Shaking at mid-high speed
10-12-2008, 09:47 PM
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Shaking at mid-high speed
Im posting this in the tech thread since I dont know if this is a braking prob or not.
Recently I got new tires, rotors, pads and shoes. After everything was installed the car drove smooth until I hopped on the interstate. When braking from 55+mph, the steering wheel shakes as if the rotors were warped. Tires were balanced, so I thought the rotors were warpped from factory. Advance got me replacements and I took them to a brake shop, and they said they werent warped. So i installed them, then hopped on the interstate again and same bs and it shakes bad.
Anyone got any idea what it could be, im taking the car to the dealer tomorrow since it has 500 miles left b4 warranty is done. Tires and brakes are good. Everything is smooth sailing when driving in the city.
Thanks for any advice
Recently I got new tires, rotors, pads and shoes. After everything was installed the car drove smooth until I hopped on the interstate. When braking from 55+mph, the steering wheel shakes as if the rotors were warped. Tires were balanced, so I thought the rotors were warpped from factory. Advance got me replacements and I took them to a brake shop, and they said they werent warped. So i installed them, then hopped on the interstate again and same bs and it shakes bad.
Anyone got any idea what it could be, im taking the car to the dealer tomorrow since it has 500 miles left b4 warranty is done. Tires and brakes are good. Everything is smooth sailing when driving in the city.
Thanks for any advice
10-12-2008, 10:38 PM
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haha
when you installed them did you get them seated on the hub correctly?? cause they have a little play
best idea is to have someone stand on the break pedal once you get the caliper and rotor on then put on the tire while they do that and tighten her down...that way it centers the way it will when you break hard...
good Q...my advise only stands under these conditions...
if not then something is wrong...WAY srong
when you installed them did you get them seated on the hub correctly?? cause they have a little play
best idea is to have someone stand on the break pedal once you get the caliper and rotor on then put on the tire while they do that and tighten her down...that way it centers the way it will when you break hard...
if not then something is wrong...WAY srong
Last edited by NWAE Cobalt; 10-12-2008 at 10:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
10-12-2008, 10:45 PM
#8
Basics....did you torque the wheel lug nuts to 100 lb ft in the proper pattern? If you are not properly torquing the lug nuts that can cause the problem you are describing. When you take the rotors off and have them checked they are fine but then you install the wheel and "wrench" the lug nuts down that will warp them....just my .02
10-12-2008, 10:53 PM
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maybe your **** was aligned bad. my gf's dad works at a body shop, fixed a car with front end damage n then sent it out for alignment (when b4 it was fine, sent out to make sure) got the car back n steering wheel was cocked to the side n **** wasnt aligned n it shook til he took it back n got it fixed... maybe a possibility in your case but idk
10-12-2008, 10:53 PM
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Yes, it's only under braking.
I cleaned the hub real good, no rust or anything. I also put the speed clips back on.
I tightened the nuts in the right sequence, how much is 100 lb ft. I used the bar that comes with the jack and tightened the lugs with downward body force.
I cleaned the hub real good, no rust or anything. I also put the speed clips back on.
I tightened the nuts in the right sequence, how much is 100 lb ft. I used the bar that comes with the jack and tightened the lugs with downward body force.
10-12-2008, 11:01 PM
#13
Yes, it's only under braking.
I cleaned the hub real good, no rust or anything. I also put the speed clips back on.
I tightened the nuts in the right sequence, how much is 100 lb ft. I used the bar that comes with the jack and tightened the lugs with downward body force.
I cleaned the hub real good, no rust or anything. I also put the speed clips back on.
I tightened the nuts in the right sequence, how much is 100 lb ft. I used the bar that comes with the jack and tightened the lugs with downward body force.
10-12-2008, 11:06 PM
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for me (a large guy...i wiegh about 270)...its a "2 grunt" job...go till you push so hard you grunt once...then again...then its good 
just make sure you are ballancing it on the center and not just prying down...that can creat alot of sheer force and break things...
just make sure you are ballancing it on the center and not just prying down...that can creat alot of sheer force and break things...
10-12-2008, 11:13 PM
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Im 270 also, and do what you just said. Im just gonna buy an air compressor and impact gun. Will prob make things easlier in the future. Esp. since Im gonna change the struts shocks and springs myself.
Last edited by VRCobalt; 10-12-2008 at 11:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
10-12-2008, 11:15 PM
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its supposed to be 100lbs
be VERY carefull not to crossthread and shear things off!!!!
those guns can pack a HUGE punch of power in them...they can shear the stud off before you know it
they are GREAT for taking things off...beware when tightening down...i use an impact to get it threaded then i use a torque to tighten...overtightening can be BAD
those guns can pack a HUGE punch of power in them...they can shear the stud off before you know it
they are GREAT for taking things off...beware when tightening down...i use an impact to get it threaded then i use a torque to tighten...overtightening can be BAD
Last edited by NWAE Cobalt; 10-12-2008 at 11:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
10-12-2008, 11:22 PM
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I just installed my winters and torqued each in sequence to 100ft/lbs! 
If you do not torque properly it can cause the rotors to warp slightly.
For The Win!
If you do not torque properly it can cause the rotors to warp slightly.
For The Win!
Last edited by Red2.4SS; 10-12-2008 at 11:22 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
10-12-2008, 11:26 PM
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I like my rims. But may not reinstall the 18's again? not sure...
Keeping the turbo though!
And BTW get a torque wrench before doing any more car projects!
That can cause the wheel lugs to come loose!
Differences in torque between lugs cause warping and without a torque wrench they are most likely not the same.
Last edited by Red2.4SS; 10-12-2008 at 11:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
10-12-2008, 11:27 PM
#24
Without torquing the wheels properly you can affect the shape of the rotor -- it's more about uniformity.
Not stupid at all -- I still don't know what QFT stands for...anybody?
Not stupid at all -- I still don't know what QFT stands for...anybody?
Last edited by Red07SSNA; 10-12-2008 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
10-12-2008, 11:28 PM
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