squires turbo systems remote mount, update
#326
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#327
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the pictures cant really tell me the size here, you can tho.
you should know what to do by now any ways...
however, dude there are soooooooooooooo many flaws in that set up already....and who did your welding, a few of them, mostly along the BOV section are ugly.....and most likely leaking.
i urge you to smack your fab guys in the face.....and your self a bit....that fount bumper is nasty, not just the design, the pain job!
replace the worm clamps with T-bolts, and weld the pipes together, at most you should need 2-4 couplers for the whole system...you have more then that on just the out let of the IC.
your adding sooooooooooo much unneeded lag.
where the hell do you have the MAF any who?
you should know what to do by now any ways...
however, dude there are soooooooooooooo many flaws in that set up already....and who did your welding, a few of them, mostly along the BOV section are ugly.....and most likely leaking.
i urge you to smack your fab guys in the face.....and your self a bit....that fount bumper is nasty, not just the design, the pain job!
replace the worm clamps with T-bolts, and weld the pipes together, at most you should need 2-4 couplers for the whole system...you have more then that on just the out let of the IC.
your adding sooooooooooo much unneeded lag.
where the hell do you have the MAF any who?
#329
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there isnt any boost leaks, we put some ultra violet leak detector crap and sprayed it into the intake side w/ out the filter and spooled it a few times and didnt see anything under the black lights coming out anywhere. the metal they used isnt stainless or anything so all the welds that were made are already starting to rust. there are so many couplers up on the tb side because there use to be nitrous injecotrs in there and they are being covered up by the couplers.
i have no clue what t-bolt is.
i have no clue what t-bolt is.
#330
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there isnt any boost leaks, we put some ultra violet leak detector crap and sprayed it into the intake side w/ out the filter and spooled it a few times and didnt see anything under the black lights coming out anywhere. the metal they used isnt stainless or anything so all the welds that were made are already starting to rust. there are so many couplers up on the tb side because there use to be nitrous injecotrs in there and they are being covered up by the couplers.
i have no clue what t-bolt is.
i have no clue what t-bolt is.
weld the charge pipe together, thus making boost leaks a thing of the past.
leave all those couplers and week ass clamps in there and you WILL be leaking in no time....never good for a tune, or a turbo.
a t-bolt is a clamp......
http://hose-clamp.chinese-suppliers....e_clamp/15.jpg
replace your normal clamps with these....they not only get tighter with out braking, but they also wont back off and get loose and ****...
AND, most of all they hold together under boost....run more then a few PSI and those worm drive clamps will come popping off, thus causing leaks, and that will eventually blow the turbo.
not good, yaaaaa?
#331
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**** man.. those welds look worse then my exhaust weld .. and i never welded before when i did that.. seriously man.. and I have 1 small leak.. ( albeit thats due to the welder not being powerful enough.. ) but seriously.. wow that shop.. just wow man they hosed the **** out of you.. 3+ for install and shoddy work none the less.. the less couplers the better.. and aside from the fact that you shouldn't need any couplers by the tb you have 3 or 4
i mean i respect that you're putting work into being different but cripes do it right or don't do it at all
i mean i respect that you're putting work into being different but cripes do it right or don't do it at all
#333
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worm clamps for the loss, t bolts are better they are the ones that came with my IC kit, they hold boost better, the regular worm style have a tendency to pop off, i know cuz my buddys eclipse keep pooping off...also it doesnt look that bad...i mean you have loads of lines you should hid a bit more, instead of letting them curl up in the engine bay, besides that its not that bad,i can tell you front end has been thru hell though any vids of it running yet? atleast yo got it going, now making it nice is next
#334
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worm clamps for the loss, t bolts are better they are the ones that came with my IC kit, they hold boost better, the regular worm style have a tendency to pop off, i know cuz my buddys eclipse keep pooping off...also it doesnt look that bad...i mean you have loads of lines you should hid a bit more, instead of letting them curl up in the engine bay, besides that its not that bad,i can tell you front end has been thru hell though any vids of it running yet? atleast yo got it going, now making it nice is next
no, no new video's... i blew out the header collector gasket for the 4th time so the turbo isnt making any boost unless im on the interstate at 60mph and then tromp on it. if i go from a dig all the exhuast is blowing right out of the collector. I'm waiting on my ZZP LSJ shorty header and ZZP with high flow cat to come in. Then we will see whats up with the rest of it.
