So what's the final word on normally aspirated power??
11-06-2007, 08:48 PM
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So what's the final word on normally aspirated power??
After reading thru 22 pages of multiple threads and conflicting opinions and well just lotsa confusing stuff...what's the final word on getting better normally aspirated power out of my 2007 2.2 LS Coupe with the 5 speed? I don't want to lose what little low-end power I have just so I can sound like a bumblebee on meth out there. It is completely stock with 6,000 miles, so I'm inclined to use the GMPP extruded header, GMPP catback touring exhaust, and the GMPP air filter and unplug my battery so the computer can reset - however, I read that the 2007 header is different than the 2005 and 2006. Is there anything intake wise I can do?
Can someone give me a 'power package' with parts listed and what kind of power increase am I looking at?
What's the final word?
Can someone give me a 'power package' with parts listed and what kind of power increase am I looking at?
What's the final word?
11-06-2007, 09:01 PM
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The usual bolt ons first, C.A. intake, full exhaust (not sure about 07 differences). That should give you up to 15hp increase. Just shop wisely for an exhuast that sounds good to you. I just had the resonator removed and left the stock muffer to keep the noise down.
11-06-2007, 09:08 PM
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Get whatever CAI intake you can find for the cheapest, they all do the same thing. Don't bother with the GMPP exhaust manifold, go with a real header. I do recommend the GMPP exhaust and the touring exhaust in particular seeing as you seem to want to avoid being too loud. Make sure to get a downpipe as well, because that is a point of restriction. With an intake and full exhaust you should be making about 20 extra hp at the crank. Since you want to keep low end power, do not get the 2.4 intake manifold. As far as anything else, you will have to wait for tuning.
Thats all I could think of on the fly.
Thats all I could think of on the fly.
11-06-2007, 09:50 PM
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You can get some stage 1 or 2 cams, 11:1 CR Pistons, neutral balance shafts, and an AEM FIC for tuning and could put like 200whp down NA. If you tune it right it could be a pretty quick NA car.
11-07-2007, 09:27 AM
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I honestly would really like to see a 2.2 with 11:1 CR pistons, bigger cams, and a tune. The neutral shafts would just allow for faster reving/remove some weight off the engine to free up some power. Im in a position right now where i could do it very easily but im going the FI route. I dont want 11:1 CR with a procharger cuz i really dont want to run race gas on a DD.
11-07-2007, 09:30 AM
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11-07-2007, 09:33 AM
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You do realize the F23 tranny can take a **** load more then that right? There are a bunch of us cobalt guys + cavy guys running between 200 and 300wtq on the tranny with no problems.
11-07-2007, 09:54 AM
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i have the same car that you do and i have CAI, 2.4 mani, and cat back. the exhaust mani is the same as the ss i think... so i would go with a header and then get a high flow cat because the down pipe is already 2.5 in, after that im not sure... im goin with n2o after i get a header and the highflow cat.
good luck modding your ride man
good luck modding your ride man
11-07-2007, 10:10 AM
#11
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Honestly, it's just like any other vehicle
1. Increase Displacement
2. Increase Engine Revolutions
3. Increase Volumetric Efficiency
There isn't going to be a set rule on what you have to do. It's much harder on a 4 cylinder to do it because you're limited in how much of a stroke you're having or how much you can bore (and actually make a power difference). You're also limited in air velocity charge coming into your intake system. This is why increase engine revolutions is the most sought out thing to do because the more engine revolutions, the more intake strokes are occuring and the more air and stronger velocity pull you'll create.
This is just the very start of things. You have to do your own research or ask more questions or read more books because it's the general understanding of how everything works. My explaination doesn't mean you can go and just increase your engine revolutions and call it a day. It's a MUCH bigger process and this is also playing a huge part in driveability and idle quality when you start messing with items like camshafts being that you don't have Variable Valve Timing.
It's alot to look at and understand.
1. Increase Displacement
2. Increase Engine Revolutions
3. Increase Volumetric Efficiency
There isn't going to be a set rule on what you have to do. It's much harder on a 4 cylinder to do it because you're limited in how much of a stroke you're having or how much you can bore (and actually make a power difference). You're also limited in air velocity charge coming into your intake system. This is why increase engine revolutions is the most sought out thing to do because the more engine revolutions, the more intake strokes are occuring and the more air and stronger velocity pull you'll create.
