bluebaltjim

for wheel weights the best and most complete resource ive found is

http://www.wheelweights.net/

its in pdf form, but almost any wheel you can think of in any size is listed with its weight

elecblue06

iTrader: (1)

i just got the ze 912s so far I like em, million times stickier then the hancock optimus 725 my car came with

DTC_34

OK guys. I work for Discount Tire company. IF you are going to 17's or 18's your call handle better debating on the tire you go with. I took off those shitty continental and put on some cheap kumho 711 and my care handles better with the kumho's than the conti. I can take turns faster and my wet traction is alot better than befroe. The down side to that is my gas mileage got worse and it raised my car. If you want to know about what tires to get for your car give me a shout. I would perfer to go to a BFG G-Force sport or the BFG Kdw NT or a Nitto Neo Gen. Those would the tires I would suggest for our cars. The only down side to the G-force sport is the tire is really soft along with the neo gen as well. The BFG KDW NT has had problems with the bead leaking around the tire and it does create some road noise. Its really a toss up to you man on what you want to do with tires. You will get a good ride and you will be replacing them often. Now on rims its hard to say. It all depends on what your looking for. From my point if your going to get a feather light wheel, there are serveral companys I can look at for that.

Black07LS

OK the Continentals suck *****. It's not shocking the Kumho's handle better. With the same tire one set 225/50/15 the other 215/45/17 on rims that are 8 pounds heavier what is the handling diff.?

Yes...but $200 each Falkens are $95 each

$200=9.5 pounds each
$95=11 pounds each

DTC_34

I'm runing 225/45/17 kumho 711 on my car. I could have put 235/45/17, which is not a fitment for my car , unless you hace the right off set.

Black07LS

My ? is how much better will the 15's that are 8 pound lighter handle? I had also considered the 225/45/17's but 215/45's help keep price down.

235/45/17 would be badass what off set+how wide rim needed? better yet 235/40/17's

OK 7.5"wide for 45's and 8"wide for 40's but 40's are a better match

g5mike

Had this tire,its awsome!

Black07LS

I like the look of 18's but I just doen't want something that heavy

HAD? It just came out. Did you have 512's maybe? 912 replaced 512. I had 512's on a different car and oved them.

What kind of dog(s) Mike, I have a Rott and a Doberman mix.

g5mike

615s i meant,I want some falkons but they are too low profile,i want a highly rated dry/wet...pooch is a border collie/Rhodhesian Ridgeback

Bullioncolin

ok i have bsa 17x7 black / chrome lip with 215/45/17 and i got to say the whole switch between the stock 15 steels and the 17's made a differance in feel, slower that is, their a bit heavier than stock but the car is lowerd and look sweet, plus i payed real cheap for the whole thing so look into them.

Black07LS

Were did you get them?

Wet/dry is what was good about 512's and they say better with 912's. Rhodhesian Ridgeback? never heard of, but border collies are cool

joeworkstoohard

to put it into perspective, the wheels on my BMW weigh in at just under 11lbs each. i tested out a set on there that were approx 20lbs each.. and the difference was huge. i'd say, go with as light as you can without being stupid.

honestly, for cheap+light, the 15 inch steelies really are not that bad.

i would try to find a set of the stock alloys for a malibu, they'll look nice and not be too bad in weight.

Black07LS

Is Malibu bolt pattern 4x100? I want wider (15x7) rims so the 225's will have a better contact patch.

Missed your post. Rims look good. I had 205/55/16's on a Cavalier and when I changed to 225/50/16's people started asking if they're 18's

Archie

Damn, you guys are teaching this kid some really wrong info!!!

The gas mileage will be the same no matter what. It doesn't matter what the diameter of the rim is, its the overall diameter of the tire. Jeeze, I thought you guys would have known that.

