So...building HHO (Hydrogen) Fuel Cell this weekend....
#102
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Good catch.
The Hydrogen has to have something to combust with, and Oxygen's its only option. Actually, compunds containing Oxygen are the only option for combustion with anything. Take the electrolyzed Oxygen out, and you have to combust the Hydrogen with the Oxygen pulled in from the outside air. This leaves less Oxygen for the fuel to combust with, resulting in a rich condition. The MAF would pull fuel to compensate for the unburned stuff in the exhaust (assuming there's enough of it to register on the MAF).
Of course, this would work if there was enough Hydrogen in the chamber to consume most of the Oxygen, but there isn't unless you compress it. Burning compressed Hydrogen has its own problems though (it would burn too hot for the gas engine). If you want to go that route, the Honda FCX is probably a better bet .
Putting Oxygen in after the MAF sensor on the intake will probably come out as a wash. The Hydrogen will consume it in the combustion reaction, rejoining with the Oxygen it was separated from, turning into water again, and the exhaust sensor will be none the wiser. I wonder what the water will do with that sensor though... hrm.
The Hydrogen has to have something to combust with, and Oxygen's its only option. Actually, compunds containing Oxygen are the only option for combustion with anything. Take the electrolyzed Oxygen out, and you have to combust the Hydrogen with the Oxygen pulled in from the outside air. This leaves less Oxygen for the fuel to combust with, resulting in a rich condition. The MAF would pull fuel to compensate for the unburned stuff in the exhaust (assuming there's enough of it to register on the MAF).
Of course, this would work if there was enough Hydrogen in the chamber to consume most of the Oxygen, but there isn't unless you compress it. Burning compressed Hydrogen has its own problems though (it would burn too hot for the gas engine). If you want to go that route, the Honda FCX is probably a better bet .
Putting Oxygen in after the MAF sensor on the intake will probably come out as a wash. The Hydrogen will consume it in the combustion reaction, rejoining with the Oxygen it was separated from, turning into water again, and the exhaust sensor will be none the wiser. I wonder what the water will do with that sensor though... hrm.
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Being a mechanical engineer doesnt really mean much.. I have met quite a few with a degree and not much common sense.
Please, by all means, write out the energy balance equation for breaking water into hydrogen and then for combining it back into water using the internal cobustion process (otto cycle)
You are proposing to have a self contained hydrogen supply... If you would do the chemistry you'd find it takes alot more energy to aquire hydrogen than you get in return.
I agree, hydrogen is a great fuel, but you wont get enough to make a difference. I'd go through the chemistry for you, but you're a mechanical engineer you should be able to do this for yourself
Just keep in mind, i've had mechanical engineers argue with me that using an "e-ram" was a good idea for the formula SAE race vehicle.. (its basically computer fans you place in the intake duct).. Then, i let them test it... then they went back to thier equations and found the missing factor that proved it was completely pointless..
So, please test it... just be man enough to admit it doesnt work when you figure it out..
I will say this, you are placing too much emphasis on the wrong part of the equation..
Its like the kid who said his bike moves without pedalling, While he is technically correct when he is coasting down a hill.. he completely disregards the amount of energy it takes to get up the hill in the first place
Please, by all means, write out the energy balance equation for breaking water into hydrogen and then for combining it back into water using the internal cobustion process (otto cycle)
You are proposing to have a self contained hydrogen supply... If you would do the chemistry you'd find it takes alot more energy to aquire hydrogen than you get in return.
I agree, hydrogen is a great fuel, but you wont get enough to make a difference. I'd go through the chemistry for you, but you're a mechanical engineer you should be able to do this for yourself
Just keep in mind, i've had mechanical engineers argue with me that using an "e-ram" was a good idea for the formula SAE race vehicle.. (its basically computer fans you place in the intake duct).. Then, i let them test it... then they went back to thier equations and found the missing factor that proved it was completely pointless..
So, please test it... just be man enough to admit it doesnt work when you figure it out..
I will say this, you are placing too much emphasis on the wrong part of the equation..
Its like the kid who said his bike moves without pedalling, While he is technically correct when he is coasting down a hill.. he completely disregards the amount of energy it takes to get up the hill in the first place
#106
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Being a mechanical engineer doesnt really mean much.. I have met quite a few with a degree and not much common sense.
