My Dyno
08-29-2007, 11:07 PM
#26
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Catless will accually hurt the tourqe curve a lil, (how much no one knows) but I'm going back to the dyno with a new part in 2 weeks
a expectable range of 146 to 152 should be, too many factors to say yes it will be X exactly.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/2...77000761d5.htm
That vid was without the SS/SC (self honed) manifold, and BRAND NEW SS/SC down pipe.
SO it will be
GMPP Intake Tube
2.4 Intake Manifold
Part X
SS/SC Manifold
SS/SC Down Pipe
GMPP Sport Catback.
What i'm hopeing for is the return of the torque (solid line from 3000 to 5000RPMS) and +3 to +4 WHP
a expectable range of 146 to 152 should be, too many factors to say yes it will be X exactly.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/2...77000761d5.htm
That vid was without the SS/SC (self honed) manifold, and BRAND NEW SS/SC down pipe.
SO it will be
GMPP Intake Tube
2.4 Intake Manifold
Part X
SS/SC Manifold
SS/SC Down Pipe
GMPP Sport Catback.
What i'm hopeing for is the return of the torque (solid line from 3000 to 5000RPMS) and +3 to +4 WHP
True. I removed my cat and lost some mid range power but around 5300 rpms it feels like a little hit of nitrous when it really starts to pull. It just picks up all of the sudden.
Im still interested in seeing how my current setup reacts to the 2.4 mani. It could even things out or it could make it worse.
08-29-2007, 11:12 PM
#27
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If you look on that last post i jsut edited with the pics you can see the air fuel leaning out wiht more air form the manifold.
Getting somethign like the GMPP, K&N, AEM, some kind of higher flow intake tube just helps all the more. Theres plenty of fuel and not enough air.
And what im finding out is the 07's cause of the change in computer, map, coils, exhaust, ect, its seeming much more adaptable to change. So there are the results on an 07 and things are only going to get better.
Also I think you need a reflash from the dealer, you're shutting down at 6100,instead of out to 6400
Getting somethign like the GMPP, K&N, AEM, some kind of higher flow intake tube just helps all the more. Theres plenty of fuel and not enough air.
And what im finding out is the 07's cause of the change in computer, map, coils, exhaust, ect, its seeming much more adaptable to change. So there are the results on an 07 and things are only going to get better.
Also I think you need a reflash from the dealer, you're shutting down at 6100,instead of out to 6400
08-29-2007, 11:20 PM
#29
seriously tho, check out that 18:1 AFR, cause that is hurting your motor pretty bad if those numbers are correct
08-29-2007, 11:22 PM
#31
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didnt anyone else notice this? 18 AFR at 2kRPM? somethings wrong with your narrowband buddy...or maybe its their AFR meter....but you should run about 15-15.6 AFR at idle and cruising speed. at WOT, 11:1 AFR is normal...12:1 is also pretty good for the n/a guys...hell, n/a motors go all the way to 13.5:1 and are fine...but we run a pretty high compression for a stock car, and or ignition is probaby pretty well advanced, so i'd say a 12:1 ratio is fine...
seriously tho, check out that 18:1 AFR, cause that is hurting your motor pretty bad if those numbers are correct
seriously tho, check out that 18:1 AFR, cause that is hurting your motor pretty bad if those numbers are correct
08-29-2007, 11:23 PM
#32
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Thats at throttle tip in, and if its like the dyno I used its an exhaust tip sniffer. I hear ya, but I think theres a pretty large margin of error down there.
Besides nothing you can do about it, either the cars is running right or throwing a code.
08-30-2007, 03:44 PM
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i am jealous of you guys. the local dyno place here, speedtek, tells me that they cant dyno cobalts unlerss it is an ss, because there is no way to hook up the tach.
08-30-2007, 03:50 PM
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08-30-2007, 09:45 PM
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well idk he might of found a way on mine since it was a 07, but cobaltfan06 didnt have the same coil system i had so they couldnt do his. i looked at the graph and it shows rpms but i dont know how he did it. BTW if you have a pacesetter exhaust bring a extra strap because it wont let you use the hook right in that area
08-31-2007, 01:29 AM
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Slightly off topic, are automatic dyno's less accurate than manual? I know more power is lost through the transmission with the auto, but will the dyno still give an accurate reading of wheel hp/tq?
08-31-2007, 07:43 AM
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BTW, Nice numbers there OP! My car dynoed like 123whp N/A. So dont be disapointed with those numbers. Put some stage 1 cams on there and you could see over 150+whp. Great honda killer =P
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