NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

so, most of you around this section have seen my build, cai, 2.4 mani. 2.4 tb, lsj injectors, shaved head .020", stg2 comp cams, clear image 4-2-1 header, 2.5"catless dp, 3" clear image exhaust and a tune

it runs a little bit rough at idle and sometimes dies out, i think its due to the spark plugs, any suggestions on what i should be running for this? and what gap?

Maven

iTrader: (1)

ACDelco or NGK, stock.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

stock heat range ngk and stock gap? (what is stock gap)

Black SS/SC 06

iTrader: (6)

owner's manual FTW

hugemurph4

dont get stock... u got a crazy aftermarket list there...which is nasty i might add...but if i were you i would try and get a nice set of spark plugs specially not stock, i know some people on here say stock is just fine but if ur pushing more fuel through those injectors im sure u need better spark plugs, also i have a good friend who is a mechanic and he said stock plugs are for stock cars in your case ur def not stock specially with the head work and the cams...so i suggest go with i nice set of NGKs but u can do what u wanna do haha

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

im thinking 1 step colder as i was doing research on ngk and it said 1 step for every 75-100hp change...ive gone from approx 115 stock to (estimate) 180 now (dynoing tomorrow) and that is about the case...
but with going higher compression and such, would i want to go colder and hotter?

flobeelicious

not sure about the lower models, but the ss/scs were equipped with NGK from the factory. they now have an acdelco part number instead of the NGK listed in the manual, but they're still marked NGK on the plug.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

mine werent, and im was running on schucks stock replacements (cheapest brand lol) and need new ones, i think its helping to cause the rough idle...i also need to check the gap

hugemurph4

just go NGK and im guessing 1 step colder but hey its a guess...my thought is cuz of people the Spray there cobalts use 1 to 2 step colder plugs but hey its only a guess haha

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

lol, time for more research

after some research...stock heat range, stock gap, ngk brand is what im going to go with
engine temps are fine so no need to go colder and dont want it to heat up anymore either
going to see if i can get ahold of some tonight to replace my stocker cheapo schucks brand for the dyno tomorrow

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Hey.....guess what.......stock plugs are NGK.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

really??? hmmmm......interesting lol
schucks doesnt even carry them, but it seems to be idling ALOT better today..im guessing just needs to be able to read air flow maps and fuel maps and stuff cause its ALLLL new

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

Just buy a mini tazer and make an adapter to fit into each hole jk

NWAE Cobalt

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loozer

Sentry

If you get the iridiums, make sure you don't try to gap them. The tips are too fragile to gap, they come in different forms depending on your setup though.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

ngk iridium is what im thinking about getting, will be right before the track

RobHole

I'm going to go a little offtopic on this one tom and say HELP ME WITH MY BUILD LIST ALREADY DAMNIT! lol.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

lol, sorry, been preoccupied, i need to pull out your stuff still lolol

massivematt

if its acting like it wants to die, you probably dont have the timing advanced enough or its running too lean. You have to advance the timing quite a bit with stage 2's. Although it wont hurt to put a new set of plugs in.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

well it does have new plugs after the build, it has autolites, stock heat and gap
Vince is going to work on it a tiny bit more today, timing is right, we know that, and it has gotten better after letting it drive for a while, but everyonce in a while it tries to die lol,
its also running way rich, when i dynoed on sat (vince wasnt able to be there) i had an afr of 11 instead of being up around 13-14...so i hope that fixes it

massivematt

Hmm. yeah i did have the same issue with AFR. I was running 11.5 at WOT, so vince changed it to more around 13.8. Anyhow, i would honestly stay away from autolite plugs, even though that's not what's making it die. I was wondering, when does it want to die? is it right after a WOT or after you feather the throttle? Also, does it do this when the car is warm or cold? For me, it will almost die if its cold and you come to a stop, and when you rev it then let off of it too quick. mail me back.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

ya, its mainly right when it cold starts for a second, or after its all warmed up when i come from wot, it isnt doing it now that vince fixed the afr this morning
im going to change the plugs when i get paid next week to ngk iridiums

hugemurph4

what it sounds like is that when you rev it quick the ECU want to compinsate too much and throws to much fuel the spark plugs can handle...and thats all she wrote...so maybe u might wanna get a little better set of spark plugs

BLAZIN07SS

iTrader: (7)

dude the plugs are fine, they are not the issue. stock heat range is stock heat range, its only their ability to dissipate heat

Razgriz

Autolite Platinum...good or bad?