCHIP plugs into your OBD2 port and not into your mass air flow sensor like those Ebay chips (resistors) I think it's worth gambling to find out if it really works. Let us know how it turns out

pthrift

looks like an interesting idea. keep us posted; don't let this go by the wayside~

cobalt.in.progress

still waiting on the g tech... glad i paid for 2 day shipping

Pacific Cobalt

A stock 2.2 cobalt has 145 hp at the crank, 125 at the wheel and my G-tech pro says 117 Hp Net
In this case 8 Hp was lost because of aerodynamic drag
Net Hp is a real time reading that takes into account all factors that could slow your car down like windy weather for example
And yes you'll still know if you mod got you more Hp

silverSS

1- New wheels dont give you hp lmao.
2-Good Choice.
3-Good Choice. Reminder: 4cyl=shitty exhaust sound.
4-4cyl 's do not have headers.
5-Good Choice.
6- wtf are you thinking. Horrible Idea. These chips dont do ANYTHING but maybe even hurt your car.

Silly ricer, if you wanted to add hp and go fast you bought the wrong car

laserblue2006

^^^dude its his money so STFU....he didnt ask for opinions he was just tellin us what he was gonna do...

Spanky's Monkey

iTrader: (6)

ricer? i guess all modded cobalts are ricers then uh? i do believe that is what the cobalt was intended for. maybe not our little 2.2s but really does it matter. if it wasn't for shitty slow cars the aftermarket need for speed would not exist. i suggest you go kill yerself right now.

joeworkstoohard

jetchips generally work okay on cars that are stock or have basic bolt ons.

i dunno if i would use one as a tuning solution on a highly modified car, but they do work on mostly stock machines.