Launching the 2.2L Auto! RPM's?
04-24-2006, 03:00 AM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-11-05
Location: Yonkers NY
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i can understand both points of view. as for launching your car, i dont kno ... but i can understand where cobss was possibly trying to go. around where i live we have a pretty big car enthusiast (sp?) following. people catch **** all the time for trying to run 16 second cars, and even 15 second cars. reminds me of a story. my boy used to have a 95 galant and he ran a 2g eclipse non turbo. make a long story short they got pulled over by state troopers and they asked my friend, "why are you racing slow cars"... haha well can i tell you when i heard that
now i have respect for every1 on this board but i figured id throw out another point of view. but yea turbo your car and then were talkin
now i have respect for every1 on this board but i figured id throw out another point of view. but yea turbo your car and then were talkin
04-24-2006, 12:53 PM
#28
Senior Member
Originally Posted by cobss187
why dont i take out my dads c6 vette and have you trade your car back in, theres always something bigger out there,
04-24-2006, 01:21 PM
#29
Member
Join Date: 02-26-06
Location: New York
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by RedBaseBolt
It's your daddy's , it doesn't count bro.
04-24-2006, 01:24 PM
#31
Originally Posted by cobss187
wow all i said was to upgrade it a bit, ******** i wasnt making fun of him i just think its pointless launchin an automatic car and yes im sure if he slapped a turbo and a few other mods on he could take me. and as for not knocking what i dont no, why dont you guys do the same cause you dont know what i have either, chances are, i would rape you 2.2 turbos out there. i never meant n e thing bad here, chill guys, and as for the sti, why dont i take out my dads c6 vette and have you trade your car back in, theres always something bigger out there, so talking **** is pointless from manufacturer to manufacturer i was just giving him some advice on upgrading in the chevy department not talking **** or talking down to him, wow if i knew it would be thing big a deal i would have shut my mouth, you 2.2 guys are really defensive
well, i said what i said only because you didn't answer the question... it's not a matter of 2.2 guys being defensive, it's a matter of 2.0 guys saying to get a better car instead of answering the question...
I love these threads.
04-24-2006, 04:08 PM
#37
I'm old school
Knock it off. This is an old argument and I'm sick of moderating the same thing over and over again.
Now as for the question and responses.
Brake torquing is the correct way to launch and auto. "Sunrise mj", I don't know what kind of car you are driving, but it's not a Cobalt. The 4T45E stock torque converter stalls at 2400 RPM. Try it. Put it in gear, lock the brake, floor the gas. Tach stops at 2400. I have a 3000 RPM stall converter, and the fuel cut off stops it at 2700.
I can't give you a good launch RPM anymore because my engine isn't stock. It will vary with engine torque. Basically, you want the highest RPM at which when you let go of the brake, the wheels don't spin.
This technique is hard on your TRANS FLUID, not your brakes. The brakes are stationary, and not producing any heat. The fluid pumping through your trans and not going anywhere is taking the load. I don't doubt people have had warped brakes, but it didn't happen as a result of this. Drag racers usually have a trans fluid temp gauge for this reason. Our trans fluid is cooled by the radiator in the Cobalt.
PS. Most drag race cars are AUTOMATICS!
Now as for the question and responses.
Brake torquing is the correct way to launch and auto. "Sunrise mj", I don't know what kind of car you are driving, but it's not a Cobalt. The 4T45E stock torque converter stalls at 2400 RPM. Try it. Put it in gear, lock the brake, floor the gas. Tach stops at 2400. I have a 3000 RPM stall converter, and the fuel cut off stops it at 2700.
I can't give you a good launch RPM anymore because my engine isn't stock. It will vary with engine torque. Basically, you want the highest RPM at which when you let go of the brake, the wheels don't spin.
This technique is hard on your TRANS FLUID, not your brakes. The brakes are stationary, and not producing any heat. The fluid pumping through your trans and not going anywhere is taking the load. I don't doubt people have had warped brakes, but it didn't happen as a result of this. Drag racers usually have a trans fluid temp gauge for this reason. Our trans fluid is cooled by the radiator in the Cobalt.
PS. Most drag race cars are AUTOMATICS!