Please, by all means, write out the energy balance equation for breaking water into hydrogen and then for combining it back into water using the internal cobustion process (otto cycle)
You are proposing to have a self contained hydrogen supply... If you would do the chemistry you'd find it takes alot more energy to aquire hydrogen than you get in return.
I agree, hydrogen is a great fuel, but you wont get enough to make a difference. I'd go through the chemistry for you, but you're a mechanical engineer you should be able to do this for yourself
Just keep in mind, i've had mechanical engineers argue with me that using an "e-ram" was a good idea for the formula SAE race vehicle.. (its basically computer fans you place in the intake duct).. Then, i let them test it... then they went back to thier equations and found the missing factor that proved it was completely pointless..
So, please test it... just be man enough to admit it doesnt work when you figure it out..
I will say this, you are placing too much emphasis on the wrong part of the equation..
Its like the kid who said his bike moves without pedalling, While he is technically correct when he is coasting down a hill.. he completely disregards the amount of energy it takes to get up the hill in the first place
Please, by all means, write out the energy balance equation for breaking water into hydrogen and then for combining it back into water using the internal cobustion process (otto cycle)
You are proposing to have a self contained hydrogen supply... If you would do the chemistry you'd find it takes alot more energy to aquire hydrogen than you get in return.
I agree, hydrogen is a great fuel, but you wont get enough to make a difference. I'd go through the chemistry for you, but you're a mechanical engineer you should be able to do this for yourself
Just keep in mind, i've had mechanical engineers argue with me that using an "e-ram" was a good idea for the formula SAE race vehicle.. (its basically computer fans you place in the intake duct).. Then, i let them test it... then they went back to thier equations and found the missing factor that proved it was completely pointless..
So, please test it... just be man enough to admit it doesnt work when you figure it out..
I will say this, you are placing too much emphasis on the wrong part of the equation..
Its like the kid who said his bike moves without pedalling, While he is technically correct when he is coasting down a hill.. he completely disregards the amount of energy it takes to get up the hill in the first place
And if a guy on this forum put it on his inline 6 cyl TJ with gears not made for the freeway and got like an extra 63 miles a tank...I'd say it was definitely worth it....as well as the dude with the orange cobalt saying how he did it and it worked with his cobalt....I'd kind of say everyone who's saying "it doesn't work and its bullshit" is gonna be bending over and kissing the asses of the people that did it already...not to mention an apology for being HATERS lol all good dude....
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driving style will have much more impact on your results...
as a good engineer, you need a "control" for your experiment. Make sure you do a test both with and without this under the same conditions. Only way to prove anything..
I can get an extra 60 miles from my tank by driving differently..
as a good engineer, you need a "control" for your experiment. Make sure you do a test both with and without this under the same conditions. Only way to prove anything..
I can get an extra 60 miles from my tank by driving differently..
#109
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driving style will have much more impact on your results...
as a good engineer, you need a "control" for your experiment. Make sure you do a test both with and without this under the same conditions. Only way to prove anything..
I can get an extra 60 miles from my tank by driving differently..
as a good engineer, you need a "control" for your experiment. Make sure you do a test both with and without this under the same conditions. Only way to prove anything..
I can get an extra 60 miles from my tank by driving differently..
and I know how many I get driving the same freeway without it already
yeah its pretty much like dumb and dumber lol.......
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Fill the car up, drive normally to the highway, drive for as many miles as you can stand, come back, fill the tank up. Turn the device on, and do it again. The more miles you drive, the more accurate the test. Ideally, you'll burn the whole tank. Fuel pumps don't shut off at the same point every time, the difference between getting 1 gallon and 1.2 gallons may be a matter of when the pump decides to shut off. You won't get the same error if you do a 10-12 gallon fill-up
Maybe even repeat the above a few more times, there's no such thing as too much data.
I'm granny-driving mine right now, car normally gets about 31 MPG, I'm getting 36.5 right now out of a Stage 2.... and probably pissing my clutch off by shifting so low
That's almost an 18% increase just from granny driving, which incidentally is a 66 mile increase per tank. I'm looking at 400 miles on a Stage 2 tank since I normally fill up with 11 gallons. If I pushed it to a 12-gallon fill-up I'm sure I could hit 430 on a tank without running out of gas.
