2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

Running the 2.2 at high RPM?

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Old 07-27-2007, 10:20 PM
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Running the 2.2 at high RPM?

Since the dyno numbers are out for the manifold upgrade. The peak hp was at 6300rpm. That is near redline for the 2.2 ecotec. What should be done so the engine can run that high and not have anything breakdown?
Old 07-27-2007, 11:12 PM
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I believe the valve train is good to 7000rpms. So I don't think there would be any problems at all.
Old 07-27-2007, 11:14 PM
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ive upgraded my valve train and my lower end except for the crank, if i can ever get tuning for my automatic ill be good to 8k rpms. the valve train i have in is rated to 9k rpms but the crank is only good for 8k rpms
Old 07-28-2007, 01:45 AM
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damn i wonder what the coby would sound like at 8k???
Old 07-28-2007, 01:56 AM
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Increase air flow characteristics.

The higher you rev, the more intake strokes that are occuring, so now velocity gets greater and you can intake a larger mass of air. So items like larger throttle bodies, larger exhaust systems, ported cylinder heads will take full advantage.

But

The first adventure you have to face is actually being capable of having a higher rev limiter. To overcome it, you'd have either have a PCM programmer to change it or take over control of the fuel injectors because the computer uses the injector signal to control the rev limiter.

Physically, you'd need to have stiffer valve springs so you don't have valve float occuring.

The most important part to remember is that revving high won't do anything for you power wise if you are not able to actually create power...you need more air at higher revolutions because you're (like said) having more intake strokes occuring. The more air you can ingest, the more fuel you can spray. At RPM levels of 8k, it's more about mass than velocity.

But of course by doing all of this, you're talking about shifting the powerband upwards, so you're taking the good with the bad.

Tuning is very important and I would suggest larger injectors because your duty cycle will rise because of the increased amount of times you are spraying your fuel injectors.

If HP Tuners for the 07+ 2.2s is anything like the J-bodies, you won't have a lot of control over your ignition timing over your stock limiter, so you might have to think about a actual ignition change if possible or other means.
Old 07-28-2007, 03:32 AM
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i wonder how shimming the stock valve springs would do on this motor. I don't know much about the ecotec's, but it could be a simple way to decrease the chance of valve float with a higher than stock rev limiter (if you get passed the tuning issues, and it is not a huge amount higher than stock). You don't want to work too much on top end though. Any of the high power honda guys that rev to 10k will tell you they aren't looking for power up top anymore, they wanna fill in the gap and get linear power delivery across the board from the second they shift until redline. Work on making the most power you can with what you have before you try to just make it spin faster. The more you increase flow on both ends, the more power you will make at any given rpm. Work on that for now, then (maybe once there are better tuning solutions) work on increasing your redline and actually extending the powerband from where it is now, not moving it up. Then maybe you could think about cams or something, but for now i would suggest just increasing mid-range power. I'd take +30whp at 5,000 rpm's over +15whp at 7,000 rpm's any day. Don't concentrate on peak numbers, you will just always end up dissapointed. work on your existing powerband, then when you can't reasonably do anymore, work on extending it. just my $.02
Old 07-28-2007, 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by cakeeater
i wonder how shimming the stock valve springs would do on this motor. I don't know much about the ecotec's, but it could be a simple way to decrease the chance of valve float with a higher than stock rev limiter (if you get passed the tuning issues, and it is not a huge amount higher than stock).
eh...

I'd just get new springs.
Old 07-28-2007, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
eh...

I'd just get new springs.
but if ya do it yourself you could save a few bucks! eh i dono...guess im kinda old school...even though im 17. driving mustangs kinda does that to ya. LOL
Old 07-28-2007, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by cakeeater
but if ya do it yourself you could save a few bucks! eh i dono...guess im kinda old school...even though im 17. driving mustangs kinda does that to ya. LOL
Save Money < Get Quality Parts
Old 07-28-2007, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
Save Money < Get Quality Parts
shimmed stock springs, if done right are fine. but i agree with this statement.
Old 07-28-2007, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by cakeeater
shimmed stock springs, if done right are fine. but i agree with this statement.
Not trying to sound rude, sorry if it sounded that way. That's the type of person I am, if I can get a quality part, I'd rather go that route for insurance.
Old 07-28-2007, 09:52 AM
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Quality parts > save money and have it brake eventually

thats why i went a head and got the ferrea duel valve springs with the ferrea valves so i wont have to worry about valve float. my engine is ready to go, just tuning is the issue. I just want my rev limiter addjusted to 7500rpms if it was possible
Old 07-28-2007, 12:33 PM
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what can the stock crank rev to?
Old 07-28-2007, 02:57 PM
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the stock crank has been proven good to rev to 8000 rpms acording to the GM race teams.
Old 07-28-2007, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by xCobalt05x
Quality parts > save money and have it brake eventually

thats why i went a head and got the ferrea duel valve springs with the ferrea valves so i wont have to worry about valve float. my engine is ready to go, just tuning is the issue. I just want my rev limiter addjusted to 7500rpms if it was possible
Damn!! I think 7K would be plenty on the 2.2L! It has more displacement, so you can make torque easier than the 2.0, so you don't need to rev the **** outta it.

BTW, has anyone bored the block or stroked it yet? I know that its an aluminum block, so it would be a little more difficult, and you would need new sleaves. But I am curious, cause that would be the best way to gain power. A stroker 2.7L in a cobalt... That would be sick!!
Old 07-28-2007, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Archie
Damn!! I think 7K would be plenty on the 2.2L! It has more displacement, so you can make torque easier than the 2.0, so you don't need to rev the **** outta it.

BTW, has anyone bored the block or stroked it yet? I know that its an aluminum block, so it would be a little more difficult, and you would need new sleaves. But I am curious, cause that would be the best way to gain power. A stroker 2.7L in a cobalt... That would be sick!!
A bore wouldn't make that much displacement change. Do the math with a .060 overbore and it's not even that significant displacement wise.
Old 07-28-2007, 10:29 PM
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may not NEED to rev that hight but since my engine is capable of doing so, i will do it, hehehe
Old 07-28-2007, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
A bore wouldn't make that much displacement change. Do the math with a .060 overbore and it's not even that significant displacement wise.
BTW, has anyone bored the block or stroked it yet?
Reading > U
Old 07-28-2007, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Archie
Reading > U
I saw where you said stroked but I wanted to comment on the boring statement...

Adam - 1
You - 0
Old 07-28-2007, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by NJHK
I saw where you said stroked but I wanted to comment on the boring statement...

Adam - 1
You - 0

Nice pun.

Old 07-28-2007, 10:47 PM
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No problem :P
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