How much better are light rims?
#51
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-23-07
Location: Orange, CA
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For instance, he has P rated and Z rated tires as the lowest and highest rated, respectively. For one, P rated tires are not made by any of the major tire manufacturers anymore. They are extinct.
And two, Z rated tires do not exist. They did back in the 80's for tires over 168mph, but not anymore. The highest speed rated tire is actually a Y in paranthases, like this (Y), not Z.
Also, while speed ratings are not a direct indicator of tire handling capabilities, it is generally true that a higher rating may translate to different handling characteristics.
And apparently, since no one knows. The tire's speed ratings are designated by one very important test. This test is high speed failure. The tires are run at their intended speed at maximum pressure, for one hour. If it doesn't deform, detred, chunk, have any irregularity, or blow up, the tire is deemed safe.
And Jim, you forgot to mention that Load Index is actually more important than Speed Rating. This is because the average joe will not exceed the speed rating of the tire for 1 hour, but the average joe will overload their vehicle's max weight whenever they get the chance.
Remember, the correct pressure for your tire is what the vehicle manufacturer has listed on the placard, NOT what is listed on the tire itself.
Acomplishing my quest to spread true knowledge, one thread at a time.
#52
Junior Member
Join Date: 07-19-06
Location: Milltown, NJ
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Centerline rims would be the way to go. Even though I don't own a set, I have heard great feedback on them. Their 17's are I believe 15 lbs. And are made from billet so you know that they can hold.
http://www.centerlinewheels.com/whee...d=36&sw_id=262
~~Alex
http://www.centerlinewheels.com/whee...d=36&sw_id=262
~~Alex
#53
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-16-07
Location: Marion,Ohio
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Centerline rims would be the way to go. Even though I don't own a set, I have heard great feedback on them. Their 17's are I believe 15 lbs. And are made from billet so you know that they can hold.
http://www.centerlinewheels.com/whee...d=36&sw_id=262
~~Alex
http://www.centerlinewheels.com/whee...d=36&sw_id=262
~~Alex
Last edited by Black07LS; 09-03-2007 at 09:36 PM.
#55
Less Rotations = Less Gas Consumed
Less gas + Greater distance traveled per rotation = Better MPG
#56
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-16-07
Location: Marion,Ohio
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
15" Falken Hanabi (11 pounds) $95
17" Flik ftd (17 pounds) $89
17" Flik Wasp (19 pounds) $99
http://edgeracing.com/2005/Chevrolet/Cobalt/wheels/17/
17" Flik ftd (17 pounds) $89
17" Flik Wasp (19 pounds) $99
http://edgeracing.com/2005/Chevrolet/Cobalt/wheels/17/
#57
Yeah, man, I can't stand some of the crap people post on these forums now. You have to sift through all the BS to find some real info. And then you have people like BluebaltJim that just copies and pastes crap from other websites, that may or may not be true or outdated.
For instance, he has P rated and Z rated tires as the lowest and highest rated, respectively. For one, P rated tires are not made by any of the major tire manufacturers anymore. They are extinct.
And two, Z rated tires do not exist. They did back in the 80's for tires over 168mph, but not anymore. The highest speed rated tire is actually a Y in paranthases, like this (Y), not Z.
False. A higher speed rated tire, is required by law to perform better.
And apparently, since no one knows. The tire's speed ratings are designated by one very important test. This test is high speed failure. The tires are run at their intended speed at maximum pressure, for one hour. If it doesn't deform, detred, chunk, have any irregularity, or blow up, the tire is deemed safe.
And Jim, you forgot to mention that Load Index is actually more important than Speed Rating. This is because the average joe will not exceed the speed rating of the tire for 1 hour, but the average joe will overload their vehicle's max weight whenever they get the chance.
Jim- This is the most important part of everything that you posted. This cannot be stressed enough, because there are so many people that look at the sidewall of their tires, and fill it up to that pressure. Then, once they get on the freeway, take a 6 hour road trip, the tires heat up, the air inside expands, resulting in 5-10 psi higher, and... BOOOM!! Tire failure. Then the customer comes back and says "Your tires are defective, I want full reimbursement." Morons.
Acomplishing my quest to spread true knowledge, one thread at a time.
For instance, he has P rated and Z rated tires as the lowest and highest rated, respectively. For one, P rated tires are not made by any of the major tire manufacturers anymore. They are extinct.
And two, Z rated tires do not exist. They did back in the 80's for tires over 168mph, but not anymore. The highest speed rated tire is actually a Y in paranthases, like this (Y), not Z.
False. A higher speed rated tire, is required by law to perform better.
And apparently, since no one knows. The tire's speed ratings are designated by one very important test. This test is high speed failure. The tires are run at their intended speed at maximum pressure, for one hour. If it doesn't deform, detred, chunk, have any irregularity, or blow up, the tire is deemed safe.