Last edited by Badju587; 06-06-2008 at 02:08 PM.
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I'm granny-driving mine right now, car normally gets about 31 MPG, I'm getting 36.5 right now out of a Stage 2.... and probably pissing my clutch off by shifting so low
That's almost an 18% increase just from granny driving, which incidentally is a 66 mile increase per tank. I'm looking at 400 miles on a Stage 2 tank since I normally fill up with 11 gallons. If I pushed it to a 12-gallon fill-up I'm sure I could hit 430 on a tank without running out of gas.
That's almost an 18% increase just from granny driving, which incidentally is a 66 mile increase per tank. I'm looking at 400 miles on a Stage 2 tank since I normally fill up with 11 gallons. If I pushed it to a 12-gallon fill-up I'm sure I could hit 430 on a tank without running out of gas.
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Yeah sorry about that, I was a littel fuzzy on the restructuring of atoms after electrolysis, I didn't know we didn't have monoatomic oxygen...my bad...
AS for the extra o2? no it'll ignite, just like the hydrogen, all it needs is the spark plug, a guy at my work brought up what you said cakeeater, that it'll dump more fuel in to balance out the more o2, but I was thinking about it and pulled out my manual....the way the engine reads o2 is it reads it through the MAF sensor which responds to o2 rate of flow over the platinum wire and tells the computer how much o2 is coming, and then tells the system how much fuel to dump in from the table and then the o2 is measured coming out the back. The way our and I assume the "99%" of other cars from the water4gas website is that the computers are programmed to to take the MAF measurement over o2 sensor in the exhaust.
Myself and that other guy are going to plug them into the breather hole which is after the MAF , so the engine doesn't know its getting the extra air. Remember the only thing that keeps the o2 in the atmosphere from lighting off is the nitrogen and miscellanious gasses in the air. Concentrated o2 and h2 are going to burn up almost completely along and better burn the natural air o2 in your car and your car is going to detect a lot less o2 coming out, think its coming in too rich and lowering the gas tables to accomodate the "acceptable unburned o2 level on exit 1 and 2"
so you feel running an EXTREMELY lean mixture with some hydrogen is safe? The point is, using this system will also be adding a large amount of oxygen which defeats the purpose of the hydrogen.
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You're looking at less than 10 cubic feet of Oxygen gas out of a liter of water. Not much at all.
You did hit on the point though that Oxygen won't just combust by itself. It needs fuel, like Hydrogen or Gasoline. A combustion equation involving Oxygen and heat alone doesn't exist. In a closed system, with nothing but pure O2, Oxygen does not combust, no matter how much heat is applied.
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Actually, it won't be adding a large amount at all. There's only 105 moles of H+ (Hydrogen ions) being added by a quart of water, and electrolysis produces O2, so there are four times fewer Oxygen molecules floating around in the system than Hydrogen ions.
You're looking at less than 10 cubic feet of Oxygen gas out of a liter of water. Not much at all.
You did hit on the point though that Oxygen won't just combust by itself. It needs fuel, like Hydrogen or Gasoline. A combustion equation involving Oxygen and heat alone doesn't exist. In a closed system, with nothing but pure O2, Oxygen does not combust, no matter how much heat is applied.
You're looking at less than 10 cubic feet of Oxygen gas out of a liter of water. Not much at all.
You did hit on the point though that Oxygen won't just combust by itself. It needs fuel, like Hydrogen or Gasoline. A combustion equation involving Oxygen and heat alone doesn't exist. In a closed system, with nothing but pure O2, Oxygen does not combust, no matter how much heat is applied.
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well I built and installed the system...just like I said I would...looks like its working, although the effect of it seems more drastic in the low end of the RPM range rather than the upper end....
My first run with it at 45mph in 5th gear on a level road against a 20mph wind showed a 60.1mpg in dash...
Freeway showed 54mpg in 5th gear cruise on a level road @60mph
Freeway showed 50mpg in 5th gear cruise on a level road @65mph
Freeway showed 40mpg in 5th gear cruise on an uphill steep grade @70mph w/ head on 20mph....
I'll take official readings tomorrow based on a full tank and the out and back trip to arizona @ 65mph....when I get back I'll fill up and see how much it took to get out there and back....should be a good enough change from the suggested 34mpg epa that it came with...
