PyroMechanic

iTrader: (1)

First off, I do not have a Cobalt, sorry.. Haha but I do have an 05 Sunfire, supercharged, like many of you, with the M62. Jbody and I are having a hard time trying to figure out what my problem is, the car is slow, like as slow as if it wasnt blown. Reason I say this, and yes I dont have a heat exchanger installed, although I have a s3 zzp one laying in my room, is the first time I drove it, it ripped through 2nd gear. I mean, I can have no traction in 2nd gear, but now, haha.. I have traction even in 1st. No codes, and nothing is wrong, just low power. I read about 4-6 psi of boost on a stock pulley, and it has been a steady 75 degrees or so in Ohio. Any ideas? I can give more info on whatever is asked.

For a note: I did not have the correct gas in for about a little more than a half tank (90 or so octane) and got the correct 93 octane and I saw decrease in power from that day. Although, I had a problem of having multiple major misfires in cylinder 3, but that was because I didnt plug the nipple onto of the intake manifold (to the FPR).

jdn902

have you checked to make sure your catylatic convertor isn't clogged?

PyroMechanic

iTrader: (1)

I have not recieved bad readings or faulty oxygen sensor readings from the ecu, so no.

To mention, I changed by-pass valves, checked all vacuum lines, reinstalled the intake manifold for any leaks and it kept bringing me back to the same thing, so Im leaning more towards fuel or air restrictions.

I read that major misfires can ruin a cat converter, which I was worried when I recieved so many, but disregarded that thought because of no codes.

BankerBalt

turn your timing down. your car is probably seeing too much kr and putting itself into a temporary limp mode without any codes. mine did this when we swapped injectors and pounded on it. as soon as i let off, i went into limp mode with no codes

PyroMechanic

iTrader: (1)

Ive read about limp mode with Cobalt's, but I dont know if it may be with jbody's.. Fyi, I can not adjust tuning, I have the GM reflash for our 2.2 Ecotec's. I dont even have a wideband AFR yet. I wish I did..

BankerBalt

... you need a REAL tune. not a can tune. and you NEED wideband. you're probably hurting your car pretty bad right now.

PyroMechanic

iTrader: (1)

Please.. this is no place for harassing. This is a tune, it may not be the best tune, but it will have to do for now, Im sure GM made it go light on the L61. And yes I know I need a wideband, but I just spent $2000 for the blower parts, its like saving for college with a wideband as well.

BankerBalt

this isn't harassing, it's telling you how it is and trying to make sure you don't blow your car up. just because GM gives you a tune doesn't mean it's going to work. every car is different depending on supporting mods and motor wear. gm sucks with their tuning, that's why there are other tuner programs out there for self tunes. what did you pay for that tune? and i understand you just spent a lot of money, but this is something you do NOT want to go cheap on. for all you know, your afr's are running lean under boost and just blowing up with KR

Blowncavy

iTrader: (2)

Its not his tune. Gm flash isnt the best but its safe

BankerBalt

keeping in mind a stock car that has 10000 miles and a car that has 100000 miles is going to act differently

IonNinja

4-6psi is definitely not right so I would start there as your possible culprit. Check for gasket leaks on the intake side or at the injectors. You said you already replaced the bypass valve so that should be good. Not likely on stock pulley but you could have belt slip as well.

PyroMechanic

iTrader: (1)

Wow I only recieve one email about one of the replies, but not the other 4 of them.. Haha.. Well anyways, my car has 65k and the blower and intake has 85k on it. I know.. 4 psi seems low to me too.. but I reinstalled the intake manifold over again and I get the same exact boost. I even checked the orings on the injectors and injector cups, they look great. I am so confused on this.. The first time I drove the car, it was blazing, but after those few misfires, man the car acted as if it wasnt boosted. Now since I practically replaced and redid the entire intake and blower, Im thinking about the exhaust. I actually began to think.. isnt it logical for something to be ruined in the exhaust, because of these major misfires? Just curious, I scanned my ecu again this morning and I got an advanced FSC DTC of "system too rich in bank 1" I read the numbers of the o2 sensor while the car was on, and it said bank 1 was at about .85.. and about every 5 numbers, it fell to about .2, where bank 2 o2 sensor read a constant .05 or so. Can my o2 sensor on my header be bad? Melted from the misfires? Sorry for the essay, haha

