I need a good trouble shooter, HELP! m62 powered l61
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I need a good trouble shooter, HELP! m62 powered l61
I recently supercharged my 2007 2.2l l61 G5
Tuning is Trifecta
Map is ZZP'z 2 bar re-wired for a 2.2L(Its sold for the 2.4 on there site, just 2 wires needed to be re pinned)
Throttle body Is a used LSJ's
Injectors are used stage 2 42lb'ers
The problem.
On the 1st drive the car drove fine, maybe 30mins in the engine cut off, that car held power just engine off, but I was able to crank and restart.
then another my guess 30mins in the car died again, this time I could not restart it and ended up pushing it 3miles home, with the help of 2 friends.
I can get the car to start BUT I cant get consistent starts, I can turn it off, then on and after a couple of times it just cranks
The mechanical Vacuum gauge is reading 20, so there are no leaks
The battery has a full 12volts
and my air to fuel is a 14.8
My last idea is to replace the throttle body, thinking maybe its defective?
any thoughts!?!?! Im running out of ideas
heres a vid
Tuning is Trifecta
Map is ZZP'z 2 bar re-wired for a 2.2L(Its sold for the 2.4 on there site, just 2 wires needed to be re pinned)
Throttle body Is a used LSJ's
Injectors are used stage 2 42lb'ers
The problem.
On the 1st drive the car drove fine, maybe 30mins in the engine cut off, that car held power just engine off, but I was able to crank and restart.
then another my guess 30mins in the car died again, this time I could not restart it and ended up pushing it 3miles home, with the help of 2 friends.
I can get the car to start BUT I cant get consistent starts, I can turn it off, then on and after a couple of times it just cranks
The mechanical Vacuum gauge is reading 20, so there are no leaks
The battery has a full 12volts
and my air to fuel is a 14.8
My last idea is to replace the throttle body, thinking maybe its defective?
any thoughts!?!?! Im running out of ideas
heres a vid
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I dont know the car ran like new before the install, it only has 27k on the speedo.
At 1st I thought it was the maf, My maf harness has 2 same color wires for the ia1 and low refence,and I needed to pull both out to wire the lsj 2.5bar sensor, but abandoned the idea, and went with the zzp plug and play 2 bar, I had no way of identifying the wires since both were tan, but I hooked the car up to a data scanner that can read sensor data, and i was able to rule out a mis wired maf, it read 98* then I switched the wires to see if it was wrong and then it read 300*+ So I know it was wired correct from the start.
I replaced the plugs with autolite xp iriduim and did not gap them since they looked damn close to the stock gap
I just dont see what could of clogged the filter if the car ran fine before the install, thou Im not ruling that out as a option, is it possible the stp octane boost clogged the filter?(I added a bottle since I had a tank of 87 still in there)
At 1st I thought it was the maf, My maf harness has 2 same color wires for the ia1 and low refence,and I needed to pull both out to wire the lsj 2.5bar sensor, but abandoned the idea, and went with the zzp plug and play 2 bar, I had no way of identifying the wires since both were tan, but I hooked the car up to a data scanner that can read sensor data, and i was able to rule out a mis wired maf, it read 98* then I switched the wires to see if it was wrong and then it read 300*+ So I know it was wired correct from the start.
I replaced the plugs with autolite xp iriduim and did not gap them since they looked damn close to the stock gap
I just dont see what could of clogged the filter if the car ran fine before the install, thou Im not ruling that out as a option, is it possible the stp octane boost clogged the filter?(I added a bottle since I had a tank of 87 still in there)
Last edited by EcoTecDriver; 08-05-2010 at 08:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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stock gap! Have you asked any of the charged guys what gap there running? That could be an issue, but i dont know. Not wanting to turn over after sure sounds like a MAF issue to me. Something with that maf is just not right, have you considered replacing the MAF?
You also said in another thread your TB was used right? I would just find a willing member to let you use one off there car, before you bother replacing it anyway.
You also said in another thread your TB was used right? I would just find a willing member to let you use one off there car, before you bother replacing it anyway.
Last edited by 09whteSSpssssh; 08-05-2010 at 08:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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If I can validate the maf is busted hell yea I would replace it, but wouldnt there be a code thrown?
and yes we should run our stock gap at .35 I was able to confirm this
and yes we should run our stock gap at .35 I was able to confirm this
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Yeah you would hope itd throw a code but hey stranger things have happened, I would borrow a maf and throttle body from someone to test, then youll know whether you need to spend money on a new one, or youll know its something with the setup of the (wiring,loose connection, etc.)
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And also if you know they come out of a car thats running fine that can also point you in the direction of whether its a part problem or the setup. Kill two birds with one stone. I had a mystery injector issue that gave me hell for two months so i feel your pain.
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No since I already had gapped plugs in, but I can double check them, I just dont think thats it.
I tested the injectors off the car and just jumped them with 12v, the solenoid is functioning so I canceled that out?
And the nice catch is I have only 17 days to find the problem, I need the car reliable for when I return to school for the fall semester!!!