How-to pics are done and ready for everyone...though I think I will be refining the design a little more as some of what I built is a little more flimsy than I'd like....
My first run with it at 45mph in 5th gear on a level road against a 20mph wind showed a 60.1mpg in dash...
Freeway showed 54mpg in 5th gear cruise on a level road @60mph
Freeway showed 50mpg in 5th gear cruise on a level road @65mph
Freeway showed 40mpg in 5th gear cruise on an uphill steep grade @70mph w/ head on 20mph....
I'll take official readings tomorrow based on a full tank and the out and back trip to arizona @ 65mph....when I get back I'll fill up and see how much it took to get out there and back....should be a good enough change from the suggested 34mpg epa that it came with...
How-to pics are done and ready for everyone...though I think I will be refining the design a little more as some of what I built is a little more flimsy than I'd like....
#116
well I built and installed the system...just like I said I would...looks like its working, although the effect of it seems more drastic in the low end of the RPM range rather than the upper end....
My first run with it at 45mph in 5th gear on a level road against a 20mph wind showed a 60.1mpg in dash...
Freeway showed 54mpg in 5th gear cruise on a level road @60mph
Freeway showed 50mpg in 5th gear cruise on a level road @65mph
Freeway showed 40mpg in 5th gear cruise on an uphill steep grade @70mph w/ head on 20mph....
I'll take official readings tomorrow based on a full tank and the out and back trip to arizona @ 65mph....when I get back I'll fill up and see how much it took to get out there and back....should be a good enough change from the suggested 34mpg epa that it came with...
How-to pics are done and ready for everyone...though I think I will be refining the design a little more as some of what I built is a little more flimsy than I'd like....
My first run with it at 45mph in 5th gear on a level road against a 20mph wind showed a 60.1mpg in dash...
Freeway showed 54mpg in 5th gear cruise on a level road @60mph
Freeway showed 50mpg in 5th gear cruise on a level road @65mph
Freeway showed 40mpg in 5th gear cruise on an uphill steep grade @70mph w/ head on 20mph....
I'll take official readings tomorrow based on a full tank and the out and back trip to arizona @ 65mph....when I get back I'll fill up and see how much it took to get out there and back....should be a good enough change from the suggested 34mpg epa that it came with...
How-to pics are done and ready for everyone...though I think I will be refining the design a little more as some of what I built is a little more flimsy than I'd like....
nice man. yeah get some good pics and accurate readings though. you can't trust the computer readings sometimes.
#117
Don't let this happen to you!:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfk8jXVUF34
btw, I have a Honda Pilot that already gets around 20 mpg mostly hwy and have a 3000+ mile trip coming up. Tempted to try the hydrogen setup on it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfk8jXVUF34
btw, I have a Honda Pilot that already gets around 20 mpg mostly hwy and have a 3000+ mile trip coming up. Tempted to try the hydrogen setup on it
#118
Don't let this happen to you!:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfk8jXVUF34
btw, I have a Honda Pilot that already gets around 20 mpg mostly hwy and have a 3000+ mile trip coming up. Tempted to try the hydrogen setup on it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfk8jXVUF34
btw, I have a Honda Pilot that already gets around 20 mpg mostly hwy and have a 3000+ mile trip coming up. Tempted to try the hydrogen setup on it
#119
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yeah it was...definitely looked like the line to the glass of water was clogged somewhere....As long as my 1/2" heater hose doesn't get clogged it should be fine...besides I sealed everything with RTV....even if it does get clogged it will blow the RTV before it blows the glass apart lol.....
trip today was great....47.2mi @ .831 gallons...pics assembing tomorrow for posting...comes out to be 56.799mpg.............I'd say this works for sure lol..
#120
yeah it was...definitely looked like the line to the glass of water was clogged somewhere....As long as my 1/2" heater hose doesn't get clogged it should be fine...besides I sealed everything with RTV....even if it does get clogged it will blow the RTV before it blows the glass apart lol.....
trip today was great....47.2mi @ .831 gallons...pics assembing tomorrow for posting...comes out to be 56.799mpg.............I'd say this works for sure lol..
trip today was great....47.2mi @ .831 gallons...pics assembing tomorrow for posting...comes out to be 56.799mpg.............I'd say this works for sure lol..
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What a fun read...
