Need advice on easy AC disabling
#1
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Need advice on easy AC disabling
Hey guys, I was curious if anyone knew if pulling the fuses for the A/C Clutch and relay for the compressor would cause any detrimental effects on anything? For the sake of back-story, I modded my front grill in which I took out the inner plastic rails to make it open...
I live in the "concrete capitol" of Texas, and having rock/sand/concrete on the highways being thrown by other cars is quite common. I shouldn't have modded the grill, but live and learn, and I've been given the "told you so" by my wife enough already
A rock came through the grill and punctured a spine on the condenser, so I purchased a new one, dryer, hoses, and will be getting to work this weekend on getting it fixed up. In the interim, I know pulling moisture into the AC system will cause corrosion of everything including the compressor, so to save me some money and hurt in the long run I'd like to ensure the compressor doesn't kick on when I need to blow some air through the defrost, or have it run while idle.
If pulling the fuse/relay isn't recommended, I can JB Weld the current condenser for a make-shift seal for the time being, just wanted to be sure so I wouldn't get hit with a $400 compressor in order to fix it up.
Thanks!
I live in the "concrete capitol" of Texas, and having rock/sand/concrete on the highways being thrown by other cars is quite common. I shouldn't have modded the grill, but live and learn, and I've been given the "told you so" by my wife enough already
A rock came through the grill and punctured a spine on the condenser, so I purchased a new one, dryer, hoses, and will be getting to work this weekend on getting it fixed up. In the interim, I know pulling moisture into the AC system will cause corrosion of everything including the compressor, so to save me some money and hurt in the long run I'd like to ensure the compressor doesn't kick on when I need to blow some air through the defrost, or have it run while idle.
If pulling the fuse/relay isn't recommended, I can JB Weld the current condenser for a make-shift seal for the time being, just wanted to be sure so I wouldn't get hit with a $400 compressor in order to fix it up.
Thanks!
#2
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It won't turn on, if the refrigerant is gone there is a low pressure switch that won't allow the compressor to turn on. If there's a hole big enough to find then the system is empty by now.
#3
^^^^^
I would still recommend sealing up the compressor to keep unwanted debris from getting inside it
I would prob use tape instead of jb weld tho
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Thanks for the response guys!
I actually did notice the compressor not kicking on at all, however before I realized there was a leak and I filled up the system with Freon, I got it up to about 25lbs and the compressor still didn't kick on. I found the leak after I shut the car off in an attempt to check fuses without causing any harm, and not only did I hear the freon gushing out of the front of the condenser, it looked like I was shooting NOS out the front grill as well.
The old condenser is going in the trash, and I'll be letting it sit overnight before turning the car on, so I think it'll be ok. If not, I'll let you guys know, so you won't make the same mistake
I actually did notice the compressor not kicking on at all, however before I realized there was a leak and I filled up the system with Freon, I got it up to about 25lbs and the compressor still didn't kick on. I found the leak after I shut the car off in an attempt to check fuses without causing any harm, and not only did I hear the freon gushing out of the front of the condenser, it looked like I was shooting NOS out the front grill as well.
The old condenser is going in the trash, and I'll be letting it sit overnight before turning the car on, so I think it'll be ok. If not, I'll let you guys know, so you won't make the same mistake
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Well I finally got off my lazy butt this weekend and decided to fix the Cobalt. It took all of 30min of actual work, while letting the evacuation pump run for about an hour, and she was up and running again. After putting in some PAG Oil and two cans of freon, she's blowing colder than ever.
Just a warning to those who may not know, but I discovered there is no separate drier for the condenser, it's all one single part, and it can't be purchased separately. I thought I was losing my mind when I couldn't find a part number and O Reilly's employee's couldn't find one either. The $68 condenser from Rock Auto includes the drier, even though it isn't specified on the inclusion list.
I bought a TIF Leak Detector as well, and there's no leaks around any of the gaskets or hoses, so it looks like I lucked out with everything working as it should and no further problems.
Just a warning to those who may not know, but I discovered there is no separate drier for the condenser, it's all one single part, and it can't be purchased separately. I thought I was losing my mind when I couldn't find a part number and O Reilly's employee's couldn't find one either. The $68 condenser from Rock Auto includes the drier, even though it isn't specified on the inclusion list.
I bought a TIF Leak Detector as well, and there's no leaks around any of the gaskets or hoses, so it looks like I lucked out with everything working as it should and no further problems.
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It was 12oz's a can, so a pound and 8 ounces. I think there's a couple of ounces left in the can, so I estimate about 20 ounces put into the system and the compressor started cycling properly.
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Usually it'll stop filling as the system has reached full capacity. oh well, to OP, when you hear a loud pop and hiss, and your A/C stops working, you'll know why, but that's only if your really unlucky
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Due to my inability to gauge the remaining freon in the second can, I can't say how much is in it, and is why I said it was assumption. I brought the low side up to 35psi with the second (needed) can, which is what the Haynes manual said, and it's working perfect.
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