And the nice catch is I have only 17 days to find the problem, I need the car reliable for when I return to school for the fall semester!!!
Last edited by EcoTecDriver; 08-05-2010 at 09:22 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Have you checked your battery cables are tight? Have you checked your grounds? This could deffinitley be an issue, make sure your fuses are all tight and that the screws that hold in the fuse blocks arent too tight or they can cause a short, could deffinitley be an intermittent electrical problem.
Yeah thats a bummer, My injector would work sometimes and not others, but it never caused a starting issue that i remember.
No since I already had gapped plugs in, but I can double check them, I just dont think thats it.
I tested the injectors off the car and just jumped them with 12v, the solenoid is functioning so I canceled that out?
And the nice catch is I have only 17 days to find the problem, I need the car reliable for when I return to school for the fall semester!!!
I tested the injectors off the car and just jumped them with 12v, the solenoid is functioning so I canceled that out?
And the nice catch is I have only 17 days to find the problem, I need the car reliable for when I return to school for the fall semester!!!
Last edited by 09whteSSpssssh; 08-05-2010 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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I checked the fuses, Grounds are in check that I know of.
I even went out right now and disconnected the battery and waited 10 mins and
start 1 ok
start 2 ok
Start 3 nothing
IS it possible that the injectors are messed up/glitching and flooding the car with gas?
I even went out right now and disconnected the battery and waited 10 mins and
start 1 ok
start 2 ok
Start 3 nothing
IS it possible that the injectors are messed up/glitching and flooding the car with gas?
#17
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First off car is tuned for the injectors are you sure they are 42z make sure your Maf sensor is put in the intake pipe correctly. Take a plug out after a no start and see if there is raw fuel on the spark plug. What was ure wot afr. How much r u boosting. Make sure your computer is correctly connected to harness I've seen this before... And one last thing if you check eery thing and you can't find a issue. Unplug ure maf sensor. They might be using only maf but if not tour car will go into the ve table . Hope this helps.
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Yes it is tuned for the injectors, The maf only fits one way, I already thought about that one
Im boosting 10 psi, I was running a little rich on the base tune @ wot, but Vince corrected this, and the new tune goes on tomorrow.
Explain the MAf unplugging part again?
Im boosting 10 psi, I was running a little rich on the base tune @ wot, but Vince corrected this, and the new tune goes on tomorrow.
Explain the MAf unplugging part again?
#19
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If Vince did not tune u directly maf which means ur ve table(volumetric efficiency) it tells the computer grams of air per cylinder in case of a maf failure. So if u r tuned ve and maf u could unplug ure maf and see what happens. I hope u under stand.... If it cuts out around 30 mins check ure fuel pressure make sure it is constant.
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The car can drive, I haven't taken it any further then a loop around the block.
Tow hook and new tune gets installed tomorrow, and I found a local texas member who may have had the same issue, Im giving him a call tomorrow.
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I dont know the car ran like new before the install, it only has 27k on the speedo.
At 1st I thought it was the maf, My maf harness has 2 same color wires for the ia1 and low refence,and I needed to pull both out to wire the lsj 2.5bar sensor, but abandoned the idea, and went with the zzp plug and play 2 bar, I had no way of identifying the wires since both were tan, but I hooked the car up to a data scanner that can read sensor data, and i was able to rule out a mis wired maf, it read 98* then I switched the wires to see if it was wrong and then it read 300*+ So I know it was wired correct from the start.
I replaced the plugs with autolite xp iriduim and did not gap them since they looked damn close to the stock gap
I just dont see what could of clogged the filter if the car ran fine before the install, thou Im not ruling that out as a option, is it possible the stp octane boost clogged the filter?(I added a bottle since I had a tank of 87 still in there)
At 1st I thought it was the maf, My maf harness has 2 same color wires for the ia1 and low refence,and I needed to pull both out to wire the lsj 2.5bar sensor, but abandoned the idea, and went with the zzp plug and play 2 bar, I had no way of identifying the wires since both were tan, but I hooked the car up to a data scanner that can read sensor data, and i was able to rule out a mis wired maf, it read 98* then I switched the wires to see if it was wrong and then it read 300*+ So I know it was wired correct from the start.
I replaced the plugs with autolite xp iriduim and did not gap them since they looked damn close to the stock gap
I just dont see what could of clogged the filter if the car ran fine before the install, thou Im not ruling that out as a option, is it possible the stp octane boost clogged the filter?(I added a bottle since I had a tank of 87 still in there)
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This what we are trying today.
If it was the TB I would be getting codes, So the hardware may not be the issue, We are looking at tuning now.
Vince said its not the 2 bar, He suspects a tuning issue with the MAF, SO he tweaked the tune, We will try this 1st.
He also wrote me a tune using the 1 bar, so that will be take 2.
If it was the TB I would be getting codes, So the hardware may not be the issue, We are looking at tuning now.
Vince said its not the 2 bar, He suspects a tuning issue with the MAF, SO he tweaked the tune, We will try this 1st.
He also wrote me a tune using the 1 bar, so that will be take 2.