I have two friends who are trying this out. They claim they saw an increase in MPG, but I was skeptical. If it works so well, why isn't it being used in all cars produced nowadays?? I am thinking there IS a catch somewhere...just another one of those "old wives tales" or myths that seems to be true at first....
Anyways, I am open to new ideas... The test vehicle is a late 90's something V-8 full size Dodge pick-up, gas motor. I think they built their own kit from parts bought at Home Depot. They claimed a 3 mpg increase at first, maybe went from 12 mpg to 15 or so. Then said they made some changes, and maybe got a better increase in mpg, 5 to 8 mpg increase. They have been logging all the fuel purchases and mileage for almost 3 months now. I questioned the ability to make fuel efficiently. I thought it would probably take more energy to create the gas than was gained in efficiency of the motor. But if you can use electrical power that is already being wasted....it could work in theory. I also suggested they were just driving more carefully to get higher MPG readings. Like how you install a performance part on the Cobalt and then "feel" a difference in HP. Maybe the actual gain in minimal, but you "want to believe it." Maybe other members can suggest some problems with this type of set-up??
Here are a few more of my questions:
1) How are you sure this is not creating a "bomb" under the hood of the car? I guess there is a method to put a check valve or omething on the gas cannister.
2) If the alternator is running more to provide more electrical output being used, will it wear out much sooner?? Just a thought.
3) I wondered if test conditions were exactly the same for testing with the hydrogen gas and without. Is there a headwind in one direction, but tailwind when returning from trip?? The same trip should be run twice in same time frame to get same test conditions. Any experiment can yield very weird results if ALL the conditions are not monitored and kept equal.
4) What other expenses go into producing the hydrogen gas? I asked about the salt that was purchased to add to the water. I guess this was the "catalyst" that was mentioned? It was claimed that the "salt" purchases did not cost that much, maybe a few bucks per container....and it should last a while I was told. I need to check back on this fact. If producing the hydrogen is costing too much, might as well just pay more for the extra gasoline used. Also, the cost of the water was a buck a gallon.
5) Is the mixture going into the engine highly corrosive?? Will this wreck any components of the engine?? I was shown that the metal plates contained in the cannister had to be made out of stainless steel. Iron plates just rotted away I guess. My friends used some stainless steel light switch plates they bought at Home Depot.
Well, I was shown the set-up they were using, and it did show some kind of gas being produced and going into the intake manifold. The cannister was rather large and hard to place in the engine bay. Maybe about the size of a coffee can?? Lots of room in the full size truck engine bay, but not that kind of room in the Cobalt...hmmm..... I wondered if the hydrogen producing containers could be made out of thinner straight PVC tubing or something to save space?? Could they be placed horizontally in the engine bay?? That would leave room to put a bunch of PVC tubing, maybe 1 or 2" tubing?? just a few thoughts I had so far.....
I have two friends who are trying this out. They claim they saw an increase in MPG, but I was skeptical. If it works so well, why isn't it being used in all cars produced nowadays?? I am thinking there IS a catch somewhere...just another one of those "old wives tales" or myths that seems to be true at first....
Anyways, I am open to new ideas... The test vehicle is a late 90's something V-8 full size Dodge pick-up, gas motor. I think they built their own kit from parts bought at Home Depot. They claimed a 3 mpg increase at first, maybe went from 12 mpg to 15 or so. Then said they made some changes, and maybe got a better increase in mpg, 5 to 8 mpg increase. They have been logging all the fuel purchases and mileage for almost 3 months now. I questioned the ability to make fuel efficiently. I thought it would probably take more energy to create the gas than was gained in efficiency of the motor. But if you can use electrical power that is already being wasted....it could work in theory. I also suggested they were just driving more carefully to get higher MPG readings. Like how you install a performance part on the Cobalt and then "feel" a difference in HP. Maybe the actual gain in minimal, but you "want to believe it." Maybe other members can suggest some problems with this type of set-up??
Here are a few more of my questions:
1) How are you sure this is not creating a "bomb" under the hood of the car? I guess there is a method to put a check valve or omething on the gas cannister.
2) If the alternator is running more to provide more electrical output being used, will it wear out much sooner?? Just a thought.