Discount tire emloyee- I thought you would have caught that. How did your gas mileage get worse? Since you work at Discount, I would have thought that you would be smart enough to check the overall diameter of the tire you put on there to make sure it would be the same, or at least very very close to the diameter of the stockers. Also, assuming you put on the correct size tire, your vehicle would not be raised up higher. Did it alter your spring height? No it didn't. It just appears like you have a larger wheel well gap because you have less tire and more rim. Next, the only reason your traction is better, unless you went with a wider tire, is because the sidewall of the tire is shorter, again assuming you put on the correct size. With a shorter sidewall, that allows less rollover in the tires, giving you more response.

G-Force Sports aren't really a soft tread tire. They are actually kind of a hard compound for a W rated tire. It has a 340 treadwear rating, which is good for about 30K miles. Don't bother comparing other tire company's treadwear rating, because every company uses a different scale. Its only good for comparing within the same company. The KDW is rated 300, good for around 24K miles. As for the bead leaking, if the tire is mounted properly, there will be no leak. Period. But yes, the KDW New Tread has some road noise, and who wouldn't expect it with a tread design like that.

Its okay, we all know that Discount employees aren't trained properly.

Original Poster- The 15's will be the best ride, and best performance for the quarter mile. The 17's will be a considerably rougher ride, and will be best for cornering, and look better for those that like that kind of thing.
What are you looking to do with the car, 1/4 mile, auto-x, show?

Black07LS

I'll start with mileage that was between the 225/50/15 (shorter than stock) and 215/45/17 (this tire is taller than stock) I already know the tires I'm using, they are well rounded LOL but ya good wet/dry good tread life even a little snow and there V-rated. If I was going for show it would be 18's or bigger. If 15's corner so poorly why do the auto-xers use them? Also lighter rims are suppose to help with braking and let the suspension work better. And as for the ride are you taking the overall weight (rim+tire) into consideration? I may do some auto-x or drag as a casual thing but just a little weekend fun. I want a fun street car(light to light or play on some tight twisties in a secluded area). And I haven't been a kid for a while now. I guess I may be a kid depending on your age. (as I get older I find myself calling people kid at older ages) BTW Nice Goat.

Archie

The tires are 7/10ths of an inch different in overall diameter. That is really not that much. You are looking at less than a 3% difference, deamed OK by the Tire Industry Association for ABS, speedo, and odometer. Do you honestly think that tiny distance is really going to affect your gas mileage? Its like all the people that think that 1/4 ounce of weight on a wheel will balance the wheel perfectly so that you won't feel any hop. A quarter of an oz makes no difference in what you feel in the car. Just like 7/10ths of an inch makes no measureable difference in your mileage.

15's work well for auto x, because you want a nice progressive turn. Which is what a tall sidewall gives you. Plus rubber is lighter than aluminum. But if you do notice auto cross tires, they are not the stock height tire, they are shorter. For more response. Real auto cross is a balance between response and progressiveness. But if you look at actual road races, what do they all use? Low profile tires, generally below an AR of 45. They adjust the progression by changing air pressure. Something that autocrossers do if they are smart, and have the money to bring a portable air compressor.

Of course having lighter wheels will help braking. It is less unsprung weight, the less you have, the better the car will perform, accel, decel, and handling.

What is the weight gonna do for the ride? Absolutely nothing. What makes the ride better or worse is the amount of air under the vehicle. The taller the sidewall, the greater amount of air to cushion the bumps.

By the way, what are the tires that are on the wheels?

Do you know what the V rating affects on your vehicle, specifically? Or what it signifies?

bluebaltjim

M 81 mph 130 km/h
N 87 mph 140km/h Temporary Spare Tires
P 93 mph 150 km/h
Q 99 mph 160 km/h Studless & Studdable Winter Tires
R 106 mph 170 km/h H.D. Light Truck Tires
S 112 mph 180 km/h Family Sedans & Vans
T 118 mph 190 km/h Family Sedans & Vans
U 124 mph 200 km/h
H 130 mph 210 km/h Sport Sedans & Coupes
V 149 mph 240 km/h Sport Sedans, Coupes & Sports Cars

Archie

Good job at posting the ratings in mph, but that still doesn't answer my question about what it affects, or why they have different ratings.

