yellowshowbalt

so i have every thing working again and was wondering if any one had some base maps to start with on the smt6 witch is the same as a smt 7 i need some maps to start with if any one has them. it doesent matter if it NA or turbo i just need some starting points to work with.

exiged

i dont have an smt6 or 7 but may soon and would like to see this as well
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yellowshowbalt

ok does any ss guys have any good base map theyare willing to share with me to start

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NJHK

Isn't the SMT-6 just like any other piggyback where it changes voltage from stock settings?

yellowshowbalt

yes it does i just dont now where to start with it.

NJHK

Piggybacks are simple. Just raise the voltage, get more fuel. Lower the voltage, get less fuel. No matter what, if you mess up, go back to "0" setting and that's stock.

Doc

this is for the LSJ....not sure if it will help you out.

bc3tech

sw4y uploaded one to the ionforums repos at http://ionforumsrepos.bc3tech.net

Sw4y1313

How are you running the smt6. Are you going to use o2 feedback or run an extra injector? If your using o2 feedback, you have to enable lambda tuning in the global settings and tune via the Analog map.

====Explaination of how to setup lambda tuning=======
Purpose
Why would you want to tune closed loop lambda? Due to the ongoing emission problems, the demand for manufacturers to run permanent closed loop is increasing. What this means is that when you select settings for the engine, for example: tuning fuel, the lambda sensor will recognise these changes and correct them back to what they were previously.
Using the SMT6, you can now tune lambda. This means you would run the lambda signal through the SMT6. When you make a change, the ECU looks at the lambda and changes itself to your new settings. The standard ECU still sees lambda as correct but in actual fact the fuel settings have changed.

Un-linear Modifications
An un-linear modification is best for larger lambda modifications.

Using the SMT6 Windows tuning software, select “Global Settings” from the main Menu bar. Then select the tab “System Config”. The following parameters apply to LAMBDA:
Lambda input : “On” = To select lambda input as source
Lambda un-linear : “On” = To select un-linear process for modification

NOTE: YOU WANT TO USE UN-LINEAR MODIFICATION because you are going to be doing a lot of close loop tuning. I think our car runs in closed loop up until 85% throttle. Dont quote me on that tho...

=======HOW TO tune closed loop========
Here are the notes for closed loop lambda tuning. Will help you out a lot. Basically every value of 20 will give you a 1.0 drop in AFR. a value of 20 will give you aprox 13.7 AFR.

Note
1) The map is blended in with the engine temperature. At low temperatures the map is OFF (zero), and from 78 degree C the map is fully effective.
2) A positive number means that the engine runs LEAN, and that the SMT6 adds lambda to bring the ECU lambda input back to 14.7.
3) A negative map value means the engine runs RICH, and the SMT6 reduces the lambda reading to conform to the closed loop value of 14.7 AFR.
4) Each count in the map presents approx. 0.05 AFR. The map value of -15 at full throttle lets the engine run at 13.95 AFR (14.7 - 15x0.05 = 13.95)
5) The ANALOG ZERO value in the global map is active, and can be used to OFFSET the complete map.

yellowshowbalt

if any one can help me out im still looking for a good base map for my sc 2.2 im having no luck and the local speed shop is not familer with my setup and wants 75 hr with at least 3-4 hr mininum just to start. the price is fine but all they know is basic tunning . and there is no garenty that they wont blow it up on the dyno. i cant take that chance with them. too many ifs.

if any one would share there ss maps with me,or any ions. or any sc cavaliers. that would be great. at least i would have a starting point.

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Novajoe

well you would have to find someone with pretty much the same setup you have. what size injectors are you running? You have the stage 2 pulley on right?

If you can't find someone with at least a similar setup then using their maps isn't going to do you any good.

yellowshowbalt

yes it will all i need is a 4 banger thats sc and its running a stage 2 witch is about every one - well half of us. and all i need is the timing maps and any thing else. i doent mater if its a aem fic or megasquirt, or smt 6 or any thing else for that matter it just a starting point

Sw4y1313

The problem your going to run into is the values from one tuning solution to the other are completely different. You need to have something similar. The problem with using my map is that its setup for a turbo first off, secondly it only adds fuel using a 5th injector.

Now you have not told us how you plan on using the smt-7. Are you going to be running secondary injectors or are you trying to tune using the ANALOG aka o2 sensor map. There are only 3 maps on the smt-6/7. Analog, Ignition, and Injector maps. The analog map controls the o2 signal, the Ignition map controls timing, and the Injector map controls any additional injectors you have hooked to the unit. How do you plan on tuning, specially when you have 4 different then stock injectors in your car right now. Your stock ecm cant even control those properly, how do you think the smt is going to?

yellowshowbalt

Now you have not told us how you plan on using the smt-7. Are you going to be running secondary injectors or are you trying to tune using the ANALOG aka o2 sensor map. There are only 3 maps on the smt-6/7. Analog, Ignition, and Injector maps. The analog map controls the o2 signal, the Ignition map controls timing, and the Injector map controls any additional injectors you have hooked to the unit. How do you plan on tuning, specially when you have 4 different then stock injectors in your car right now. Your stock ecm cant even control those properly, how do you think the smt is going to?[/QUOTE]

i plan on useing the smt-7 so that it controls timing.analog "map" and the o2 with out the 5th injector i think i can allso use the 5th injector with the stock ones and have it dump in to the cai. and is thats not enough then run 2 linked together and turn them down when needing only a little bit of fuel then crank it up when the boost get higher. just a idea.