3) I wondered if test conditions were exactly the same for testing with the hydrogen gas and without. Is there a headwind in one direction, but tailwind when returning from trip?? The same trip should be run twice in same time frame to get same test conditions. Any experiment can yield very weird results if ALL the conditions are not monitored and kept equal.
4) What other expenses go into producing the hydrogen gas? I asked about the salt that was purchased to add to the water. I guess this was the "catalyst" that was mentioned? It was claimed that the "salt" purchases did not cost that much, maybe a few bucks per container....and it should last a while I was told. I need to check back on this fact. If producing the hydrogen is costing too much, might as well just pay more for the extra gasoline used. Also, the cost of the water was a buck a gallon.
5) Is the mixture going into the engine highly corrosive?? Will this wreck any components of the engine?? I was shown that the metal plates contained in the cannister had to be made out of stainless steel. Iron plates just rotted away I guess. My friends used some stainless steel light switch plates they bought at Home Depot.
Well, I was shown the set-up they were using, and it did show some kind of gas being produced and going into the intake manifold. The cannister was rather large and hard to place in the engine bay. Maybe about the size of a coffee can?? Lots of room in the full size truck engine bay, but not that kind of room in the Cobalt...hmmm..... I wondered if the hydrogen producing containers could be made out of thinner straight PVC tubing or something to save space?? Could they be placed horizontally in the engine bay?? That would leave room to put a bunch of PVC tubing, maybe 1 or 2" tubing?? just a few thoughts I had so far.....
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yeah it was...definitely looked like the line to the glass of water was clogged somewhere....As long as my 1/2" heater hose doesn't get clogged it should be fine...besides I sealed everything with RTV....even if it does get clogged it will blow the RTV before it blows the glass apart lol.....
trip today was great....47.2mi @ .831 gallons...pics assembing tomorrow for posting...comes out to be 56.799mpg.............I'd say this works for sure lol..
trip today was great....47.2mi @ .831 gallons...pics assembing tomorrow for posting...comes out to be 56.799mpg.............I'd say this works for sure lol..
#125
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yeah it was...definitely looked like the line to the glass of water was clogged somewhere....As long as my 1/2" heater hose doesn't get clogged it should be fine...besides I sealed everything with RTV....even if it does get clogged it will blow the RTV before it blows the glass apart lol.....
trip today was great....47.2mi @ .831 gallons...pics assembing tomorrow for posting...comes out to be 56.799mpg.............I'd say this works for sure lol..
trip today was great....47.2mi @ .831 gallons...pics assembing tomorrow for posting...comes out to be 56.799mpg.............I'd say this works for sure lol..
What a fun read...
I have two friends who are trying this out. They claim they saw an increase in MPG, but I was skeptical. If it works so well, why isn't it being used in all cars produced nowadays?? I am thinking there IS a catch somewhere...just another one of those "old wives tales" or myths that seems to be true at first....
Anyways, I am open to new ideas... The test vehicle is a late 90's something V-8 full size Dodge pick-up, gas motor. I think they built their own kit from parts bought at Home Depot. They claimed a 3 mpg increase at first, maybe went from 12 mpg to 15 or so. Then said they made some changes, and maybe got a better increase in mpg, 5 to 8 mpg increase. They have been logging all the fuel purchases and mileage for almost 3 months now. I questioned the ability to make fuel efficiently. I thought it would probably take more energy to create the gas than was gained in efficiency of the motor. But if you can use electrical power that is already being wasted....it could work in theory. I also suggested they were just driving more carefully to get higher MPG readings. Like how you install a performance part on the Cobalt and then "feel" a difference in HP. Maybe the actual gain in minimal, but you "want to believe it." Maybe other members can suggest some problems with this type of set-up??
Here are a few more of my questions:
1) How are you sure this is not creating a "bomb" under the hood of the car? I guess there is a method to put a check valve or omething on the gas cannister.
2) If the alternator is running more to provide more electrical output being used, will it wear out much sooner?? Just a thought.
3) I wondered if test conditions were exactly the same for testing with the hydrogen gas and without. Is there a headwind in one direction, but tailwind when returning from trip?? The same trip should be run twice in same time frame to get same test conditions. Any experiment can yield very weird results if ALL the conditions are not monitored and kept equal.
