2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

I want 200WHP...NA

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Old 09-16-2008, 09:37 AM
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You do realize that even if you actually accomplish 200whp n/a, the car won't be reliable at all anymore and will no longer be daily drivable. Not only that, but you won't be faster than 14's in the 1/4 on street tires and mid-high 13's on slicks. What's the point?

Throw a supercharger or turbo on there, hit 200whp, and be reliable and daily driveable still.
Old 09-16-2008, 09:40 AM
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if its feasible, sell your 2.2 or trade it in and pick up an SS/SC...stock you will see those numbers...and have soem more room to work up when you get greedy.

my $.02
Old 09-16-2008, 09:43 AM
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You're not gonna see 200 na without engine work.

However the best you're gonna get will be close. Around 170 whp with bolt ons, tune and cams.

Be happy with that since your motor won't blow itself up after 100,000 miles.
Old 09-16-2008, 09:48 AM
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^^^^^ A lot of those prices vary as well. You can knock a couple hundred off intake and exhaust. But I'm sure some things would cost more. If you would have had the cash, that fully built head on here that was for sale would have been perfect for you.
Old 09-16-2008, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 07cobalt19
REAR GEARS!!!! will help
You nub
Old 09-16-2008, 12:02 PM
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it wont cost you "slightly" more man.

it will cost you likely double, or even triple.
thats why people are asking you "why"
it just makes no sense.
Old 09-16-2008, 12:05 PM
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you guys left out ITBs
Old 09-16-2008, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by IonNinja
you guys left out ITBs
ITB's = Ghey Ricer mod for Civics.

Just Supercharge it like a good Chevy boy.
Old 09-16-2008, 12:08 PM
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The cheapest route is probably a 75 shot of nitrous.
Old 09-16-2008, 12:08 PM
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i really don't see what the big deal is here.

beef up the internals, lots of head work, lightweight flywheel, tune it to take 8000rpm, done.
Old 09-16-2008, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Greased
250 horses... really? youd need a new block.
why do you keep saying new block? im just curious our stock block has been proven to hold big numbers, its whats inside the block thats the week point (pistons, rods, ect..)

Unless you know some secret that we dont?
Old 09-16-2008, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by joeworkstoohard
i really don't see what the big deal is here.

beef up the internals, lots of head work, lightweight flywheel, tune it to take 8000rpm, done.
done is right...5-6K later.

its just not cost effective is what most people are getting at. I've got a moderate N/A build, lets take a look at what I've spent so far:

Injen Intake - $230
2.5" Exhaust (might wanna go 3" for a high rpm build) - $400
LSJ Exhaust Manifold - $50 (had Pacesetter which was $180)
LSJ Downpipe - $75
2.4 Intake Manifold - $150
Ported TB - $95
Patriot Stage 2 Cylinder Head - $1300
SMG Head Studs - $180
Cometic Head Gasket - $106

what I don't have but what will also be needed:
Stage 2 or Stage 3 Comp Cams - $470
Wiesco High Comp Pistons - $500 (likely more since they'd be custom)
Eagle Rods - $340 (probably not necessary but might as well while its torn apart)
Neutral Balance Shafts - $440

so an estimate of about $4500...

and then there are other misc costs for engine assembly and nuts/bolts

Last edited by IonNinja; 09-16-2008 at 12:55 PM.
Old 09-16-2008, 01:23 PM
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Buy a 2.4 block, and build that. that way you will still have your car to drive while you build that motor
Old 09-16-2008, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Greased
250 horses... really? youd need a new block.
ummm...no? stock block is good to 1,400hp, and doesnt require new cylinder sleeves until around 650+HP, and stock crankshaft is rated for 500HP

pistons and rods are the only weak part of the bottom end.
Old 09-16-2008, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by an0malous
it wont cost you "slightly" more man.

it will cost you likely double, or even triple.
thats why people are asking you "why"
it just makes no sense.
From where I stand right now with parts, it wont cost another double or triple to build the engine.

Based on IONNINJA's post on the 3rd page it would cost me roughly another $2500 for a built head, pistons, rods, head studs and new head gasket..going turbo at this point would cost me that for sure.

Originally Posted by IonNinja
done is right...5-6K later.

its just not cost effective is what most people are getting at. I've got a moderate N/A build, lets take a look at what I've spent so far:

Injen Intake - $230
2.5" Exhaust (might wanna go 3" for a high rpm build) - $400
LSJ Exhaust Manifold - $50 (had Pacesetter which was $180)
LSJ Downpipe - $75
2.4 Intake Manifold - $150
Ported TB - $95
Patriot Stage 2 Cylinder Head - $1300
SMG Head Studs - $180
Cometic Head Gasket - $106

what I don't have but what will also be needed:
Stage 2 or Stage 3 Comp Cams - $470
Wiesco High Comp Pistons - $500 (likely more since they'd be custom)
Eagle Rods - $340 (probably not necessary but might as well while its torn apart)
Neutral Balance Shafts - $440

so an estimate of about $4500...

and then there are other misc costs for engine assembly and nuts/bolts
I've got just about everything you've got there with the exception of the head, studs, gasket....and I've already spent alot more then you have for the parts I have....$500+ for exhaust, $500+ for header/dp. Already have cams on the way...only stage 1 though.