04-24-2006, 05:27 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-23-06
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
they definitely would help you guys prolong the life of your trannys. the one that's built into your radiator is probably one pass or so, but a decent 4 to 6 pass cooler will help keep temps down a bunch. I would highly recommend it for anyone with an automatic that pushes it regularly.
04-24-2006, 06:34 PM
#40
I'm old school
Yes, a trans cooler would be a good idea for race built car. I haven't done any real looking yet, but the last time a thought about it there were only generic air coolers available. That's not a bad thing, I just didn't look into how I would mount it or where.
04-24-2006, 07:10 PM
#42
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Halfcent
Yes, a trans cooler would be a good idea for race built car. I haven't done any real looking yet, but the last time a thought about it there were only generic air coolers available. That's not a bad thing, I just didn't look into how I would mount it or where.
Would that affect the tranny at all in terms of pressure, or friction?
04-25-2006, 11:11 AM
#43
I'm old school
Originally Posted by Wyoming_Bass
or just get LINE LOCK...
Originally Posted by RedBaseBolt
Ok so I am also assuming that if I added a tranny cooler to my engine I would need more tranny fluid to compensate for the extra volume correct?
Would that affect the tranny at all in terms of pressure, or friction?
Would that affect the tranny at all in terms of pressure, or friction?
04-25-2006, 12:15 PM
#44
Member
Join Date: 03-10-06
Location: houma, Louisiana
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Halfcent
Brake torquing is the correct way to launch and auto. "Sunrise mj", I don't know what kind of car you are driving, but it's not a Cobalt. The 4T45E stock torque converter stalls at 2400 RPM. Try it. Put it in gear, lock the brake, floor the gas. Tach stops at 2400. I have a 3000 RPM stall converter, and the fuel cut off stops it at 2700.
04-26-2006, 11:22 AM
#48
Senior Member
Originally Posted by sunrise_mj
i mash the brakes to the floor, then rev to Xrpm... creeping means the brakes dont hold...
04-26-2006, 07:27 PM
#49
I'm old school
Then you are not holding the brakes, or your brakes are broke. A Cobalts brakes will hold the car still with full throttle in gear. I'm not trying to be a pain in the ass. I have a lot of experience with this car and its auto trans. You will not spin the wheels if you are holding the brake solid.
From the top...
Get the car to a place with open road in front in case it moves.
Have the car in drive.
Left foot hard on the brake.
Right foot full throttle.
Your tach WILL stop at approximately 2400 RPM and the car will not move.
IF your tach goes higher then 2400, your torque converter has failed, you are under warrenty, go get a new one.
IF the car starts moving before the converter stalls, your brakes have failed, you are under warrenty, go get new ones.
From the top...
Get the car to a place with open road in front in case it moves.
Have the car in drive.
Left foot hard on the brake.
Right foot full throttle.
Your tach WILL stop at approximately 2400 RPM and the car will not move.
IF your tach goes higher then 2400, your torque converter has failed, you are under warrenty, go get a new one.
IF the car starts moving before the converter stalls, your brakes have failed, you are under warrenty, go get new ones.
04-26-2006, 07:35 PM
#50
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Halfcent
Then you are not holding the brakes, or your brakes are broke. A Cobalts brakes will hold the car still with full throttle in gear. I'm not trying to be a pain in the ass. I have a lot of experience with this car and its auto trans. You will not spin the wheels if you are holding the brake solid.
From the top...
Get the car to a place with open road in front in case it moves.
Have the car in drive.
Left foot hard on the brake.
Right foot full throttle.
Your tach WILL stop at approximately 2400 RPM and the car will not move.
IF your tach goes higher then 2400, your torque converter has failed, you are under warrenty, go get a new one.
IF the car starts moving before the converter stalls, your brakes have failed, you are under warrenty, go get new ones.
From the top...
Get the car to a place with open road in front in case it moves.
Have the car in drive.
Left foot hard on the brake.
Right foot full throttle.
Your tach WILL stop at approximately 2400 RPM and the car will not move.
IF your tach goes higher then 2400, your torque converter has failed, you are under warrenty, go get a new one.
IF the car starts moving before the converter stalls, your brakes have failed, you are under warrenty, go get new ones.
nice.