And Jim, you forgot to mention that Load Index is actually more important than Speed Rating. This is because the average joe will not exceed the speed rating of the tire for 1 hour, but the average joe will overload their vehicle's max weight whenever they get the chance.
Jim- This is the most important part of everything that you posted. This cannot be stressed enough, because there are so many people that look at the sidewall of their tires, and fill it up to that pressure. Then, once they get on the freeway, take a 6 hour road trip, the tires heat up, the air inside expands, resulting in 5-10 psi higher, and... BOOOM!! Tire failure. Then the customer comes back and says "Your tires are defective, I want full reimbursement." Morons.
Acomplishing my quest to spread true knowledge, one thread at a time.
hey i just like throwing gas on fire, and you seem like one of those people who are easily agitated, i cant be expected not to give you something to flame about. you seem to enjoy it soooo much.
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-23-07
Location: Orange, CA
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm really not such a bad guy.
15" Falken Hanabi (11 pounds) $95
17" Flik ftd (17 pounds) $89
17" Flik Wasp (19 pounds) $99
17" Flik ftd (17 pounds) $89
17" Flik Wasp (19 pounds) $99
#59
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-16-07
Location: Marion,Ohio
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK 17" Hanabi's and 235/40/17 Nexen N3000's about $765 shipped. Thats about $65 over budget but I'm not going to buy 'til income tax time anyway, so I might get this setup. Will this fit with springs? I like the Progress springs (1.5"F-2"R) or maybe just SS/SC springs with the 235's
Last edited by Black07LS; 09-04-2007 at 11:59 AM.
#60
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-23-07
Location: Orange, CA
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pics? That would be my first choice but out of my budget. The specs for 235/40/17 say at least 8' rim, so you would be better off with a 17"x8.5" (flatter contact patch) but good luck finding a set to fit a Cobalt + $$$.
OK 17" Hanabi's and 235/40/17 Nexen N3000's about $765 shipped. Thats about $65 over budget but I'm not going to buy 'til income tax time anyway, so I might get this setup. Will this fit with springs? I like the Progress springs (1.5"F-2"R) or maybe just SS/SC springs with the 235's
OK 17" Hanabi's and 235/40/17 Nexen N3000's about $765 shipped. Thats about $65 over budget but I'm not going to buy 'til income tax time anyway, so I might get this setup. Will this fit with springs? I like the Progress springs (1.5"F-2"R) or maybe just SS/SC springs with the 235's
And as you can see, I need to lower my car. But I'm not gonna just simply lower it, I am going to get the entire FE5 suspension. So it will be the same height and handling as the 2.0L. Maybe better handling, since it is lighter.
#61
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-16-07
Location: Marion,Ohio
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is the only pic I have with my wheels, but its a pretty good one. I should take a pic from the back, everyone says that the tires are almost too big for the LS ass. But wider is better. And 235/40R17 fits just fine, without any rollover. For wheels and tires, i paid just about 1200 total. I got the wheels through Big-O, and the tires I got BFG G-force Sports at Costco.
And as you can see, I need to lower my car. But I'm not gonna just simply lower it, I am going to get the entire FE5 suspension. So it will be the same height and handling as the 2.0L. Maybe better handling, since it is lighter.
And as you can see, I need to lower my car. But I'm not gonna just simply lower it, I am going to get the entire FE5 suspension. So it will be the same height and handling as the 2.0L. Maybe better handling, since it is lighter.
#62
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-23-07
Location: Orange, CA
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Look's good. Bronze rims would look better IMO. but if we all liked the same thing our cars would all look the same. Life would be BORING. As for the suspension work...HELL YA you da man! Now I think I'm going to get the Hanabi's (Bronze :p) and the Nexens. this could change by the time I get the $$$. I think I know how your tires look from the rear, just in the wheel well at the top and sticking way out at the bottom? I had a Cavalier with 225/50/16's, thats how it was. How is this setup in rain? Wide tires=hydoplaning
Exactly on the look of the car from the rear. Barely in the wheel well at the top, but way wide, almost beaner, at the bottom. (No offense)
This setup is sweet in the rain. I got up the courage one day while it was raining hard(happens like twice a year in AZ) and went out on the open freeway, took it up nice and steady to about 100, all the while, changing lanes back and forth. NO HYDROPLANING at all. I think it has to do with the tread design. Not only are they directional, which is always better in rain, but they have two circumferential grooves down the center that are real deep. They help to keep some tire on the road at all times. Just be careful when hammering hard off the line with them in the rain, the little bit of torque steer that I have becomes very noticeable. To be honest, once you get the hang of it, its actually kind of fun.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DANRICKARD
Problems/Service/Maintenance
8
10-01-2015 12:08 AM
z28addiction
Wanted - What to buy - All categories
0
09-28-2015 12:03 AM