4) What other expenses go into producing the hydrogen gas? I asked about the salt that was purchased to add to the water. I guess this was the "catalyst" that was mentioned? It was claimed that the "salt" purchases did not cost that much, maybe a few bucks per container....and it should last a while I was told. I need to check back on this fact. If producing the hydrogen is costing too much, might as well just pay more for the extra gasoline used. Also, the cost of the water was a buck a gallon.
5) Is the mixture going into the engine highly corrosive?? Will this wreck any components of the engine?? I was shown that the metal plates contained in the cannister had to be made out of stainless steel. Iron plates just rotted away I guess. My friends used some stainless steel light switch plates they bought at Home Depot.
Well, I was shown the set-up they were using, and it did show some kind of gas being produced and going into the intake manifold. The cannister was rather large and hard to place in the engine bay. Maybe about the size of a coffee can?? Lots of room in the full size truck engine bay, but not that kind of room in the Cobalt...hmmm..... I wondered if the hydrogen producing containers could be made out of thinner straight PVC tubing or something to save space?? Could they be placed horizontally in the engine bay?? That would leave room to put a bunch of PVC tubing, maybe 1 or 2" tubing?? just a few thoughts I had so far.....
I have two friends who are trying this out. They claim they saw an increase in MPG, but I was skeptical. If it works so well, why isn't it being used in all cars produced nowadays?? I am thinking there IS a catch somewhere...just another one of those "old wives tales" or myths that seems to be true at first....
Anyways, I am open to new ideas... The test vehicle is a late 90's something V-8 full size Dodge pick-up, gas motor. I think they built their own kit from parts bought at Home Depot. They claimed a 3 mpg increase at first, maybe went from 12 mpg to 15 or so. Then said they made some changes, and maybe got a better increase in mpg, 5 to 8 mpg increase. They have been logging all the fuel purchases and mileage for almost 3 months now. I questioned the ability to make fuel efficiently. I thought it would probably take more energy to create the gas than was gained in efficiency of the motor. But if you can use electrical power that is already being wasted....it could work in theory. I also suggested they were just driving more carefully to get higher MPG readings. Like how you install a performance part on the Cobalt and then "feel" a difference in HP. Maybe the actual gain in minimal, but you "want to believe it." Maybe other members can suggest some problems with this type of set-up??
Here are a few more of my questions:
1) How are you sure this is not creating a "bomb" under the hood of the car? I guess there is a method to put a check valve or omething on the gas cannister.
2) If the alternator is running more to provide more electrical output being used, will it wear out much sooner?? Just a thought.
3) I wondered if test conditions were exactly the same for testing with the hydrogen gas and without. Is there a headwind in one direction, but tailwind when returning from trip?? The same trip should be run twice in same time frame to get same test conditions. Any experiment can yield very weird results if ALL the conditions are not monitored and kept equal.
4) What other expenses go into producing the hydrogen gas? I asked about the salt that was purchased to add to the water. I guess this was the "catalyst" that was mentioned? It was claimed that the "salt" purchases did not cost that much, maybe a few bucks per container....and it should last a while I was told. I need to check back on this fact. If producing the hydrogen is costing too much, might as well just pay more for the extra gasoline used. Also, the cost of the water was a buck a gallon.
5) Is the mixture going into the engine highly corrosive?? Will this wreck any components of the engine?? I was shown that the metal plates contained in the cannister had to be made out of stainless steel. Iron plates just rotted away I guess. My friends used some stainless steel light switch plates they bought at Home Depot.
Well, I was shown the set-up they were using, and it did show some kind of gas being produced and going into the intake manifold. The cannister was rather large and hard to place in the engine bay. Maybe about the size of a coffee can?? Lots of room in the full size truck engine bay, but not that kind of room in the Cobalt...hmmm..... I wondered if the hydrogen producing containers could be made out of thinner straight PVC tubing or something to save space?? Could they be placed horizontally in the engine bay?? That would leave room to put a bunch of PVC tubing, maybe 1 or 2" tubing?? just a few thoughts I had so far.....
Why would the water cost $1 a gallon? You can use tap water.
And the catalyst can vary. Some are more efficient than others, you can use baking soda, and some use some type of potassium or something. My friend bought 500grams of some catalyst for $30 after shipping. I don't know if that was a good deal or not, we will see.
Last edited by Psykostevo; 06-08-2008 at 01:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost