IonNinja

the only thing that may hurt your streetability thats been mentioned so far is your cam choice, depending on how aggressive the cam is (you have stage 1's, which will definitely limit your ability to get to 200whp) and high comp pistons. Depending on the compression ratio, you may need to run race gas to prevent any knock.

I'd give you 160?whp with bolt ons, tune and stage 1 cams...don't know for sure though as I don't know anyone that has dyno'd with your setup.

RedBaseBolt

I was being liberal with 170 whp :P

ralliartist

bingo, the idle is crazy and the car will stall out like crazy. Massive tuning will be required. The worst thing I ever did was put a full race cam into a civic I owned, completely ruined that cars' DD ability. If I had went with the street cam, I would have been much better off. I had to let the car warm up in the mornings or I couldn't even leave the house cause if it was still cold, as soon as I touched the gas, it would just stall out.

Greased

not talking about block str. anymore. he needs to bore it out if he wants to get anywhere. no replacement for displacement... cept forced induction and apparently its overdone

Borderlin3

BUY A 2.4 CRATE ENGINE, AND BUILD THAT. It will be cheaper, and more reliable. Do some bolt ons

200hp is nothing these days, It will cost you like 5k in parts and advil to build a 2.2 to 200 and then you have a unstable engine that has so many things that could go wrong, that youll get halfway down the track and something will explode.

If you get a 2.4, you could do some of that stuff and get away with like 230 all motor.

elecblue06

iTrader: (1)

you dont even need all of that to get 230 all motor on a 2.4

triflow cams ported head and full bolt ons obviously a tune lol

Maven

iTrader: (1)

I applaud the OP for even having the ***** to post this question on such a biased site. Of course the guys and gals of Cobalt SS are gonna tell you to go blown, its how their cars come, and its the cheap and quick way to power. A dialed in NA engine takes more finesse, take more work, takes (maybe) a little more money, and doesnt yeild the same results.....but if thats what youre into GO FOR IT!!!!!

First of all I think 200whp is a perfectly reasonable goal. That right around 225hp at the crank, which on a 2.2 isnt rocket science, nor will it totally degrade drivability or durability(that one is just silly, this is coming from guys puting superchargers and turbos on stock engines, but anyway...) And yes its only about 225hp crank, I have yet to see any proof that the F23 causes anymore than approx an 11% power consumption(feel free to prove me wrong)

So what do you NEED:
Free flowing air intake: got it.

2.4 manifold: $240

Header/DP: got it( a different header size/brand/design may help depending on what you have now)

free flowing exhaust: got it(upgrading to 2.5" would be a good idea.

Balance shaft delete or neutral shafts: free-$450

Stage II or similar cams: $400-800

Valvesprings:$350-700

Ported head:$1000(possibly upgrade to LSJ head=$500)

11:1 pistons: $550-675

Head gasket/bolts(studs) $235

Tuning:$free-550 (Trifecta update cost?? other source??)

So thats from $ 2975-$5150(plus labor if you cant do work yourself)


You dont need a block, sleeves, stroker kit, you dont need cryo treatment, you dont need valves, you dont need rods, you wont need race gas, your car will be daily drivable(probably about a 1100-1200rpm idle) you dont need a clutch, flywheel, etc....etc...etc...

Hunterkiller was pretty much spot on, and as he pointed outif you go towards the $5000 end of this youre pretty likely to get closer to 215whp with a spot on tune and proper cam choice/installation(this is starting to approach the limit on 91/93 octane imo)

The only major item I would add as a solid maybe to the list that hasnt been mentioned is an upgraded ignition system, more specifically a box with timing curve control.

Greased

yeah, ok, really? cuz im pretty sure a s/c doesnt affect driveability at all if tuned properly. However, cams will ALWAYS reduce driveability. unless you do a VVT mod and good ******* luck w/ that.

the only way i see this ever hitting 200 whp is 8000 rpm limiter and ungodly low torque. congratulations on turning your cobalt into a honda

Joeyeljefe

if your getting cams get new lifters or you'll **** up your **** they need to be broken in together

Maven

iTrader: (1)

I didnt mean for you to think that i was saying forced induction causes drivability issues, I made my comment after the word "durability" and that is the trait I was referring to being potentially reduced by forced induction.