This is just the very start of things. You have to do your own research or ask more questions or read more books because it's the general understanding of how everything works. My explaination doesn't mean you can go and just increase your engine revolutions and call it a day. It's a MUCH bigger process and this is also playing a huge part in driveability and idle quality when you start messing with items like camshafts being that you don't have Variable Valve Timing.
It's alot to look at and understand.
11-07-2007, 10:30 AM
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Honestly, it's just like any other vehicle
1. Increase Displacement
2. Increase Engine Revolutions
3. Increase Volumetric Efficiency
There isn't going to be a set rule on what you have to do. It's much harder on a 4 cylinder to do it because you're limited in how much of a stroke you're having or how much you can bore (and actually make a power difference). You're also limited in air velocity charge coming into your intake system. This is why increase engine revolutions is the most sought out thing to do because the more engine revolutions, the more intake strokes are occuring and the more air and stronger velocity pull you'll create.
This is just the very start of things. You have to do your own research or ask more questions or read more books because it's the general understanding of how everything works. My explaination doesn't mean you can go and just increase your engine revolutions and call it a day. It's a MUCH bigger process and this is also playing a huge part in driveability and idle quality when you start messing with items like camshafts being that you don't have Variable Valve Timing.
It's alot to look at and understand.
1. Increase Displacement
2. Increase Engine Revolutions
3. Increase Volumetric Efficiency
There isn't going to be a set rule on what you have to do. It's much harder on a 4 cylinder to do it because you're limited in how much of a stroke you're having or how much you can bore (and actually make a power difference). You're also limited in air velocity charge coming into your intake system. This is why increase engine revolutions is the most sought out thing to do because the more engine revolutions, the more intake strokes are occuring and the more air and stronger velocity pull you'll create.
This is just the very start of things. You have to do your own research or ask more questions or read more books because it's the general understanding of how everything works. My explaination doesn't mean you can go and just increase your engine revolutions and call it a day. It's a MUCH bigger process and this is also playing a huge part in driveability and idle quality when you start messing with items like camshafts being that you don't have Variable Valve Timing.
It's alot to look at and understand.
11-07-2007, 11:15 AM
#13
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its regarded as being pretty bomb proof (bar a few selector fork issues if not looked after)
Im going for 2.4 inlet, some GMPP style cams from cat cams (and a mild tweek to the profile to suit my desire), a LSJ head with waisted stem stock valves, porting and a skim to get the CR near 11:1. Stand alone management and possibly some LSJ injectors to ensure they cope on stock pressure. Hopefully this will see 210-220bhp on a low (stock) rev limit.
11-07-2007, 11:31 AM
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yep its used in some 350bhp turbo engines in the UK.
its regarded as being pretty bomb proof (bar a few selector fork issues if not looked after)
Im going for 2.4 inlet, some GMPP style cams from cat cams (and a mild tweek to the profile to suit my desire), a LSJ head with waisted stem stock valves, porting and a skim to get the CR near 11:1. Stand alone management and possibly some LSJ injectors to ensure they cope on stock pressure. Hopefully this will see 210-220bhp on a low (stock) rev limit.
its regarded as being pretty bomb proof (bar a few selector fork issues if not looked after)
Im going for 2.4 inlet, some GMPP style cams from cat cams (and a mild tweek to the profile to suit my desire), a LSJ head with waisted stem stock valves, porting and a skim to get the CR near 11:1. Stand alone management and possibly some LSJ injectors to ensure they cope on stock pressure. Hopefully this will see 210-220bhp on a low (stock) rev limit.
11-07-2007, 01:17 PM
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I have a 2007 LT. My power adders are as follows: Hahn Racecraft exhaust manifold and 2.75" DP, Tsudo 2.25" Cat Back, Injen CAI, 2.4l intake manifold. It performs up to my expectations. If I can find a dyno around here for a decent price I will get it done. I was originally going to go N2O even have the kit, but I want turbo.
11-07-2007, 09:44 PM
#17
hmmm...i will be takin my car to a dyno sometime next week, my mods are gmpp intake, lsj header, lsj downpipe, and lsj catback exhaust, i ave more, but those r the only ones that affect performance, well and a short shifter, but i seriously doubt it makes a diffrence on the dyno
11-08-2007, 04:41 AM
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www.catcams.be
its the opel 2.2 roller lifter engine you want to look at.
thing is they come in at £400 which is like $800 at the moment....
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