NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

what are normal readings for our car?

yellowltcoupe22

somethin around 60-65 psi at wot after the car has warmed up then around 25-30ish at idle and in the 40-50ish range when cruisin

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

so it will be higher before it warms up?

and does this change depending on mods? or always the same?

yellowltcoupe22

yea it'll be high before it warms up cuz it takes more pressure to push the thicker oil. its not gonna change much from what i posted no matter what you do.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

kk, thanks

and you said you shipped off the water temp adapter? i have the wires all ran and the sensor zip tied out of the way fornow lol....didnt want to have to do electrical again

scott allen

should be about 10 psi for every 1000 rpms. so at 5000 rpms it should be 50 psi.

yellowltcoupe22

lol yea man it shipped out today. should be there by the weekend i think.

Red07SSNA

Factory specs: 50 psi minimum at 1000 RPM.

My engine block presure is ~ 25 psi at idle, 70 PSI just about the rest of the RPM range WOT or driving normal.

If you get readings off the cylinder head the oil pressure is about half of what the engine block reads due to a restrictor.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...pressure+gauge

huckernage

where do we drill a hole in a block

Red07SSNA

You do not drill a hole in the block!!!! There are oil galley plugs that you can remove for sending unit adapters...look in the thread I linked above^^^.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

ill take some pics tomorrow of my install (if i can remember lol)

ok, so i just took it for a drive and it sits at about 40psi at idle, 70-80 while cruising and actually spiked up to 100 when wot....

could it be that when readings are taken from the head they are twice as much not half as much???

Red07SSNA

Check your ground. If you are using an electric gauge most likely you do not have a good circuit. When I first installed my sending unit in my cylinder head I had the same readings (100 PSI while driving). I was actually worried that my sending unit would come apart with constant 100 PSI pressure. I got to checking and found that my sending unit's ground had resistance, so I repositioned the ground wire on the cylinder head -- my pressure dropped so low that I thought my engine oil pressure was too low -- that's when I found the oil pressure to the cylinder head was restricted.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

ill do that, im also going to switch the location of the sender this weekend to the back of the block...

So i drove to work this morngin and it looks like its calmed down a little bit. it idles at about 50 (but i idle close to 1000rpm) and cruises at 70-80 only spiking at high rpm wot...
could it be that my ground is just not quite good enough? could i have too much oil causing too much pressure?

Red07SSNA

If your ground wire is easy to get to and you have a piece of wire laying around try having someone hold the extra piece of wire to the ground wire and directly on your sending unit and see what reading you get.

High oil pressure is a RARE possibility but at this time I'd bet money on the circuit being the culprit.

Also, where did you get your power from? If it is not constant battery voltage (12+ volts) that can cause your problem too.

blackbolt89

i might want to do this. i have a crack in my oil pan. lol. see exactly how much pressure is pissing out of the crack.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

slow shift sells them for like 49$ shipped and then the adapter is 13$ shipped from summit

so if the gauge 12v constant isnt good it can read like this??? cause according to their troubleshooting thats why i cant change the colors on it either...so that may be the culprit cause the ground is grounded same place as my fog lights i installed lol

XgunsmokeX

iTrader: (1)

hmmmm

hugemurph4

are those oil plugs under the intake mani...and isnt that where u put oil lines if you turbo? i need to know this

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

the ones for the block yes, the ones on the head are on the side


question, if i pull one of the oil galley plugs on the block, oil is going to come pouring out yes?

Red07SSNA

A small amount will come out.
It also depends on how long it has been since the engine last ran. I pulled my original oil sending unit out after the car sat for a couple of days and very little oil came out. When I repositioned my sending unit shortly after running the engine I needed a pan under the engine.

b_faulk75

My car runs 70- 80 psi until it warms up then stays around 55-60 when warm, goes up with engine rpms like it should, i think you are ok....

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

HMM...that sounds promising.
do you ever see 100ish psi when wot at higher rpm????

i may chase the 12v constant anyway cause it isnt letting me change the colors and that is usually the cause

b_faulk75

I sometimes run 90 plus sometimes when cold, i think thats why my turbo seals are going out already, lol...

pacific cobalt

I've got my oil pressure and oil temp. sending units in the cyl. head. It is restricted but that's ok as long as I can monitor any changes and pull over quickly if ever there's a sudden drop.

Cold Start (Idle) 65 to 70 psi
Cold engine during accel. 70 to 100 psi
Warm Cruising 35 to 40 psi
Warm Idle 17 to 19 psi

fljohnboy

I have my electric gauge hooked into 1 of the 3 head ports and when ice cold it runs at 75psi but as soon as it's warm it read real low like about 10 at idle and 15 at 50mph. I wanted to put the sender where the factory sender is but I can't see how to get to it without a major pain. Car is a LS 2.2