Based on full bolt ons, stg1 cams and a tune, where would you suspect I would sit right now in terms of WHP? Estimates obviously..

Originally Posted by ralliartist
You do realize that even if you actually accomplish 200whp n/a, the car won't be reliable at all anymore and will no longer be daily drivable. Not only that, but you won't be faster than 14's in the 1/4 on street tires and mid-high 13's on slicks. What's the point?

Throw a supercharger or turbo on there, hit 200whp, and be reliable and daily driveable still.
What is the reason that will make it unreliable as a DD? Stronger parts hurt that ability?

Last edited by jlmd; 09-16-2008 at 01:55 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 09-16-2008, 01:56 PM
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do you want 200 whp or good times at the track

if good times is what u seek, make sure you do tires/mounts. will make a huge difference
Old 09-16-2008, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Projekt
do you want 200 whp or good times at the track

if good times is what u seek, make sure you do tires/mounts. will make a huge difference
200 whp is my goal. May never get there...may get close and throw on a small nitrous shot to get there in the end, but im checking all the options.

Mounts already done. upper motor and front/rear tranny from ttr.
Old 09-16-2008, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by joeworkstoohard
i really don't see what the big deal is here.

beef up the internals, lots of head work, lightweight flywheel, tune it to take 8000rpm, done.
You don't think too hard, that's for sure.

What is the reason that will make it unreliable as a DD? Stronger parts hurt that ability?
I believe because when you put in better cams, the vibrating would be very annoying or something. I hear if you have an manual tranny and put in new cams, that you'll will have a hard time not stalling the car because of the crazy idle.

Last edited by Blue_Balt; 09-16-2008 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 09-16-2008, 02:27 PM
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All that monet to have 200hp and still be slow....
I would use that money to buy a 1G GSX and use the extra in mods or a LT1 Trans Am and have a DD and a car thats well over 200hp.....
Old 09-16-2008, 02:32 PM
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^^ dont go this route....i can make a 80's civic have 300hp cheaper than that, but thats not the point. He has a cobalt, not an 80's civic or a trans am
Old 09-16-2008, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue_Balt
You don't think too hard, that's for sure.



I believe because when you put in better cams, the vibrating would be very annoying or something. I hear if you have an manual tranny and put in new cams, that you'll will have a hard time not stalling the car because of the crazy idle.
i lol'd when i read this...

not at him...at you.

Originally Posted by HunterKiller89
^^ dont go this route....i can make a 80's civic have 300hp cheaper than that, but thats not the point. He has a cobalt, not an 80's civic or a trans am
for the price of a n/a build you could easily have a s/c build done, like a certian somone is doing to their 2.2

Last edited by Projekt; 09-16-2008 at 02:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 09-16-2008, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Perfect.disguise
All that monet to have 200hp and still be slow....
I would use that money to buy a 1G GSX and use the extra in mods or a LT1 Trans Am and have a DD and a car thats well over 200hp.....
That helps, thanks!
Old 09-16-2008, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by HunterKiller89
^^ dont go this route....i can make a 80's civic have 300hp cheaper than that, but thats not the point. He has a cobalt, not an 80's civic or a trans am
Yes, and if he bought one he would still..have a Cobalt..
That way when something goes wrong he will still have the basicaly stock Cobalt to DD.
Ehh, 80's Civics are ugly as hell..I'm sure you plan on getting it to 300whp with a swap/turbo so that fits a little more than just 80's Civics..
Old 09-16-2008, 02:49 PM
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Don't forget to buy a lifetime supply of Viagra, because you will instantly develope erectile disfunction after dumping this much money into a car for only 200hp and getting beat by almost everything coming off a car lot today.

Sorry man, I admire your curiousity to go all-motor. I guess it would be cool to feel the difference in how the engine responds in this little 4-banger on all-motor, but it's kinda like doing work to a lawn mower -- it'll do the same job it did before, only a little faster and the only people your gonna beat are other lawn mowers.

To me, modding a car is about moving up in rank, it's fun and slightly amusing to see a car go from stock to beating cars that are in a different "class". How much rank can you gain if you'd still lose to a stock SS/SC? You'll go from hanging with Stock civics, to hanging with modded civics.

Get an SS/SC, that way when you mod, you move up classes. You'll go from beating civics, other modded 4-bangers, to beating stock and lightly modded Evo's, Sti's, 350z's, G35's,.... you get the picture.
Old 09-16-2008, 02:55 PM
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Easy...

First bolt this up:



Then

http://www.zorst.com/kitinfo.html

Then





Hehehe, just kiddin. I wish you well on your build and if you have the money, the time, and its what you want, then build up what you want. Sure it may be harder than FI (lik eyou didnt know), and more expensive, but it would be more original and for that you get big points. If its rare, I like it, maybe thats why I bought an SC, around here, they are rare. Turbos are everywhere. My buddy bought a toda crate engine for his rsx-s, its 315whp N/A and I think he lost both nuts in the payment. But wow, what a beautiful car, and when he enters a show, he wins. Also, when people ask the whp and then find out its a 4cyl all motor build, they kneel and pray. I like the idea, just budget time and money.



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