I don't think you guys know. I know. I work at a shop that actually requires us to take tests on this kind of info.

I'm trying to find out how much OP really knows. Since it seems like he thinks he knows.

BTW: you are still missing 3 speed ratings, bluebalt.

ARedWhiner

get 22's lolz

Archie

LOL

I think he will like his handling after that.

ARedWhiner

well maybe he should get 26's then

bluebaltjim

Replacement tires must have a speed rating equal to or greater than the rating of the original tires to maintain vehicle speed capability. If the replacement tires are a lower speed rating than shown on the vehicle tire placard, the vehicle speed capability is restricted to that of the replacement tires.
You must choose a speed rating that meets your operating needs and ensure you do not exceed the rated speed of your tires.

P 93 mph (150 km/h)
Q 99 mph (160 km/h)
R 106 mph (170 km/h)
S 112 mph (180 km/h)
T 118 mph (190 km/h)
U 124 mph (200 km/h)
H 130 mph (210 km/h)
V 149 mph (240 km/h)
W 168 mph (270 km/h)
Y 186 mpg (300 km/h)
Z 186+ mpg (300+ km/h)

Also, while speed ratings are not a direct indicator of tire handling capabilities, it is generally true that a higher rating may translate to different handling characteristics. If you decrease the speed rating, you must ensure that you are familiar with the handling characteristics of your vehicle and adjust your driving to the lower rating.

Treadwear grades are an indication of a tire's relative wear rate. The higher the treadwear number is, the longer it should take for the tread to wear down.

A control tire is assigned a grade of 100. Other tires are compared to the control tire. For example, a tire grade of 200 should wear twice as long as the control tire.

Of current tires:

*

15% are rated below 200
*

25% are rated 201 - 300
*

32% are rated 301 - 400
*

20% are rated 401 - 500
*

6% are rated 501 - 600
*

2% are rated above 600

Traction grades are an indication of a tire's ability to stop on wet pavement. A higher graded tire should allow a car to stop on wet roads in a shorter distance than a tire with a lower grade. Traction is graded from highest to lowest as "AA", "A", "B", and "C".

Of current tires:

*

3% are rated “AA”
*

75% are rated “A”
*

22% are rated “B”
*

only 1 line of tires rated “C”


Temperature grades are an indication of a tire's resistance to heat. Sustained high temperature (for example, driving long distances in hot weather), can cause a tire to deteriorate, leading to blowouts and tread separation. From highest to lowest, a tire's resistance to heat is graded as “A”, “B”, or “C”.

Of current tires:

*

27% are rated “A”
*

59% are rated “B”
*

11% are rated “C”

Tire inflation pressure is the level of air in the tire that provides it with load-carrying capacity and affects the overall performance of the vehicle. The tire inflation pressure is a number that indicates the amount of air pressure– measured in pounds per square inch (psi)–a tire requires to be properly inflated. (You will also find this number on the vehicle information placard expressed in kilopascals (kPa), which is the metric measure used internationally.)

Manufacturers of passenger vehicles and light trucks determine this number based on he vehicle's design load limit, that is, the greatest amount of weight a vehicle can safely carry and the vehicle's tire size.The proper tire pressure for your vehicle is referred to as the "recommended cold inflation pressure."

Remember, the correct pressure for your tire is what the vehicle manufacturer has listed on the placard, NOT what is listed on the tire itself.

Because tires are designed to be used on more than one type of vehicle, tire manufacturers list the "maximum permissible inflation pressure" on the tire sidewall. This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that should ever be put in the tire under normal driving conditions.

g5mike

G5GT wheels are 21 pounds,winter resistant and a member on here is selling his for five bills

Bullioncolin

Ebay, i payed only 200 for the whole set but it was like 98 for shipping and handling, and i bought nankang tires and i got to say i only payed like 500 for it all and i love it, but i still feel the 17's robbed low end , so for rolls and street race yeah 17 and higher but for auto-x 16's and lower

knwldge54

Thank you Archie. I was hoping someone would chime in on all the bs info posted on page 1.