HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

no one said it isnt possible. But that costs a LOT more money than a simple FI kit. This is why everyone suggested to go FI

Steven Flit

Socalecotec.com has a downloadable adobe format 2.2 250 hp build book by GM. It's basically the build book for supercharging the 2.2. If you have trouble finding the link, shoot me a PM. I'll get it for ya when im off work.

Contains a list of all the parts necessary, and their part numbers.

warrenb213

i've always been curious.....why do people engage their nitrous first gear? lol. it just seems to me like entering third gear would be the best time to let the juice loose.

2007victoryred

I couldnt find that build book link could you pm me the link?

mrsilent13

here you go

http://socalecotecs.com/postnuke/htm...download&sid=2

2007victoryred

Thank you sir!

Steven Flit

THANKS, at work... couldnt be bothered lol.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

and why would i want to do the same thing as everyone else
my goal has always been a high WHP NA 2.2l cobalt
i know it will take time and money...but all i got is time, and i can find the money

Greased

but the sucky part is if you decide to go the turbo route you have to throw out those cams, pistons, rods exhaust manifold, intake, tune,

pretty much everything you have done to the car

so yeah. sweet you will have the highest WHP n/a cobalt

but unless your designing an F1 engine there is no way in **** your getting above 250
and i doubt you can get 200 even

but dyno numbers can be manipulated so w/e

the real test is to see how you compare to a stock ss/sc

Sentry

Not trying to put down anyone who is NA, but what's the thrill in achieving a meager 200hp all motor? I mean, I think it's a cool boundary to break into, but it just seems like a lot of money for minimal results. I say 75 shot and bolt ons if you're not going to go FI.

warrenb213

in order to do a good turbo build you would build the internals as well. so really all-in-all, if you do things the CORRECT way, a NA cobalt will be cheaper than a properly built turbo'd cobalt.

chris88z24

Sell your car and buy a SS S/C...

Spanky's Monkey

iTrader: (6)

you guys still throwin that **** around?

i say do whatever the **** you want with your time, money and heartache.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

but whats the fun in just bolting on a turbo (like all the others do) and get alot of power? not putting anyone down or anything...just what ive always wanted after posts like
"just sell your car and buy an ss/sc"

i will dyno on the same dyno i always have and i will get a (as stock as i can ) ss/sc to dyno there too (already has done so).

I dont think it will be as hard as some say to break 200whp

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

this is completely untrue for all power levels over 200whp. 200whp, 225whp, 250whp, 275whp, and upward will be MUCH cheaper to achieve using a turbo than N/A. No way in hell you can make 200whp N/A for less than $3k (Nitrous not included for obvious reasons. I dont consider nitrous N/A)

StrongIslandBalter

if you do everything bolt on, cams, tb tune you should prob be 175 tops and then just put a lil 35 shot on so it doesnt harm your engine )

Sentry

The fun is having the power to totally obliterate LSJ's with plastic hubcaps. I'm not saying it wouldn't be cool, because it would totally be awesome to achieve that, but I don't want you to spend a lot of money and still have people in hondas blowing your doors off.

I mean, if you got the money, go for it. I like to get the most bang for my buck though.

Intake ~150 used
ZZP 2-in-1 midlength header/dp $299.99
2.5" catback ~400
11:1 pistons ~600
eagle rods ~350
supertech springs 369.99
stainless valves ~240
head gasket 100.00
head studs 100.00
rod bearings 110.00
cams 459.00

(we're up to 3,178.98 so far, shall I go on?)

Cost for shop to remove and replace, most shops will want over $1000. Let's just give a considerable rate of 12 hours at 65/hr. $780
Head port job, has to be port polish with full valve job done. ~400 for a cheap port.
A good tune, ~250 trifecta.

Total cost: 4358.98, before shipping costs/tax. Estimated hp: ~180.

xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

iTrader: (1)

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

Intake ~ 25$ new from a buddy who didnt need it
ZZP 2-in-1 midlength header/dp free from same buddy for helping install turbo
2.5" catback ~ already on the car...actually its 3"
11:1 pistons ~600
eagle rods ~350
supertech springs 369.99
stainless valves ~240
head gasket 100.00
head studs 100.00
rod bearings 110.00
cams -getting with tb and intake mani for a GREAT deal

so i have 1869.99 left to spend...(not including the intake mani, tb, and cams...cause im buying that anyways) and i plan on getting the ported and polished built head that one of the vendors on here sells for about $2000 (already put together) and i can resell the cams in that cause ill have nicer ones already.
i have a local perfomance shop that does stuff at 50$ an hour for me cause he wants to help me out....so, all in all. and remember...i am the test car for vince, i havent paid for any tuning thus far (dyno time is 70$/hr for dyno tuning).

so all in all, if i was to go s/c or t/c i would have to replace some of the internals to be safe anyways...say, 1000$ there plus 2000-2500 for turbo parts...so about 3500$
for what i want, at approx the same power, and having the added coolness of beating turbod and s/c cars with no sound of boost and getting the WTF look)...its def worth it.
if i wanted a forced induction cobalt i could buy one from a member on here that is selling (there usually is)...but i want to build my own

oh, and im not building this to be the fastest car out there...im building it to be a very nice, and powerful n/a 2.2...hopefully gain a lil respect for us "base balts" and have some fun at the same time

Sentry

Like I said, if you got the means to do it, by all means. Sounds like you got a lot of help and plentry of access to parts.

Helltime

I think its funny how everyone is always so worried about what they dyno. Its just a number thats different from dyno to dyno. If you want to test a car (and the just as important DRIVER) performance go to the track and see what you throw down time and trap speed wise. Just my 2 cents. To op, start with bolt on's and you'll see a nice improvement over stock.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

it 4 miles from my house

Helltime

Must be nice, the nearest 1/4 track is over 120miles away from me. That why i sold my cobalt to get a truck (so i could pull my stang over there and if it breaks not worry about finding a way home). I miss my balt

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

all internals are fine up to 250bhp, as per GM's ratings...which are always on the conservative side. Thats about 210whp...which is more than you will likely see with your N/A build. Dont get me wrong, I would love to see a beastly NA 2.2 or NA 2.4, but trying to argue its just as cheap as going boosted is completely pointless. You're build, even with your estimated lower costs due to hookups and such runs you $3,500 to make less power than i did with my $1,500 FI build. Regardless, good luck with your build, and if i may, i would recomend getting some balance shaft deletes while you're at it. They'll allow you to rev higher, faster, and free up a few more HP from drivetrain losses. They would be awesome for an NA build. I planned on getting them myself back wheni wanted to stay NA

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

ill have to look into that, thanks! ill update the build thread i have as i go along