Nitrous is in hehe
08-10-2007, 07:12 PM
#26
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since i followed the GM build guide according to the book im good to go on a 150hp shot if i want. I may be crazy for using nitrous but im not that stupid. I'm going to stick with what works and so far everyone around me that has nitrous on their LS uses 50hp dry and a few with 75hp dry and they have not had any problems over the last year and a half and they have stock motors. I'm pretty sure i have nothing to worry about as long as the components are not faulty, that will be a different story, lol.
I understand that your engine is now capable of handling some serious power.
My only concern is that I personally DO NOT think the maf will correctly compensate for a 50 or 75 shot. Even if it some how reads more air coming in and starts to dump more fuel, who's to say it will give you the right amount of fuel. i/e too much or too little.
these 2.2's are ******* touchy.
08-10-2007, 08:44 PM
#27
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I understand that your engine is now capable of handling some serious power.
My only concern is that I personally DO NOT think the maf will correctly compensate for a 50 or 75 shot. Even if it some how reads more air coming in and starts to dump more fuel, who's to say it will give you the right amount of fuel. i/e too much or too little.
these 2.2's are ******* touchy.
My only concern is that I personally DO NOT think the maf will correctly compensate for a 50 or 75 shot. Even if it some how reads more air coming in and starts to dump more fuel, who's to say it will give you the right amount of fuel. i/e too much or too little.
these 2.2's are ******* touchy.
08-10-2007, 09:14 PM
#28
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im not saying it makes it read more air coming in. our MAF is a combo sensor, it has an IAT sensor = Intake Air Temp, it makes it think the air is colder so the computer dumps more fuel to the engine, its ok to be rich, but not ok to be lean in your tune, rich is just wasting fuel
08-11-2007, 09:41 AM
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you can also still detonate under extremely rich conditions as seen from the guy with the m62 swap
his motor was running insanely rich as well and now its a junker
you don't know if the maf is going to be able to pick up the extra air or if the stock injectors can provide the amount of fuel being requested
his motor was running insanely rich as well and now its a junker
you don't know if the maf is going to be able to pick up the extra air or if the stock injectors can provide the amount of fuel being requested
08-11-2007, 09:44 AM
#31
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lol, its not extra air, it drops the AIR TEMPERATURE. the colder the air the more fuel gets dumped to the engine, or as much as the computer can handle anyway.
08-11-2007, 09:57 AM
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sorry but no...this is not an ebay resistor that you are putting in your car.
your MAF is not going to be able to make the adjustments for the new amount of air you are pushing through the motor nor are your stock injectors able to provide enough fuel for your setup. I'm not seeing whats so hard to believe about that...
you aren't going to listen until you end up just like yellowshowbalt...but hey its your car.
your MAF is not going to be able to make the adjustments for the new amount of air you are pushing through the motor nor are your stock injectors able to provide enough fuel for your setup. I'm not seeing whats so hard to believe about that...
you aren't going to listen until you end up just like yellowshowbalt...but hey its your car.
08-11-2007, 10:08 AM
#33
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what ever, i will go with what i know works and has proven to work for the last year and a half onmy buddies balt, no problems for him at all. stop being a whimp about MAYBE breaking something. So what if it does, ill just fix it and do it again
08-11-2007, 12:11 PM
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thats what I said until I blew my engine, had NO car for 6 weeks, and ended up dropping around $2000 to get it fixed. Trust me when I say that money could have gone somewhere more productive.
And do you know how cold n2o is? I wouldnt be surprised if it was to freeze your maf.
Were just trying to help man. Read on any nitrous forum, ask anybody who knows jack about n2o and I guarantee everyone will warn against a dry shot without tuning. Thats just how it works.
But if you want to be stubborn then
08-11-2007, 10:21 PM
#35
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i have asked, my buddy who has had i on his car running 75hp shot dry for over a year and a half and he has had no issues. thats all the proof i need, and since he has drag racing pit crew back ground ill go with his advice.
08-12-2007, 06:22 AM
#38
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to each their own, ill do my thing, you all will do your thing. I've already dumped 6k into my engine, dont matter to me if ill have to dump another 2k to fix a melted piston
08-12-2007, 10:52 AM
#39
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Thats just an ignorrant way of lookimg at things.
If you've already dumped 6k into the engine whos to say you wont have to spend another 6k getting it back to where your at now?
The only reason mine only cost 2k to fix is cuz I just bought an engine at a junkyard and had the whole thing swapped out. If you fry all your new engine work your not going to find another engine laying around with all the goodies already installed.
Id like to see a video or something of your (buddy's) dry shot cobalt. It sounds to me like you read about the 2 stage setup on the dynotune website, got all excited, bought it, installed it, didnt do any reasearch on it except for what you read on their site, and now after getting flamed you explain how you have 2 buddy's with the same setup running fine. Sounds like a scapegoat to me.
08-12-2007, 02:29 PM
#41
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the nitrous wont puddle if you ahve the injectors far enough away from the TB. I may change out to a CAI so i can put them farther away from the TB. give it more distance to travel and atomize
08-12-2007, 02:42 PM
#42
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well it sounds like u know whats up with your whole system. Thats good at least, and if it works it works, and if it doesn't well just some more money into the car.
08-12-2007, 03:04 PM
#43
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im just following the GM build guide, well almost to a T. the only difference im not using a 150hp shot system and i dont have a turbo yet
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