BankerBalt

Sensor is probably fine. What spark plugs are you using? Have you rented a scope to look into your combustion chamber to see if pistons have cracked? 5lbs of boost seems like it would be right on a stock pulley on an l61. Checked your timing chain? Checked your head components? It seems to me like it could be a lack of compression or something of that nature. Or a horrible tune as I explained before

PyroMechanic

iTrader: (1)

Hmm I noticed you have a blown l61, 5lbs is what you had when you had a stock pulley? I disconnected the o2 sensor on the header and nothing changed, just threw 2 codes or so.. So Im assuming the exhaust is fine as well now. I was using iridium plugs, 2 steps colder, but I already changed them with stock replacement platinum ones and also no difference. And I have yet to do that.. Ive never done a compression test, and im wondering if it is compression as well.. thatd be such a pain. How would I reset the ECU? I have already unplugged the negative for 30 minutes and it didnt reset..

PyroMechanic

iTrader: (1)

I am running SeaFoam through the gas now, as well. When I open my hood, I actually noticed there is a loud hiss from the driver side of the engine. It seems to be coming from the FPR. I disconnected the vacuum line from the FPR, and the engine didnt respond at all. Took it for a drive, and there was no difference.

BankerBalt

purge valve doesn't really do anything other than for emissions. i never ran a stock pulley but i'm running about 11 pounds of boost on a stage 2 pulley. compression test is easy, just go to a local parts store and rent one, they'll show you how to do it. i still say it's your tune

PyroMechanic

iTrader: (1)

No, I was talking about the fuel pressure regulator, not the evap solenoid.. and I thought I could have rented one, I tried a few days ago, but Advanced Auto would only let me buy one.

BankerBalt

what size injectors did it come with?

PyroMechanic

iTrader: (1)

The ones required for the L61 to run on the reflash.. The 36lb injectors. Remember I havent changed anything to my setup the first time I ran it.

BankerBalt

i understand that but power is made because of 3 things... air, fuel, spark. if you're not getting enough fuel in, that means your spark is blowing out or your not burning enough fuel with the spark to make the explosion and rack power. if your filter is clogged or you have a bad map or maf, those 3 things are not going to be able to compensate each other. the throttle body you have is a cable, correct? did you get the gm flash for cobalt l61 or cavi/sunfire l61?

PyroMechanic

iTrader: (1)

I know but I havent changed or done anything different with the car for the MAP or MAF or fuel filter or anything to malfunction.. There were misfires and everything died.. The same day I got the proper octane gas though. And yes, my TB is cable actuated and my reflash was for a Cavalier, although a Sunfire and Cavalier are the same. That hasnt changed, I always had the same program.

BankerBalt

if i were you, i would spend the extra money to get a REAL tune and a wideband before you blow your car up. and also hook up your heat exchanger because your IAT's are probably through the roof. i'm going to assume you're gonna blow the car if you don't

PyroMechanic

iTrader: (1)

I read the sensors' readings and O2 sensor reads high fuel, which is alright just not that great for the cat.. And my IAT's are actually decent. I have steady 160's, and its beginning to get colder here in ohio. Id rather fix my issues that add mods just for more power when something else is wrong.

BankerBalt

Getting a tune is not necessarily a power adder. It makes your car more efficient in your whole range of power and monitoring everything and would probably figure out your issue. If you don't want to take my advice, be my guest to do so. It's very hard to diagnose an issue when I'm not driving/hearing/feeling your car, tuner would be able to do all that. For all I know, your car could be fine and maybe you were just expecting more power than it actually puts out

IonNinja

got any buddies you can swap blowers with as a quick test?

if you don't have any leaks the only other things that could affect boost levels are the bypass valve, belt slip or the blower itself