Novajoe

just make a datalog run of your current a/f ratios for a start. Then go back and add or remove fuel in the areas that need it to keep it at a good level(I'd stick with around 11.5 for now). Just use the values sway gave you(+adds fuel, -takes it away). How much boost are you running? At 10psi I'd say retard it about 4-5 degrees and go from there.

If you can't understand that then I'd just take it to be tuned by a professional. No offense... just saying...

yellowshowbalt

i never said i was a tuning expert. when i plug the smt7 up and the car is running i cant even get it out of the driveway it panics and the car quits. this is why i need the base to start with a na tune to start then modify it when the boost comes into play

ps the local speed shops want to use my computer,software and paperwork and are still unformilier with the programing. and still charge my 75hr and said they are not responsitble if they blow it up and will be useing the dyno. i like the dyno but right know i can beat on it and if they get it wrong and it gos lean then good buy motor.

Novajoe

then you have something hooked up wrong. If you hook the smt up properly and don't touch any of the settings then the car shouldn't run any differently than before you hooked it up. It more or less just makes changes based off the stock settings. It's not like you have to program a new map from scratch.

As far as the shop not being familiar with the programming... that's just the way it goes sometimes. Either you can find a shop that knows the software you're working with or you can get software that the shop is working with. Or you can try and figure it out yourself and also probably blow your motor... No offense but you didn't seem to have any problem doing it before.

yellowshowbalt

... No offense but you didn't seem to have any problem doing it before.[/QUOTE]

that is true but now im try to keep it alive. and work on some higher boost and better runing im all most sure that this engine can take 16-18psi with a solid tune and make about 325-350 on stoc internals.

gm blew up 5 motors when duing the build book test. all on nitrous. and nitrous is very harsh and exteme temps. so if you cut down the temps and the force of the explosion you can make more power with less heat. and force the engine can take and make more power.... well thats what i think. could be right could be wrong i will know soon.

Novajoe

If you try to make that much power on stock internals you WILL lose your motor. Actually nitrous is a much safer way to make hp than a supercharger BECAUSE it keeps iats down. There's nothing harsher about the way nitrous combusts than boost. It's all just adding air and fuel. The fact that nitrous gains are instant is a factor(an instant jump 75hp takes it's own tolls) but that factor alone isn't going to let you make another 75-100hp doing it differently.

The fact that GM(the company that designed this motor) couldn't pull more than 250hp on 5 separate motors should tell you something. If I were you I would work on making what you have run safe and reliable before you start shooting for the moon. "the great wall of china didn't get built in a day".

I mean... you don't want to take your car to get tuned at the shop because of the small chance that you could lose your motor... but you're willing to do all of this? It just doesn't make sense. You should definately take into account what people here are trying to tell you. We're not blowing smoke up your ass. Some of us have actually dealt with these things before and we're trying to hook you up with some knowledge so you don't continue to go through an expensive learning process.

Don't take any of this the wrong way. I'm not trying to bash what you're doing, just trying to give you some constructive critisizm.

yellowshowbalt

i think i may have confused you all. 1st is make it runn great with tunning then its take the boost up slowly and get recorded dynos to show what the 2.2 can take. then its pop. bang its over for the engine then the built engine goes in and it starts at 20 psi. but we wont be blowing this one theres too much money in that motor.

Novajoe

Usually when you do it right... there is no popping or banging. You just have to realize the limits of the motor. There has already been alot of money invested by people way more qualified for the job... so there's no real reason for you to test something that's already been proven. It'd be like taking a trip to new york, scaling the empire state building, and dropping a baseball off the top and saying "Isa gunna call it gravity!!"... when you could have just as easily read a book about it.

Like I said get what you have running properly, then from there get it dynoed and see if you're near that magical 250 mark. When you get close to that you know you're going to have to make some changes in the motor to make it stronger. Sure you might even be able to get a whopping 20 more hp on stock internals... but who cares? The fact is if a motor blows at 250hp or even 270hp, any smart person is going to make the appropriate changes way before that because... they don't want to blow up their motor. Better safe than sorry.

HackAbuse

I see your block puking up rods in your future...

No offense, just a prediction.

Good luck though man

yellowshowbalt

i still need a base tune to work from. my friend will be duing the tuning not me and he wants a base tune to work off of.

Novajoe

you already have a base tune... your stock tune. What you need to do is get the car running with the smt on it. If the smt is hooked up correctly and the car still won't start... then try putting a bigger pulley on it for the time being so there's not so much boost on the stock tune.

Once you get the car running start off with corrections with a/f. Datalog the a/f across the rpm range and go back and calibrate and try to get the a/f as clost to say 11.5 for now as you can.

You're probably not going to find many maps to work with. There's mot many cobalt owners running the smt and going back on what I said earlier you won't be able to use a base map from a cobalt ss because their stock settings are so much different from yours. I was just plain wrong on that and I apologize. The only map you're going to be able to use is from another 2.2 with a supercharger setup similar to yours. Good luck finding that one.

NJHK

I'm sorry but that was funny

lawl