brandon2.2

Hey guys,

when I first joined this forum I learned a lot of stuff and talked about this build I want to do. I have gotten a full parts list and have begun accumulating parts.

I havn't modded much at all because I am planning on a whole build so I havn't worried about CAI's or anything.

I have just recently ordered a used SS/SC speedo cluster off ebay. I got a DC sports strut bar and TTR rear sway bar from TTR to take advantage of that free shipping.

I am doing suspension, brakes, drivetrain and an engine build. I have an M62 and the intake manifold and a lot of other misc. parts. I am going to modify the S/C and intake mani. I'll be rebuilding the M62 with ceramic bearings, porting, silencer holes plugged, and a coupler from ZZP. I'll use the common cooling mods like dual pass and will not b using the stock H/E, I'll be using a ZZP, CX racing h/e or something. And I'll use a 2.8 pulley

I plan on keeping about 10.1:1 compression. I am going to follow the GM build book somewhat but I am doing a few things different to make more power, like modding the blower, neutral balance shaft, slightly smaller pulley, ported head and so on. I have an extensive parts list.

SO I am pretty sure I can get over 300hp. My brother has a new G8 GT and we are going to race with my stock cobalt to get a before, and when I'm done we will race again to see if I can get him. One thing that inspired this build was that my cobalt is paid off, and after a military move when I had my car weighed it weighed 2660 with a 1/4 tank. I have since then removed 50+ pounds. My Cobalt is a 2006 2.2L SUPER base 0 options and I love it.

I will be updating with before pics and hopefully I can really dive into this in my spare time.

Preston

G8 GT is a mid to high 13 second car.


your definatly capable of hitting that.

brandon2.2

thanks for you encouragement, and I know I can, that's what's going to be fun! We are going to FT. De soto, its a nice really big park/beach with a lot of roads to race where there is little to no traffic. And I am actually going to bring my Dad's 07 ZO6 and my brother doesnt know it, I CANT WAIT TO SEE HIS FACE!!!

I'll bring my cobalt another time LOL

IonNinja

what are you going to be reving to in this build? one thing you might want to keep in mind is that in the high rpms you could possibly overspin the blower depending on how high you take it. I'm assuming you're shooting for power until around 8K since you're getting rid of the balance shafts

brandon2.2

nope, setting the rev limiter to 7k, the blower grind from Comp cams makes power til 7k I think, I was already thinking about that, with high revs and a small pulley I might break ****, but yea, just 7K

Sentry

What about internals? You going forged on those rods?

Don't forget axles if you can find 'em.

brandon2.2

yea, forged pistons and rods, (10.1:1 wiseco)

driveshaft shop makes axles now for the F23, but I'm not paying $800 until the stock ones break lol

I would like to use this thread to talk and ask about my build instead of making a bunch of silly threads for no reason

I'm wandering about my crank, I know it will take the power, but it has 50K miles, should I use new main bearings??

I think I am going to go with the LSJ oil pan, not too expensive and holds more oil,
AND I'm debating on what heat exchanger to buy. I'll talk to the LSJ guys about that - nvm, they have a sticky, think I'll go with the ZZP H/E

Maven

iTrader: (1)

You must have gotten the Super Secret Super Special Super Lighweight Race version of the Cobalt.








I have NEVER seen or heard of a stock Cobalt that weighed less than about 2850, regardless of how much fuel was in it.

brandon2.2

well then have you ever heard of there being variations in scales?

I'm not lying about what the paper said, I have a 2.2 super base no options, could there be a 200lb difference in scales used to weigh cars, sure, and it was a cat scale that holds 18-wheelers all the time everyday

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Yes of courcse Ive heard of variations, that was kind of my point even though I didnt say it, obviously the Balt doesnt weigh under 2700lbs, so the scale was clearly off, and by about 10% which is A LOT.

brandon2.2

ok good call, I am not as familiar with avg weights of these cars, given my model I was believing that weight....but here's a fun fact

the ZO6 I talked about before....weighs more than the balt, but only because of the engine and drivetrain, chasis to chasis, the corvettes weighs less

XM15

Thats the good kind of weight.

Good luck with the build.

CobaltTSX

Well if you're tearing the motor down anyway and as cheap as they are I would without even thinking twice. New is better!!

IonNinja

you wont need neutral balance shafts if you're taking it to 7K just so you know

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Well not quite but its close.....your looking at about 3200 for a Z06 and its got about a 450lb engine, an 80 lb trans and a 60+lb differential.

A balt is just over 2900, has a 305-350lb engine, and a 100lb transaxle.

Now a Solstice on the other hand, IS lighter than a Balt, if you take out the engine, trans and diff like our comparison above, a Solstice weighs a solid 50-100 lbs less than a Cobalt

brandon2.2

cool maven, I was a fan of the solstice and almost bought one, But since I have this balt, its paid off, I thought hell it will cost less $$ to make this thing gitty up all together (including price of car)

as for the neutral balance shafts, I know they are for higher revs, but they (stock one) are also slightly parasitic "from what I understand" they provided opposite forces from the crank or something (mildly) to make the engine feel smoother

I want to get rid of it, I like the car vibrating anyway lol

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

my cobalt weights les than a solstice
base models are about 2750lbs no extra weight from sunroofs, power door actuators, power window motors, etc.

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Yeah balance shafts put a load on the water pump chain, and their only purpose is to make engine FEEL smoother.

brandon2.2

right, which is why I want it gone, I want my engine to be as efficient as possible, well within my build budget and everything, which is why i am going with higher compression and lower boost rather than lower compression and higher boost, and I'm working with the M62 anyway, not like I'm going to make oogles amount of good boost with thing, but it will work well with my build

alanoo

Be warned, 10:1 Wisecos are NA pistons, and absolutely not meant to get boosted. These are light pistons, focused on hi RPM applications.

You'll have to custom order some 10:1 for boosted application, different from the ones most of the shops advertise on their websites

brandon2.2

really? good to know man thanks.

they are forged, what about them exactly makes them bad for boost applications??

I think they would have to be good for at least 350hp....at least

sure boost is different than NA, but you're just forcing air in, as far as the forces acting on a piston, I dont think 300hp NA is really different than 300hp FI

I may be wrong, what would fail on them?

CobaltLs_14

Good luck man i'm right there with u...

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

i think the above poster may be misinformed. (post count helps me guess this...lol)
just get em ceramic coated and your good

ilovecars

iTrader: (4)

hey once your done your build i need to come and drive your car.

brandon2.2

I am open to that, I am a big fan of hanging out and burning rubber....just ask my brother