I did notice that my charge piping seams to be a bit larger compaired to this other balt they used for fitment at a shop in utah. so im going to see if i cant get this other shop to change it all out to a smaller diamiter up to just before the MAF sensor
example A: smaller charger piping,
example B: my charge piping
where can i order some T-bolt Clamps
Last edited by xCobalt05x; 05-26-2008 at 01:10 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#335
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http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/t-...nkwZtQ20clamps
find the size u need, to make it easier, search 2.5 t bolt clamp, substitue the 2.5 with the size u need, look for a pack, they are more affordable than just buyin one at a time
also bro not sure how far back or how hard it is o take the piping you can see from the front of the car and that in the engine bay, but what you can do is take it all off, and get it powder coated in some color, that'll make t looks nice, or maybe ceramic if you want it to be scratch proof
find the size u need, to make it easier, search 2.5 t bolt clamp, substitue the 2.5 with the size u need, look for a pack, they are more affordable than just buyin one at a time
also bro not sure how far back or how hard it is o take the piping you can see from the front of the car and that in the engine bay, but what you can do is take it all off, and get it powder coated in some color, that'll make t looks nice, or maybe ceramic if you want it to be scratch proof
Last edited by Jn2; 05-26-2008 at 07:34 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#336
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http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/t-...nkwZtQ20clamps
find the size u need, to make it easier, search 2.5 t bolt clamp, substitue the 2.5 with the size u need, look for a pack, they are more affordable than just buyin one at a time
also bro not sure how far back or how hard it is o take the piping you can see from the front of the car and that in the engine bay, but what you can do is take it all off, and get it powder coated in some color, that'll make t looks nice, or maybe ceramic if you want it to be scratch proof
find the size u need, to make it easier, search 2.5 t bolt clamp, substitue the 2.5 with the size u need, look for a pack, they are more affordable than just buyin one at a time
also bro not sure how far back or how hard it is o take the piping you can see from the front of the car and that in the engine bay, but what you can do is take it all off, and get it powder coated in some color, that'll make t looks nice, or maybe ceramic if you want it to be scratch proof
#337
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what size is your charge pipe comeing out of the turbo?
if they did 3in charge pipe, kill your fab shop, thats gonna make a laggy turbo a large amount laggyer(sp?)
if they did 3in charge pipe, kill your fab shop, thats gonna make a laggy turbo a large amount laggyer(sp?)
#338
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well, i was beat out of 3rd place by a SRT/4 (at my frist car show with the sts kit, everyone loved it, even the JDM guys that were there), i got honorable mention, a shelby GT500 got second place and a 71 stingray supercharged got first place, they put all the domestics in one gategory,
here is what she looked like at the show
#340
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#341
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that ****** is gonna lag more then you could believe.
as the boost goes up, the more and more you'll wait.
take it back to whom ever did the work and BITCH UP A STORM. they hosed you on price man, crap welds, couplers allllll over, and worst of all that 3in charge pipe is gonna make things feel like a slug.
fair warning man, take it back and MAKE them re-do it.
it'll save you lots of head aches down the road.
i'm happy you got it done, you obviously could have gone a better route, but the fact is that you paid a large sum of money to a shop that fucked allot of things up.
#342
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that ****** is gonna lag more then you could believe.
as the boost goes up, the more and more you'll wait.
take it back to whom ever did the work and BITCH UP A STORM. they hosed you on price man, crap welds, couplers allllll over, and worst of all that 3in charge pipe is gonna make things feel like a slug.
fair warning man, take it back and MAKE them re-do it.
it'll save you lots of head aches down the road.
i'm happy you got it done, you obviously could have gone a better route, but the fact is that you paid a large sum of money to a shop that fucked allot of things up.
