Red's K04 Turbo Build
#176
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Join Date: 03-06-11
Location: philipsburg, PA
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yeahh.....hahaha. about that.. just take your tame make sure everything is right. do a mock up of everything. and to save you time tear the crap off the back a the firewall offf. and idk if youll need to beat the hell outta it like i did lol
#177
I tore that black mat off during my first atempt at a turbo project like 3 years ago (all ebay stuff) I should not need to do anything to the firewall im told it will fit without problems as long as I have the corect parts. I also have a backup in case the drilling part goes horibly wrong
#179
so hit a little snag the coupler that came with my Dejon intake was a rats nest of tape and crap so I threw it out, I remember thinking wtf was this guy thinking when he put this on... now I know, the pipe end that conects to the turbo inlet is a weard size its not 2.5: thats too small and 2.75" is too big I think its like 2.63" or some weard **** so its time for a trip to the pluming section of home deput
#181
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
so hit a little snag the coupler that came with my Dejon intake was a rats nest of tape and crap so I threw it out, I remember thinking wtf was this guy thinking when he put this on... now I know, the pipe end that conects to the turbo inlet is a weard size its not 2.5: thats too small and 2.75" is too big I think its like 2.63" or some weard **** so its time for a trip to the pluming section of home deput
#184
Rubber is actually ok for vacuum but you don’t want to use it for things that will see boost since it’s just the intake it’s not guna hurt anything
Any who here is an update decided to paint the charge pipes and intake a metallic silver, the paint is supposed to be for rims and is seaming to hold up well it looks really nice in person
hed here is all the stuff I got yesterday
Any who here is an update decided to paint the charge pipes and intake a metallic silver, the paint is supposed to be for rims and is seaming to hold up well it looks really nice in person
hed here is all the stuff I got yesterday
#191
yeah I payed extra for mine so...
the breather just screws in place of the oil cap to vent non combustion chamber pressure my crank case will also be vented along with the breather on the valve cover both the valve cover nipple and the crank caase vent will go to a catch can with a little breather on it so there will be not vacuume or boost anyware its not suposed to be
the breather just screws in place of the oil cap to vent non combustion chamber pressure my crank case will also be vented along with the breather on the valve cover both the valve cover nipple and the crank caase vent will go to a catch can with a little breather on it so there will be not vacuume or boost anyware its not suposed to be
Last edited by Axelthered05; 05-02-2012 at 12:40 AM.
#197
Senior Member
couldnt you drill and tap the stock one? I was looking into doing it if i ever went return style which may happen here soon. I have like 3 extra fuel rails.
#198
you guys dont understand the kit is designed to be plug and play with the LSJ fuel rail, sure I could modify it to work with my stock fuel rail but then there is the hassle of potential leaks and a hole bunch of other crap plus it would look like crap so I will be using an LSJ fuel rail I already baught one from a member on here plus the pre cut and asembled AN lines that come with the kit would not reach to the far left side of the fuel rail ware it would be most benoficial, remember the LSJ fuel rail feed in at the far left side and the supplied fitting in the kit replaces the screw in dampener on the far right side so you have flow from one side to the other while the stock fuel rail feed from the right it would be just too much of a mess to do it other wise and i would prob spend more money making it work than the LSJ fuel rail cost me considering I got it for 40 shipped
Last edited by Axelthered05; 05-03-2012 at 09:21 AM.
#199
Senior Member
I understand that. I was just asking. I didnt think about the lsj rail feeding from the front of the engine to the back. Once you said that the light bulb went on lol.
#200
im thinking im going to have to go back and redo the entire fuel setup since the fuel pressure gage reads 70 psi constantly and since our cars generaly run at around 42-43 psi im thinking the sensor is not geting grounded properly or there is air in the sub line going to the sensor I have also noticed that the oil pressure gauge is wacky now so im thinking of just rewireing them both and since im doing return style now and the fuel pressure regulator has 2 ports for fuel pressure gauges im thinking of moving the sensor to that location whare there wont be any air for the sensor to misread and I will also have the mechanical one that comes with the regulator to compare to. after reading up on return style fuel systems for our cars I decided to order a Aeromotive high-flow one-way check valve for the main fuel line so that fuel stays in the line when I shut the car off, that way I dont have to deal with waiting for the system to pressureize every time I go to start the car. Ive read that people have had this problem and fixed it this way