rockstarbass1

I was going to put this in my last thread but it was asking about peoples rod bearing preferences are. I bought a chiltons manual and have read it but go figure the question I have isn't answered there and there very vague... I need to replace the rod bearings, can I do so with the motor inside? Also is it a must I remove the girdle? The front covers on the motor bolt to it. And it holds the crankshaft in and I don't need that falling out. If someone can shed some light on the easiest way to change these out with the motor in the car please tell. This is really starting to stress me out. That and being told the rod bolts are one time use strech bolts was a nice supprise, seeing the dealer wants over 5 bucks for EACH bolt smh

MP81

iTrader: (2)

I think the ecotec build book actually shows how to do this in a decent amount of detail. It's definitely do-able, just not fun.

Around page 19 of the build book.

http://gmtunersource.com/racertech/ecotec-build-book

You'll have to remove the oil pan and cylinder head, but the bedplate (or girdle, as you referred to it as) can remain in place.

conerboner

iTrader: (4)

what he said^ I would also go with arp head studs as you can re use them. You will also need to replace your head gasket before you put it back on. the stock one is fine.

rockstarbass1

See I was trying to avoid removing the head as I have no clue how to time our motor and I don't want to loose timing. Im assuming you guys are talking about actually pulling the piston and rod out. I just wanted to work through the bottom and do one at a time and turn the crankshaft by hand to lower each rod/piston to bottom dead center and chage each then.

conerboner

iTrader: (4)

That will work. You'll have to take off the oil pan still and it will be a little harder to get the bearings in that way but I think it should be doable.

rockstarbass1

I have the oil pan off, then started to take the bedplate off and then read and realized thoes are strech bolts like the head bolts and are a one time use type deal... and I really don't wanna spend 6 bucks a bolt with there being 16 bolts. That gets expensive really fast.. but there oil covered and idunno how well blue locktite will work on em

conerboner

iTrader: (4)

yeah there is like 24 total bolts down there that are tty it sucks lol.

rockstarbass1

What happens if you reuse them? Iv asked some people and they just say don't risk it, others said they will eventually come loose. And others have told me they have on motors before they just make sure they torque em correct and a tad of locktite and its been fine for years

conerboner

iTrader: (4)

I replaced all of mine just for piece of mind. On your car it's your call.

Zzcamaro00

any bolt that TTY you need to replace it on reassembly. i dont see how you going to replace a rod bearing without removing the piston. how are you gonna seat the rod bearing in the rod correctly? you can definitly do it with the engine girdle on. doin the timin is easy. they made it dummie proof

Leafydialupking

iTrader: (1)

The bolt actually deforms when you torque to yield. This is what keeps it in the hole since it slightly changes the thread pitch and locks the bolt in. Replace them and I would see about buying aftermarket ones, even cheap MR gasket ones should be ok since you're not boosted.

1AJeremyD

iTrader: (1)

I would say not changing any stretch to yield bolts especially on rod bolts is not a good idea. I don't know of anyone that reuses bolts that doesn't have a problem later on. Nothing like watching someones head rise off the block after reusing stretch to yield head bolts. If you are going through all this trouble, might as well do the job right the first time than do it twice.

zrated89

iTrader: (15)

we reuse them at the shop all the time. I dont on my car though