Red07SSNA

I was thinking it meant: "quit F$%^#g Talking. Thanks!

o3nisoaso3

lol qft ftw i didnt know what they meant when i first joined.

i forgot bout the lugs. i had that problem from import export and had lugs snap. they paid for fix so it was all good :-)

VRCobalt

I forgot that I bought a torque wrench a while ago, never had to use it. its a craftman. Matter of fact I never used it. where its labeled foot-pounds, the highest # is 75. Is that the most its capable of torquing? Im a bit confused on using this

Never mind, just figured it out.

Red07SSNA

Yes that 75# is the highest you can use it too to torque. Use it to torque up to 75#...if you still can turn the lug nuts you will know they are not torqued to specs.

Red2.4SS

I dont know. But if that is the highest it goes then it wont work for the lugs. You will want one that goes to at least 100#.

Wheel lugs have about the highest torque requirement of any bolt on the car.

dsp86

if ur getting a pulsation when applying they brakes and high speeds to me sounds like a deff front brake problem since u say the steering wheel shakes that for sure tells u that the problem is in the front. i know u said u cleaned the hubs off good and put new rotors and still have this problem. if ur front end is tight i would have the front rotors machined w/ a on-car lathe that way the rotor will be true to the hub and if that dont fix it i dont know what to tell u. i deal w/ problems like this every day.

Red07SSNA

This quote is a winner....not even the engine has bolts torqued to 100 lb ft! Highest is the harmonic balancer bolt at 74 lb ft + 125 degrees.

VRCobalt

I'll be making a trip to sears tomorrow. There goes 100 bucks. But its worth it. BTW, what size socket is needed for the lugs, might as well grab that socket to if I dont have it

dsp86

19MM

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

i believe its a 19??? but i could be wrong...check lol

Red07SSNA

Can you go to an Autozone in the morning and rent a torque wrench, torque the lug nuts and check for the shake...could save you money until you need to purchase a torque wrench

Sentry

Don't feel bad at all that you don't know what some of these acronyms mean.

You should be proud that you're not a hopeless World of Warcraft addict.

By the way, my car does this as well. Anytime from like 70-30 when I brake even lightly I get his shaking and my steering wheel vibrates like mad. It sounds horrible, but I guess I just got used to it by now. I always blamed the rotors.

VRCobalt

Im not worried about the cash. I gonna need it anyways for next weekend. for the suspension. Off to the dealer I go.

VRCobalt

Well I got the car back from the dealer and they told me the tires need to be rebalanced. They took the tires off when looking at the brake system (which btw they said were fine). I assume they torqued it down to 100 lb ft.

I thought tires needed to be rebalanced when they are shaking while driving at high speeds?

Red07SSNA

Glad you got it fixed....you said the shaking occured when applying the brakes at high speed...did you not?

VRCobalt

Sure did. Though I went down the highway today at about 100 and the car didnt shake at all, cruising or braking.

Maybe the rebalance thing was an excuse to try and charge me $40.

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Do you know how tight 74lbft +125degrees is???? Its pretty f*ckin tight Its well over 100lbft for sure.

Quite a few bolts on the car get close to or past the equivalent of 100lbft. You definately need at least a 100lbft torque wrench if you work on your car a lot.

Camashaft sprocket bolts, crankshaft damper bolt, control arm bolts, steering knuckle bolts, and a few others.

Quickest way to tighten wheels is with an air compressor, an impact wrench and a torque stick.

VRCobalt

That would, but then I wouldnt anything to use my muscles on

Plus, i wouldnt be doing internal repairs on my car, mainly suspension, and anything that isnt internal. Except prob a valve cover gasket, but thats a few yrs down the road. If I still have this car by then

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Muscles are overrated, its easier to get skinny arms into places on a Cobalt than a big muskully arm.

Red07SSNA

Yea, yea! I think it's silly to state a torque as XXlb ft + Xdegrees. I'd bet if you tightened 10 equal bolts that way they would all finish out with the same final torque spec. So what is the purpose of the final degree? Serious engine builders measure the length of the final tightened bolt....

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Exactly.

Torque+angle is actually more precise than torque only. Its actually used to make sure that more people can get the proper tension(stretch) on the bolt more of the time.

Torque only is inaccurate because things like thread condition, corrosion, thread coatings, torque wrench error, improperly used torque wrenchs etc, all throw off the final tension on the bolt.

If you take 5 bolts, 1 perfect, 1 lubed, 1 loctited, 1 dirty, and 1 rusty, and you tightened them all to 50lbft, they will all have a different tension on them...The lubed bolt will be tightest, the rusty one loosest, etc....

Now if you take those same bolts and tighten them all to say 15lbft + 100degrees, they will all still be different, but they will be much closer to each other, the lubed one wont be as tight because the friction the lube reduces is nowhere near as great at 15kbs as it is at 50, and the rusty one probably will be obviously loose at 15lbs so youre more likely to take a second look at and clean it off.....

In blind applications where stretch cant be measured tq+angle is the preferred method. If you look through a service manual youll find that most important fasteners that get torqued beyond about 15-20lbft are now using a tq+angle spec.

Nussle

start your car and move you stearing wheel back and forth, do you hear a sound at all when doing this? like something is loose...

Red07SSNA

Still be easier if they stated: Clean and properly lubed bolts torque to XX ft lbs. Unkown condition bolts torque to XX ft lbs + XX degrees. Me personaly -- would never assemble a DIRTY engine -- I'm **** about cleanliness when working on any engines

BTW we're way off topic on this thread...

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

That would make noise going ar ound a turn(away from the bad wheelbearing.
Also Known as Tennermen Nuts. They were used at the plant to hold the brake drum/rotor on durring assembly. No need to keep them, if anything they could throw things off if they are used.
I was gonna mention tq sticks...