7000-8000rpm is absolutely where this combo is gonna make power, and there is no reason to believe that for some reason the torque is just gonna go away because we increase hp and the rev limit. It surely wont have 250+lbs torque like a mean blown engine will but there is no reason to believe we'd be sacrificing torque, Id be willing to wager that this combo would make torque equal to a lightly modded LE5.


And the Honda comment...... "some people you just cant reach"

No, they dont. the lifters dont even touch the cam in an ECO. However if the followers have significant or uneven wear they will need to be replaced, but this is not a requirement for the given power level, its just engine building basics.

Greased

yeah. and it will make max torque at 6000 rpm. real helpful getting off the line. All your doing w/ the mods you suggested is increasing volumetric efficiency at high rpms (disregarding the pistons). Which is all fun and all for a dyno queen, but its not very useable.

basically your creating the ultimate roll car...

oh and some hondas are aweome (the ones that are turbo'd like 25 psi crazy ****) but id honestly rather have more low end torque... its just way more fun to drive

Hockeyman

iTrader: (4)

this is all you need

jlmd

Thanks for all the info.

As it stands now, I'll be intalling my stage 1 cams until I decide how far to go into building the motor. Would you recommend replacing anything like valvesprings or retainers when these are installed? 74000KM on the motor...

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

while youve got the head out, i'd upgrade everything but the valves. new springs and retainers (ferrera) etc.

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Stage1's dont require any valvetrain upgrades, with the proper tools replacing the cams is about a 1.5-2hour job(actual time, not what youll pay) for someone with experience doing it. To replace the springs/retainers/keepers your looking at about another 1.5-2.0 hours actual time with the proper on car service tools. Without these tools it will take significantly longer and may actually require head removal. If you plan on stage 2's later, or you plan on road racing and you can swing the money for springs and trust someone to do the job the right/quick way, or you can do it yourself, then I'd say go for it so you have the headroom/piece of mind. But there is NO NEED to do them now. Most stage 1 type cams peak in the 6500-6800rpm area , and the stock valvetrain will survive that so long as you arent bouncing off a 7000rpm redline all the ttime.

jlmd

Again, thanks for the info.

If I were to go ahead and upgrade the valvetrain at the same time, are there any particular parts/brand you would recommend?


Also, to anyone who may know....at what level of mods would larger fuel injectors be needed/beneficial? I know that up until a certain point, the duty cycle on the stockers isnt near being maxed out, but when should it be considered?

Would full bolt ons and cams be enough to warrant upgrading them to say stock ss/sc injectors? Or is it strictly only needed if I were to go with a big power adder..?

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Ferrea IMO is absolutely the best for the money, no other company that youve heard offers a better product or even a similar product at a noticeable price difference.

Injectors will most likely be fine even with the cams, but yes, a fully modded NA 2.2 is probably near the point to where you would switch to SC 32#'s

Theres no reason to remove the head to replace cams. Or springs for that matter.

jlmd

You've been very helpful!

IonNinja

how big are the 2.2 injectors? 24#'s? if so, you shouldn't need to upgrade to LSJ injectors until you're around 200whp.

Tomtwtwtw

Keep in mind also that LSJ injectors power the supercharger as well. 200 whp in an LSJ requires 15-20% more fuel than 200whp n/a, based on the loss from the s/c.

Greased

mhmm truth. your BFC is around .5 ish and the LSJ is around .6-.7 (someone correct me if i am way off but its just an approximation)

hungryhip-ccp

iTrader: (2)

go buy an SI

jlmd

go play in the traffic. k? ..seriously..do it.

Greased

k... but you realize thats kind of what your doing. thats what hondas are known for. high revving ultra efficient engines.

xcmx

iTrader: (3)

dude to build ur engine naturally aspirated ur ganna need alot of cash..im not a fan of turbos but with a 4 cylinder you really have no choice. if u build a 8 putting a cam good bottom end head work and intake u can succeed huge hp but u just cant manage it with a 4 cylinder man.

i plan on ripping my car apart once the loans paid off..i want to convert mine to rwd with a v8.