#343
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i think that if i go back to them they will charge me to re-do it. I'm going to leave the charge piping that is from the outlet side of the intercooler to the throtle body at 3inches because its only 3 or 4 feet right there, but im going to get someone to change intercooler inlet to the turbo compressor to be the same size as the outlet of the turbo comrpessor, i think its 2 inch or 2.25 inch, cant remember
if you instructed them to use 2.5in pipe, and they did not...its there ass, not yours.
good luck.
#344
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i didnt instruct them, i figured they knew how to read instructions. I know i read them before i gave them the car and the turbo kit and it says that in their plain as day to use the same size pipe from the T comrpessor outlet to the intercooler and gradually step it up to 3inch in the engine compartment
#345
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i didnt instruct them, i figured they knew how to read instructions. I know i read them before i gave them the car and the turbo kit and it says that in their plain as day to use the same size pipe from the T comrpessor outlet to the intercooler and gradually step it up to 3inch in the engine compartment
i'd start bitchin....get that pipe redone. it'll help you out more then you think.
and it should be on there dime....not yours.
#346
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the only thing is if they tell me its going to take a day or 2 and then it ends up being 2 weeks im going to be pissed, i know of a shop that can do the change out in 2 or 3 hours because they keep charge piping in stock,..... ahhh crap, DTP dont keep charge piping in stock, they will have to order some... if they dont have it for sure im going to another shop to get it fixed.... im not going to wait on them just to save me 200 bucks
#347
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Props on the custom work! But why add the heavy chrome wheels and heavy lambo hinges (atleast the old kits used to be heavy) if your building a car for speed?? Just curious...But definalty props for going a different route.
#348
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thats good to know, i wont be able to get it fixed tomorrow because i have to work and i to work overtime tomorrow, but i already sent them an email telling em about what the instructions said to do and they didnt follow them. When i get off work tomorrow i figured out why i keep blowing apart the gasket, 2 of the 3 nuts have lock washers on them, one does not and it rattled loose. so i just bought an aluminum collector gasket and some more lock washers and tomorrow im going to fix the leak... god i hate that open header sound on our cars, sounds like a weed wacker almost
the only thing is if they tell me its going to take a day or 2 and then it ends up being 2 weeks im going to be pissed, i know of a shop that can do the change out in 2 or 3 hours because they keep charge piping in stock,..... ahhh crap, DTP dont keep charge piping in stock, they will have to order some... if they dont have it for sure im going to another shop to get it fixed.... im not going to wait on them just to save me 200 bucks
the only thing is if they tell me its going to take a day or 2 and then it ends up being 2 weeks im going to be pissed, i know of a shop that can do the change out in 2 or 3 hours because they keep charge piping in stock,..... ahhh crap, DTP dont keep charge piping in stock, they will have to order some... if they dont have it for sure im going to another shop to get it fixed.... im not going to wait on them just to save me 200 bucks
do what you gotta do i suppose....
and get the boost up, 5psi aint jack ****.
#349
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i didnt build the car for street racing (light to light) i built it to take my disputes to the strip, when on the strip i throw the stock hinges back on the car and throw my aluminum 17's back on the car... normal daily driving will be on 20's w/ lambo doors, i like attention and 20's and lambo doors do just that. Oh and they are not chrome by the way, they are aluminum to, just chrome plated
Last edited by xCobalt05x; 05-26-2008 at 09:19 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#350
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Ohhh I know im not talking about street racing lol trust me im not really into all that. But even for the track damn man thats a lot of work lol. But still like I said way to be different definatly give yah props for that!
EDIT: Oh and hah! way to go cheap on the wheels slacker!!!! haha
EDIT: Oh and hah! way to go cheap on the wheels slacker!!!! haha