new rotors
#1
new rotors
well long stroy shot after a few hard pulls with the dynotune 75 wet kit i'm seriously concerned with breaking. the stock setup is trash under heavy loads and i'm looking at the baer or ebc rotors from turbotech.
with is better drilled or slotted? and if you approve of drilled/slotted whats better the thru drill or dimpled.?
with is better drilled or slotted? and if you approve of drilled/slotted whats better the thru drill or dimpled.?
#3
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well long stroy shot after a few hard pulls with the dynotune 75 wet kit i'm seriously concerned with breaking. the stock setup is trash under heavy loads and i'm looking at the baer or ebc rotors from turbotech.
with is better drilled or slotted? and if you approve of drilled/slotted whats better the thru drill or dimpled.?
with is better drilled or slotted? and if you approve of drilled/slotted whats better the thru drill or dimpled.?
The best way to increase braking performance is to increase the surface area of the rotor and the pad. Basically buying bigger rotors. There's also different pads out there that are made softer so they kind of squish against the rotor. Hawk pads come to mind.
Since your average monster brake upgrade is going to cost you about 1k, I'd seriously consider how important it is to you considering your major power adder is only on when you command it.
#5
I'm old school
I am using the AC Delco drilled and slotted OEM replacement rotors sold by Tom at Crate Engine Depot. These rotors have done two specific things for me. First, it has so far solved the warping issues related to the stock rotors completely. Second, zero brake fade. In fact, once a specific constant pressure is applied to my brake, the braking force actually increases as the car slows, causing me to slightly reduce peddle force as the car decelerates.
#10
If the rotors are drilled and slotted won't the brakes lose surface area? The more material you remove during drilling and slotting the less brake area you will have and the hotter the remaining area will get. I'm sure the slots and holes will help cool it down but they will be trying to shed even more heat than stock...my stockers have been great so far, I might get some nicer looking undrilled rotors and pads soon but I don't really need them yet. The stock ones have handled mountain road beatings downhill with no problems, to each his own though.
#11
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I've personally seen plenty of cases where the drilled/slotted rotors have cracked/broke. Mostly on cars doing autocross. Most professional road course teams will change their rotors after every race just for that reason. The drilling/slotting weakens the rotor and usually if it warps at all then it's toast under heavy braking.
halfcent: have you tried to have your rotors turned yet? It's almost impossible unless the rotor is perfectly straight. The tips from the brake lathe tend to break off from getting stuck in the holes and slots. So most shops won't turn them.
halfcent: have you tried to have your rotors turned yet? It's almost impossible unless the rotor is perfectly straight. The tips from the brake lathe tend to break off from getting stuck in the holes and slots. So most shops won't turn them.
#12
Senior Member
If you're going to be doing hard, continuous breaking as you would see at an auto-x or on a road course or even if you tend to have a heavy foot on the breaks during normal daily driving, don't even consider drilled rotors. They will ultimately crack. I've seen it time and time again with them. Experienced drivers will not even use them on a road course because they don't last more than 10-15 minutes. Daily driving my dad's seen 2 sets crack within 10k miles.
If you really want extra cooling, go with slotted only. My personal preference is to use plain old OEM-style steel blanks. That's what I use for daily driving, auto-x, and road racing and I've NEVER had heat issues OR seen any brake fade.
If you really want to improve overall performance, your two best options are 1) stainless steel brake lines and 2) a more aggressive pad like EBC Reds or Hawk HPS.
If you really want extra cooling, go with slotted only. My personal preference is to use plain old OEM-style steel blanks. That's what I use for daily driving, auto-x, and road racing and I've NEVER had heat issues OR seen any brake fade.
If you really want to improve overall performance, your two best options are 1) stainless steel brake lines and 2) a more aggressive pad like EBC Reds or Hawk HPS.
#15
Senior Member
has anyone used the GM slotted cross drilled rotors? if so how are they becuase im looking into getting them since my uncle can get them for me at 20% off and no tax since hes got his mechanics discount
i hate those moaning noises
i hate those moaning noises
Last edited by Coblt ss super; 09-23-2007 at 05:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#17
Drilled discs are "fine" IF the holes have been cast in at manufacture.. iirc only high end brakes have this (brembro, AP etc)
In the UK we favour Mintex M1144 compond for enthusiastic road use, Pagid RS14's for very ahrd raod use and track. I'm also trying Performance Friction Braking pads on stock discs.. they seem to work very very well too.
In the UK we favour Mintex M1144 compond for enthusiastic road use, Pagid RS14's for very ahrd raod use and track. I'm also trying Performance Friction Braking pads on stock discs.. they seem to work very very well too.
#18
Senior Member
Drilled discs are "fine" IF the holes have been cast in at manufacture.. iirc only high end brakes have this (brembro, AP etc)
In the UK we favour Mintex M1144 compond for enthusiastic road use, Pagid RS14's for very ahrd raod use and track. I'm also trying Performance Friction Braking pads on stock discs.. they seem to work very very well too.
In the UK we favour Mintex M1144 compond for enthusiastic road use, Pagid RS14's for very ahrd raod use and track. I'm also trying Performance Friction Braking pads on stock discs.. they seem to work very very well too.
#19
i'm gonna stick with blank discs and a better brake compound. whats better for stopping, and i do mean the occassional hard stop, semi metallic or ceramic. i had ceramic on my van and i'm not happy with em, replacing those with some semi-metallics today.
#20
The rotors are made of steel so yes they will rust unless you get stainless ones or something (does anyone even make SST rotors?). The rotors you see in the magazines are probably that pretty gold color. All that color is is the gold zinc plating and will come off within the first couple times you hit the brakes. The noise can be reduced by changing pads, high performance pads tend to squeal during light braking whereas the ones Toyota puts on their minivans are probably always quiet.
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